Crimson Waves Bracelet-Chan Luu Style Beaded Jewelry Beading Tutorial

Crimson Waves Bracelet-Chan Luu Style Beaded Jewelry Beading Tutorial


The Chan Luu style wrap bracelets are fun
to wear and pretty easy to make. I even did a video on one a while back, but when
I got a new jig to experiment with I thought I would try to take it up to the
next level and make a wave style bracelet. Hi there, Sandy here, welcome to another jewelry making video at
keepsakecrafts.net. So you may remember a while back I made a video showing you
how to make this quintuple wrap bracelet. It’s pretty easy to do, it’s a little
time-consuming but I love wearing this. I just love the kind of boho look, I think
it’s cool. I even made another one that’s a double wrap and I wear both of these a
lot, but way back then when I was looking for inspiration I remembered seeing
bracelets that had a wave to them where the elements weren’t all the same width
or even close and I wondered if I could replicate that especially once I got
this jig from the folks at speedy jig it occurred to me this might make it easier. So I did quite a bit of experimenting with that, it took a bit of figuring
because the wave is actually pretty tricky to get well and I’m gonna show
you what I learned today. So it starts off the exact same way this bracelet
does with some cord, now since I used leather cord… I’ve made I think three of
these, one was for a friend, and these two, I wanted to try something different
and I thought hemp cord would be cool and I thought it would be fun to have it
in colors because one thing I liked about this bracelet was I used a pink
silk cord to do the wrapping and I liked having that pink edging on the bracelet. The only silk cord I have at the moment is black so I thought, well, if I use the
color then I’ll get that same contrast. Here’s one I started with that and I
can’t say that I really liked it, I think there’s something about that thicker
leather cord that just gives the beads a nice frame
and finishes it and this just looked well, thin, which it is, Thin and insubstantial and I didn’t love it so I went back to the leather cord. So it’s
black on black, oh well. So what you want to do is first of all decide how many
wraps you want to do, then you measure your wrist. Seven inches is an average
bracelet, take your bracelet measurement, multiply it by the number of wraps you
want, add six inches and then double it. So I’m making a single wrap that seven,
plus six is thirteen, doubled is twenty six. I have a twenty six maybe slightly
longer piece of leather cord here and you can find this in other colors I just
don’t happen to have any other colors at the moment, and for your closure a shank
button is great, you can also use one that, as long as it has at least two
holes. I love taking the opportunity to go
through my button boxes because I inherited them from my grandmother, my
mother-in-law, I even got some from my neighbor, so I’ve got all kinds of cool
buttons. So just slide your button onto your cord, slide it down to the end, to
the middle, and then go ahead and do just an overhand knot so that you have a knot
there and pull that knot all the way to the button. Simple enough. Now take yourself… depending
on, if you’re making a really long wrap bracelet don’t pull out yards and yards
of thread, it’ll make you crazy. I’m going to do about two yards of thread here. Since I’m doing a single wrap I don’t
want to have to put on a new piece and if you want to learn more about putting
on a new piece like on this bracelet the multiple wraps, what I did… let’s see if I can find it,
somewhere in the middle I had to change threads and what I did was I just
covered it all with a bunch of jump rings.
