Baroque Beads Bracelet-Polymer Clay Jewelry Tutorial

Baroque Beads Bracelet-Polymer Clay Jewelry Tutorial


Hi there, Sandy here. Welcome to another polymer clay jewelry video
at KeepsakeCrafts.net. Today I’m going to be showing you how to make
this bracelet with tube beads. I’ve seen a lot of designs like this floating
around Pinterest and the internet and I really wanted to make my own. There are a lot of steps, but I love the rich
textured look. So one of the things experience has taught
me is that you don’t want to just start in with making your tube beads. You actually want to start with finding your
own findings. Now there are some bead caps that simply aren’t
going to work well with this design and I have a few examples here. Like these are just far too shallow. You need something deep for all the cords
to go into and be glued into. Now your cords are going to be glued in so
I really don’t recommend any kind of filigree piece that has a lot of holes or piercings
for the glue to ooze out. Not an attractive look. You really don’t want to see those cord ends. I have seen some of these designs done with
bead cones. These are solid so the only place the glue
is going to come out is the top and the bottom and that can be wiped off. These are a little small, but maybe if you
found bigger ones, but this is what I think is ideal. It’s not cone shaped, but cylindrical so your
cord ends are going to fit right into it. Then I’ll decide what size I’m going to make
my beads based on this. Now here’s one that I already glued the cord
into, but you can see just how nicely that fits in there. Now I’ve looked at a lot of bracelets of this
design. In fact, I made a whole Pinterest board of
polymer clay tube bead bracelets and one of the looks I did not care for is when there
were just a few cords going through the tubes and they didn’t fill it completely. If the cords didn’t fill it, the tubes to
me, it just looked skimpy. So for me, I wanted to choose my cap first
and then choose a form for my tube that just barely fit into the cap. So then you can choose whatever you want for
fibers. These are hemp. I chose these three from this one and then
the teal and the chartreuse from this one. I used three yards of each for a total of
15 yards. I think if I had it to do over, I’d use four
yards of each for a total of 20 yards. I cut them into one yard lengths, folded them
in half and then folded them in half again and then tied them in the middle. Used an extra bit of cord to tie this end,
trimmed all the ends neatly and then glued them into my bead cap. Now before I did that, I added a head pin
and you can see the holes on these are big enough that the head pin goes right through. So one solution is to add a bead or some kind
of a spacer. I have this little bead cap that I actually
flattened out with a pair of pliers just like that. Pop that in there and the reason I chose this
is that that lays nice and flat in there so when my cord ends go in, they will all go
in evenly. I don’t know if that was necessary. That was just a detail I thought of, but once
you put that in there, you just put your epoxy, like a five minute epoxy in there. Tuck it in and then leave it to dry for a
good long time, until it’s completely dry. So then the next step is to choose a form
that you’re going to create your tube beads on and you can find all sorts of things. This is one of my dapping punches that just
barely fits in there. I also have this little glass vial, which
might be a little big for this project. There’s also these glass vials. They’re a Tim Holtz product, which I love
using and you might find things here or just any kind of tool that you can wrap a piece
of paper around and make a form to create your beads on. And all you do is cut strips of paper, wrap
them around the form and I like it to go around a few times so that it’s nice and rigid. Add a piece of tape right here along the seam
and then you can form your tube beads right on it. In fact, you don’t even need a form long enough
to make all the beads you want to make because you can just slide them right off like I have
here. I have a few made already. You can slide them right off and make another
one and make as many as you need. Now to make your tube beads themselves, you
have a couple of options. First you can make a base bead and then form
something else on top of it. You can see here that’s what I’ve done. I’ve got an inner core that I just made plain
and then I put the textured clay on top of it. Or like this one, I textured this clay and
then made it into a bead and it’s very simple. You just cut a couple of straight edges. I made mine somewhere between 1/2″ to 5/8″. So you cut three edges that are straight. I like to put my form back in while I’m rolling
the clay on it so that it behaves itself. And then just like any time you roll out clay,
you shape that on there. Roll it, it makes a mark. Cut just inside that mark and then you can
smooth that, use a tool if you want to smooth that seam. I like to use my blade to kind of straighten
those edges, and then bake. And here are some cores that I already baked
and then you just kind of give the, just kind of grab it. You can flex the paper away from it and just
a good tug will pull it right off. Now you can put anything you want on here. Here are a few examples from my Pinterest
board. You can put slices of mokume gane. You can put canes. You can put anything with any kind of surface
treatment that’s in sheets, but you can also sculpt on these, which I found to be kind
of fun. And what I like to do, of course you can do
yours in just a solid color, but I really like having a wide variety of colors and so
what I did was I started with these two colors. I had in mind to do teal and chartreuse, just
lately that combination has been making me really happy. So what I have here is some Wasabi by Premo
and this is Peacock Pearl. Choose like a lighter and a darker color and
then what I did was I made a blend out of these and I did something that the Polymer
Clay Tutor taught in a really great video, I will share a link to it, using pivot colors
to get a whole wide variety. She made a blend, cut it into little pieces
and then combined all of those little pieces with another color. Now I found the Wasabi and the Peacock Pearl
started to get me too much green so I used Ultra Marine Blue as my pivot color. It kind of brought this more back to blue
and by mixing little bits of colors from scrap bin with the Wasabi to Peacock Pearl blend,
I got a whole bunch of different colors. You don’t have to go through all that. You can just use a couple. I just like the richness of the look. Now for the first design, I took those colors
and I rolled them into a whole bunch of little tiny balls out of them. This is tedious. It was a good thing to do with a video playing
or listening to an audio book and I made this bead, which looks similar to one on my Pinterest
board, which I always love. It always stops me every time I come across
that. I just love this look. It’s really quite simple. It’s a little time consuming. You just want to be sure that your bead is
coated with TLS. So I could hold this and do the whole thing