I think adds an interesting textural element and some movement and covers
that spot, but you may find…. I was kind of aggravated with this project by the time
I got done with it and I’m really not done with it yet,
and I found I had absolutely no desire to do more than one wrap in this pattern. It was it was really tricky and I’ll tell you more about that as I go along. These are big eye needles, I’ll have a link to these, they’re fantastic because
they’re so easy to thread because they have that big eye. So thread your needle and
then to start I’m just going to take maybe half inch of the thread, lay it
facing the other cut ends of your cord but right up against that knot and then
start wrapping and just wrap maybe a quarter of an inch, just a little, a
little bit and then use a quick drying glue like superglue. This would actually
be a good place for not the gel. I like this gel for my polymer clay work
because it doesn’t drip and ooze but actually something like super new glue
that’s very liquid and will soak in is great and then just go ahead and let
that dry, set it aside and let it dry before you continue. Now for design. So I
thought I would be real clever and lay out my design using head pins. I had this
great picture in mind of using some Czech glass beads and some of these
beads… and this got all messed up, I’ll show you this in a moment, and I just
thought, oh that will be cool. I’ll gradually build up the design, build up
the length and and gradually go back down and have this really great design. This did not work at all. The reason this didn’t work is there are too many beads
and there was too much opportunity for things to buckle
and flop. If you look at this sample I made earlier you’ll notice that
what I ended up going with was no more than three beads in a row because it
just starts to buckle and and causes problems. So once I figured that I took
that all apart and I didn’t think it was a bad idea to lay them out on head pins
because then you see exactly how long each row is but it just didn’t work with
the amount of beads I was using. And then I said, all right, fine I’ll use less beads
in my rows. I won’t use all of the little bitty beads. So then I pulled out these
these beads and I really love these colors, the chartreuse with this kind of
deep turquoise, I said okay well then I will use less beads, bigger beads and try
to more carefully manage the amount of space in between them, so something like
this, but what I found the problem was these beads because when they are
suspended they’re going to turn like this, you’re never going to get nice
spacing if you think about it. I ended up pulling it apart because it just made a
mess, it just didn’t look good, you have this huge gap from here to here, it just
didn’t work, and here are a few other things I considered. So I looked at these
which I thought would be gorgeous but again the same problem, they’re going to
turn sideways on you, they’re not going to stay like this, and they just make a
huge gap from one hole to the next which is how your cord is going to span, it
just makes a huge gap it doesn’t look good. So what I recommend is round beads
and you could use something like this, so round beads are good, or even slightly
oval or barrel shaped beads, as long as they’re round this way they will work. Even some of these maybe smaller ones would work except the problem with these
is that my my little beads I was using as spacers slipped right through and I
didn’t want to use all of my nice 8/0’s to fill the holes of the beads. Cubes would also be good, something that’s symmetrical around when you’re
looking at it from the hole down, that it’s symmetrical all the way around. So a
cube is good, a barrel bead and kind of an elongated oval looks nice or a round. The other thing I found that was important was having nice gradual steps
in between the sizes of your beads. So I pulled out these round ones and these
kind of oval ones, these are both Czech fire polish and then these are round
rondelles and filled in with some of these little brass beads, and you can
see there’s a very gradual increase and decrease in size here, and that is what I
found works best. Most of the time that I’ve spent in planning this project was
in trying to find an assortment of beads that worked in colors together and also
worked in size. You can do this on any, any space, you can do it on a board. I
loved using the jig for this, especially for doing the wave, and what I have here…
Let’s see, that’s dry by now while I’ve been yakking, so I’ll just trim off, make sure you’re on the trimming off the short end not
the long one. What I have here to hook on my, to keep my piece on the jig I got just a
couple of binder clips, bulldog clips, and I’m gonna put this over the shank so
that it holds it securely because otherwise it’ll pop right off, and
actually that, I’m going to place these on either side of that little tab, bring those together, just make sure
they’re clamped together, then this is one thing I like about the jig is I can
now back it up to that and have some tension on it. That’s great. To do the
weaving you’re just going to come up from one side underneath the leather
cord and in through the middle. So in this case I’ll start with one of my
brass beads and of course the first one’s always a
pain because you’ve got this tiny space to fit it in, just kind of hold it there
with the thumb of one hand while you bring your needle under and up through
the middle and then back through the bead. Now here’s a step that is very
important and worth taking your time on: You do not want to split this thread, if
you do it will be impossible to tighten it up properly, so pinch it on either
side of the bead between your thumb and index finger so that you’re pulling it
away from the hole, then you should be able to slide your needle through the
other side of the hole and not pierce the thread. Now you can test if you
pierce the thread by just pulling this and making sure the bead slides on it
and if it does then you did good, and a very helpful tool here is an awl. Put
your awl in that loop and then you can just pull and that will snug it up and
then there it is in that space. So I really like the technique of having a
few smallish beads so that will help me to gradually build up my height of each
row. Again, under and up through the middle of the cords, add a bead. I’m
going to this time add two of these beads, do the same thing, kind of position
that in there with your thumb, up and under and through the middle, and let me show you what happens if
you’re not careful with these and you pierce the thread. When I try to pull
this it it will hardly move, it’s well, now it’s moving but I can feel and you
can probably see that thread’s getting ragged. I kind of caught some of it and
it shredded it before it pulled it off so it isn’t, it was only barely split. If you split it really well you won’t be able to move it at all, but you really
don’t want to make your thread ragged like that. That doesn’t look nice, so it
really is worth it. It takes a little bit longer to do each stitch as
it were, but it’s worth it to keep your thread in good shape. Again put your
awl in there and that just makes it so much easier. If you have to… like there’s
an extra loop up here so that didn’t tighten and that will happen, and that’s
the beauty I think of having the jig here. My other ones I made without the
jig and they weren’t hard but this is so much easier just slide that down here. All
right, the next row I’m going to do three of these and it’s all done in the exact
same way. So, so many of you have told me that you enjoy my tutorials that you
like my teaching and I’m just thrilled to pieces about that because my goal is
to inspire and encourage you. So, yeah, I give you projects that you can make and
copy but it’s my hope that you’ll get ideas that will spark new ideas for
yourself they help you to improve your creativity. This band-aid’s not helping. Errrr, cut it out, stop that! Okay, and if you’re interested in even
more of my teaching, if you’d like to get even more my patrons can have the
opportunity to get up to two additional tutorials every month. Those are bonuses that are only available to the folks who support me on
patreon and if you want to learn more about that go ahead and check out
Patreon.com/sandysewin. And if you’re wondering why it’s not sandy beadin’ or
sandy jewelry-makin’, sewing is kind of my first love. I’ve always done that and
I always kind of go back to it. I remember when I was scrapbooking I
thought of changing the name to sandy scrappin’ but I decided to leave it at
sandysewin because I really do always go back to that, and no matter how many
jewelry and polymer clay tutorials I make every year I always find the time
to sew a little something. So you can see here how nice it is to have some sort of
jig just to hold that in place for you while you work on it. Now we’re going to
start adding the beads my smallest one and add a brass bead on either side, so
don’t forget, up through the middle, because this has a little bit bigger side
profile than one of those, and this took, like I said, a bit of
experimenting and playing and you’ll have to do that with your beads, too. I
pulled out several bracelets because they were just, yeah they weren’t working
and I really did find that with more than three beads they just flopped too
much. And by the way, if you’re interested in the supplies I used I don’t have
links to everything like the big round beads that I’m using have been in my
stash for ages, a friend gave them to me a long time ago so I have no idea where
those came from. I don’t know if you know that with every
tutorial I make I write a blog post and in that blog post is always a tools and
materials list and I put links to as many of the products as I can find links
to, and yes, most of those if I can get them are affiliate links so I may make…
if you buy something I may make a few cents on the purchase but I can almost
guarantee that money will go back into buying more crafty supplies. That is one
way you can support this channel if you can’t be a patron, and I know not
everybody can, is to purchase things through the affiliate links, or just go
check them out before you decide to place a purchase on Amazon and I
actually get credit for that. I’m not sure the exact time frame but if you’re
interested make sure you click on the tag in the upper right or there’s always
a link in the description box or there’s always a link and the bottom left in the
last 20 seconds of the video. So you can see as I’m going here I’m just adjusting and you may find as it gets wider that
what you’ll have to do is loosen this up just a little because it’s spreading it
out and so you need a little bit more so that’s another thing I really loved
about having the jig with this. If I had it
just taped to my workspace I’d have to keep untaping it and re taping it and
so this I just loosened the wingnut, slide it down a little. So you can see I
carefully chose the beads. I had so many different color combinations I wanted to
do and I ended up using these ones mostly because they were the ones that I