at once. I used some photographer’s wax. It’s really sticky wax stuff. Went back to my original form, put a little
bit of that on there, put my bead in there and now I have a handle to hold it with and
then you just want to put a thin coat. Make sure it’s thin. If it’s too thick, things are just going to
slip and slide around and be annoying, And then just start placing dots. And that’s all there is to that. You just pop them on. Don’t over think the color placement. Just kind of pick up the next one that comes
to hand. Fiddly, but a really great textural look. So it’s my hope to inspire and encourage you
with these videos and if you’ve benefited, I hope you consider becoming a patron. You can support my tutorials with a dollar
a month or whatever you can afford and you can check out my Patreon page for details
on the rewards you’ll receive for helping out. Now this one is a variation of that one. I made little snakes of clay and made little
‘s’ curls and then in and amongst them I placed dots. And then I used a little tiny ball tool and
went through and just made a divot in each of the ball dots. And that’s another look, another kind of texture
that you get. For this one, I just rolled as thin as possible
little snakes of clay, probably a little longer than that. Coated my tube with TLS and then just started
wrapping them around, trying not to have them be too regular. And that’s a fantastic texture and very interesting. Of all the bracelets I looked at though, the
ones I liked the best were the ones that just had an embossed texture with a texture plate. Now you could do this with a solid sheet of
clay, but I always like to have a bit of variation and striation. So I rolled a log of one of my main colors
and then I just rolled a whole bunch of little snakes of some of the supporting colors and
I kind of put them around it, rolled them in so they all meld in there and then give
this a few twists and this gives you nice stripes and striations. Flatten that out, run it through the pasta
machine, fold it over, flatten it out, run it through a few times until you like the
look. Something like this, and then this you could
put on a texture plate. Now you can use rubber stamps like these. I used stamps, but I really wanted a much
deeper impression. So I picked my texture sheets that could go
through the pasta machine. You want to just spray them with a bit of
Armour All as a release and then use a paper towel and wipe up all the excess. And then go ahead and place that into the
pasta machine and it will stretch out a bit. It will get longer. I rolled this out on a two, which is the second
thickest setting on my pasta machine and then sent it back through on a two and what you’ll
end up with is something like this. So then you have your three edges square. You apply some translucent liquid Sculpey
to the core bead, wrap it around, trim it and then do take a little bit of time with
your clay smoother to just kind of smooth that seam a bit. On most of mine, if you look hard enough,
you can find the seam, but I tried to blend it enough so that it’s not real obvious. And then these you can just bake and once
they’re baked and cooled, if you like, you can add an edging. Like you can see I did here. I extruded some clay. I wish I had a half circle extruder that would
fit this size, somewhere around 4-5mm, but the closer thing I had were these triangles
and again you apply translucent liquid Sculpey to that edge. So you just go ahead and place that on and
then I’m going to overlap these two ends and use my blade to cut them both at the same
time at a bit of an angle and now remove that bit of excess on that end and that bit on
that end and they should fit together perfectly. And then like I said, I had the triangle and
not a round so I actually took a little time. I smoothed out the seams and so I kind of
blended it in with the rest of the bead where I could and then I also kind of flattened
down that point of the triangle so like on this one it’s a bit more rounded. So once your beads are baked, I like to enhance
the texture with some Gilders Paste and I did a little bit of experimenting and decided
that I wanted a bit more of a subtle look. You can see these two I’ve added some Gilders
Paste and this one I haven’t and it’s just a little bit of a difference. They just have a little bit of a glint of
something, but you could add more. So I chose a few different colors of Gilders
Paste to accent these beads. The first one I did was Patina and I applied
it all over and you can see that really brings out the texture, but honestly that was a bit
much for me. So let me know what you think of this piece. If you have ideas for variations, please share
your thoughts in the comments. We can all learn so much from each other. So what I did was I took a baby wipe and just
wiped it back and this will work fine as long as you haven’t let it dry, just to let it
have a bit more subtle of a look. Use a paper towel to dry it and then I did
the same thing with Antique Gold and African Bronze. Then if I decide it’s not enough I can always
go back and add more. So this is the configuration I decided on
after I finished all my beads and baked them. I went ahead and added my clasp here with
a jump ring. It’s nice to use a jump ring so it has a little
movement. It makes it easier to fasten. And then I also decided how long it’s going
to be and actually, this bracelet is going to end up to be about 9″ long in the end because
it’s quite bulky. So I’ve taken a spare piece of twine and I’m
just going to tie that here and now I’m going to trim this cord so it’s just long enough
to fit into this bead cap. Just cut it nice and straight across. And I’m certain I have my beads in the right
order because once you start gluing there’s really no going back. So I’m certain I’m happy with the configuration. I’ve got the length right. Kind of double check these things. And I have here some two-part epoxy that I
mixed up. Now you could use a glue like E6000 or something,
but I think the two part epoxy is really strong and I don’t want any chances of my bracelet
coming apart. That’s my kitty. He’s found me in my recording studio. You’re not going to like the two part epoxy
kitty cat. You might want to stay away. So I’m just going to kind of fill this, although
not too much because I don’t want the cords to push it out and make a mess. That’s probably good. And then I’ll just stuff these in there and
sometimes it will ooze out there, but it doesn’t, it isn’t right now so we’re good. And I’m actually going to snip this off now
because I don’t know if you can see on this end, I left the tie on and it’s kind of bunched
up and I wasn’t really happy with that look. There. Pull that off. Make sure all of those are shoved in there
nice and tight and then leave it to dry for as long as you need and then on this end of
course you’ll add a chain to finish the clasp and to finish your bracelet. So if you’re interested in the supplies I
used, click on the little “i” that’s over there in the upper right or the link in the
description box to go to my blog post. And be sure to subscribe if you haven’t already. Take a look at my Patreon page for how you
can get great rewards and help support these tutorials. Happy creating. Bye bye.