had that were graduated enough in size to work and even this is actually a
little, is a little this kind of a big jump between this one and the next one
as you’ll see. You can see how handy it is using the awl there and just kind
of try to keep making these straight and you’re not gonna be able to get it right
up against it because that bead is wider so you’re going to have a gap and the
question you have to ask yourself is how much of a gap is acceptable? I tell you I
have been looking for a way to use these beads for years since my friend gave
them to me. I just love them they’re so… juicy looking, they’re just beautiful. I
think something about that matte finish I really like and I’ve pulled them out
for so many projects over the years and it was always, nope, put them back and
use something else. I think they’re gonna work for this though. Now you
notice with every single bead I’m testing, I’m pulling the thread away and
that’s because if you don’t i,f you split it and you pull your needle all the way
through before you discover that then what you have to do is unthread the
needle, pull the whole thing back out and then redo it. Now here you can see
because this one is kind of a biggish bead and maybe a bigger step if I had
one in between that might have been good, there is a bit more of a gap here. You
just have to decide with your own experimenting if that works for you or
not. Now I’m going to start decreasing again,
just following the same pattern and what you may need to do as you’re decreasing
is actually tighten this up a little bit because you’re going to be using a
little less cord as you decrease it. Here’s one that’s a little further along
and you can see this great wave pattern you get which I think is cool and I
think it’s really important that you have a heftier cord here that shows that
off. So at this point you’re just going to continue your pattern until your
bracelet is the length you want from the center of your button shank to the end
make it the length you want. So here you can see I’ve finished my repeat. Now it
may not work out exactly to the right length, mine happen to, if not you can
just kind of fake it at the end. Do a couple more repeats, add a few more
beads, you know, maybe go to 1, 2 with the brass beads or whatever. Just kind of
fake a pattern at the end. Now you can stop here if you want and finish your
bracelet, but I’ve also figured out how we can add
a border which only enhances the shape and frames all of this out really nicely. So if you want to add a frame what you’ll need is another piece of your
cord the same length and what I did here was I went in with my awl and just kind
of opened out this knot. Now if you find that impossible you can do a couple
things, you can try sliding the cord through the shank again I wouldn’t knot
over this again just because it’ll make it kind of bulky unless you’re using
something finer like the hemp but there. I’ve opened up a hole in that knot that
I can slide this leather cord through. That way I don’t need to knot it and
it’s, it’s secure in there. You can also, if you’re using a finer cord, you can
just tie a knot around that one. And then I’ll pull this tight again. The next thing I’m going to do is attach another length of my silk cord in the
exact same way. I’ll just go over all of these add a dab of glue and now I’m
read,y to begin my frame. I’ve gone ahead and done one side of this. You can see
how much it adds, it just looks really great. I would strongly recommend when
you’re doing this that you have the side with the new cord on the side where
you’re doing the loops. What I mean is if you’re right-handed you would have it on
the right side, that you’re coming, going through your bead first from the left to
right and then you go up and under and have these loops on the outside cord,
whichever side that ends up being because it’s much easier to grab ahold
of them with your awl and adjust the tension if it’s on the outside cord, if
it’s on the inside it’s just going to get caught on it on all this and be in
the way. So what I’m going to do now is loosen this a little and just go ahead
and flip the whole thing around. No, I haven’t finished any of my ends up here
because at the end I want to be able to maybe pull some of these leather cords
if I feel I need to adjust the tension. I may want to stitch in another bead or so
on one end so I’m leaving all this mess up here. Now I’ve got that flipped
around and I can tighten this back out again you’re going to attach a piece of
your silk cord the exact same way by wrapping and gluing. And I actually ended
up using two different beads on here because I realized I didn’t have enough
of the ones I started with but you can hardly tell. And I once I realized that I
saved out half of these little Czech glass beads and I’ll put those on the
end and I don’t think it’ll really be noticeable. So I’ve got the bracelet flipped,
my thread attached and I want to just take this final piece of leather cord
and add it up here like all the other ones. It may require adjusting, it’s done
the exact same way that you did the rest of it, it’s just an additional row. So I’m
going to just come up anywhere in here. You just have a couple other things to
think about as you’re doing your stitching or weaving or whatever you
want to call it, and that is the position of these center rows, you want to try to
keep them straight. Let’s see I want to go maybe down there right before that
first bead on the inner, the middle row, and then just like before come under and