33 Comments

  1. Hi there,I don't normally like very chunky beaded bracelets,,, but this one is really beautiful,and you have inspired me to make this bracelet,,it just goes to show what can be made out of a few things that you may have,,,the idea of making the tube beads the way you did is an awesome idea,as I have polymers clay, and make beaded bracelets myself,as I got a bulk selection of beads before the holiday,,thankyou so much for sharing, have a great evening🌹🌻🌺🌹🌻🌺

  2. This is fabulous! I love the colors you chose to work with, the personally designed, handmade beads and the supplemental materials. The end product is so stunning. Your creative vision to "see" a project, break it down into easy steps is so valuable to your audience. Thanks for sharing!

  3. I loved the design, I think that if your happy with the length of the piece it would be a great idea to use the apoxie to glue the ends first and once they were dry to apoxie it into the cap ends next this way you will be sure of all the cords used are coated in the glue and the center strings will not fall out over time as this has happened with one I bought a few years ago.

  4. I've been playing around with making my own cord ends – in that round shape – by using a circle of clay (not too thin, not too thick, maybe about a setting of 3) wrapped over the end of my exacto knife. Cone ends could be made using a paint brush. Once you get the shape and length, trim, and make the hole while still on your base (the knife in my case), so you have something to press against. If your knife or base is smooth, you can also use it to make the tube beads, so the beads are the same diameter as the cord end. I made my holes with a small knitting needle, just big enough for an eye pin or head pin to fit through. I do like the idea of the flattened bead cap, because it would provide a bit of tooth for the glue to hold onto when gluing the cords into it.

  5. Thank you Sandy loved your video… Looking forward to trying these beads for a necklace. I do a lot of jewelry with clay… Love the multi cord look..
    http://www.etsy.com/shop/BobblesByCarol

  6. I was really happy you talked about findings. That's the part of jewelry making that is most difficult for me. What a Beautiful color combination! A lovely Design. Thanks

  7. Hi Sandy. Your video inspired me to make tube beads and hopefully soon, jewellery with them, like your great bracelet. . Since I mentioned that in my blogpost about that, wanted to share the link http://heartfullycreating.blogspot.ca/2017/05/polymer-clay-journey-making-large-holed.html

  8. Hi Sandy. Love this video. Beautiful beads. I tried your wonderful idea for the paper cores but mine stuck to the clay and I couldn't remove them. Do you have any suggestions please?

  9. I am making one of these beads to add to a wire crocheted piece of jewelry I made, so I constructed a tube approx. 5/8" in diameter but only 1/8" in thickness. I followed all the baking tips such as oven thermometer, tenting my beads, and leaving it in the oven while it cooled. I had a hard time getting them off the paper roll, and they broke easily. I am going to try again….any suggestions for better results?

  10. I really enjoyed this video. I couldn’t find your Pinterest Tube Bead Board which looked interesting. Thank you for your easy going teaching style!

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