up, under that leather cord and up through between the two and then the
same on this side, under and up through in between the two
and back through the bead. And I’m just gonna take a look at my rows here. See
how this is slanting up? I just want to take a moment and tuck it down and also
take a look at what the spacing decisions I made on the first outer row
and kind of try to match that. So I’ll go down let’s say I started with that one,
so I’ll go down here between those first two rows and again up through the middle
I got the bead underneath the outside one and up through the middle and I’m
still checking for splitting and with the exception of the fact that your, one
of your cords already has beads on it and you have to kind of pay attention to
how you’re spacing them, other than that it’s really the exact same thing, and
that’s all you do. You just carry on doing the same
stitching, adjusting these center rows to try to make them going kind of straight
across, and straight across instead of slanted. You stitch all the way up to
the other end adjusting the jig as you need to along the way to keep your
tension as even as you can manage, but we will have a final opportunity to
adjust the tension at the very end. Now if you find that you are running out of
thread and you need to tie a knot you want to stop when you’re adjacent to one
of these rows of beads. That way you can make a knot and go through it. So I’m
going to go through right here and place a knot right before that brass bead so
just right there, and then I’ll go through these you can pull it through
and then make another knot over here on this side just like you did on the first
side. If you want to add a tiny, tiny, tiny dab of glue you can do that. Well, I don’t want to add glue there
actually. I don’t want to glue this loop to the cord so I think I’m gonna not do
that for my knot .I think I’ll just leave that end and I’ll remember when I’m done
that I want to go back and add a dab of glue there, once I have everything the
right tension and positioned the way I want it. And then you just tie on a new one the same way, running through, maybe I’ll run
through this one and then down to here with a couple of knots and leaving the
tail for later to finish off at the very end. So that’s took quite a while! But I
finally finished all the stitching and I’m really happy with the way it looks.
I’m glad I persevered with that outer border because I think it just adds so
much. Now your center beads may not be lying the way you want them to at this
point, and we left all these tails, didn’t tie anything tight so that what we can
do at this point is just start kind of loosening things up a little bit because the reason they’re not lying flat is that they were pulled tight
just by the tension that we put on the outer ones. So you just start at this end
and I know this is a lumpy mess. I had, I had one of mine when I went to take the
binder clip off it was wrapped around the binder clip which I had to pull
apart so that’s a little messy but this isn’t really going to be visible, it’ll
be under the button and then under the loop for your closure but you might
attempt to do a slightly neater job than I did here. So I’m just kind of pulling
sideways starting down at this end where we started and then working my way down. And then I don’t know if you can see
but I can feel it moving and see how that’s lying much more nicely than
this one, and so you just kind of keep working your way down. This is why we
didn’t want to glue the these ends in. I realized that as I was saying it, because
I wanted the leather to slide inside these loops of the silk thread. Just about there, there now that’s that’s
much nicer. So now what I’m going to do is find all
of my thread ends, not the leather but just the thread, and make sure and pull those up neatly. So you should have at this point three thread ends and four leather ends, and I’m
just going to pull them all so they’re neat and
we’ll gather them all together, trim off some of this excess. At this point now we can, once you’re
sure everything is arranged the way you want it go ahead and gather those all together, just do an overhand knot with all three and to guide that knot, you want it
right there at that point, just tuck your awl in and pull it tight around there. Next I’m going to gather everything here, all of the threads and all of the cords
and repeat to make an overhand knot so this finishes these thread ends nicely Again an awl is just a wonderful tool to get a nice tidy knot exactly where you
want it. You may have to pull all of your cords, your leather cords, individually to
tighten it up. At this point I would add a drop of glue right there and then once
those dry I can snip off the excess and then to finish your closure
take the longest two of these cords, snip off the shortest two because you have
that bit of glue in there, tie another overhand knot and this time you want to
refer back to your button and make sure that you’re leaving just a big enough
loop for that to fit through. Let’s scoot that down a little bit. This next step is optional but what I
like to do is make one more loop and that makes your a bracelet adjustable. Pull those snug, snip off those ends and
of course as I mentioned before, now you can add a dab of glue to these
ends where you had to change the thread in the middle, let it dry and trim the
excess and you’re all done. It’s kind of a time-consuming project but I think the
waves just add an element of fun. Thanks for watching, happy creating,
bye bye.

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