Delta Multichoice Valve Installation Tips (Copper Pipe Edition)

Delta Multichoice Valve Installation Tips (Copper Pipe Edition)


So today we’re going to go over the Delta
MultiChoice rough-in valve for bathtubs and showers.
Now, we’re outside because it’s beautiful in Pittsburgh today, so I couldn’t pass
that up. We’re going to give you a ton of different
tips on how to use this with copper. We’re going to share the different tools and materials
that make this much, much easier to install in your bathroom.
So right off the bat, this is the MultiChoice rough-in valve by Delta. You have four different
ports. You have your hot, your cold; you have your stub-out port for your tub—you can
also block this off if you’re just going to be using it for a shower—and then you
have your top port that’s going to go to the showerhead. So this is the Delta MultiChoice
rough-in valve. And the model number on this is R10000-UNWS, which basically means it’s
universal with stops. You get a plaster guard with it, which we’ll
go over. These are all the supplies that you need if you’re going to be using copper
with this. So this is the Ridgid No. 15 cutting tool.
This is the AutoCut tool, which we really, really like. You’ve got emery. You’ve
got your brush for cleaning out both the exterior and the interior of fittings and pipe. So
you need some copper pipe here. Obviously, you need to have more copper pipe than this.
This is a stub-out for the tub spout—we’ll go over that and how to use it. You need at
least three 90° elbows. And depending on the trim kit that you choose, you may need
a brass threaded pipe like this. You’ll need a drop elbow for at least your shower
arm which connects to your showerhead. You’re going to need solder. You’re going to need
flux. In this case, this is LA-CO Flux. You’ll need an acid brush. Teflon tape, possibly.
This is an end stop; it’s a SharkBite end stop. This is a brass cap that you might need
if you’re only using the MultiChoice for a shower. This is a homemade stop for the
bottom port. Again, only if you’re using a shower and not having any other diverters.
You’ll need a little, tiny level. This is our favorite, little 4-inch level from Husky.
Measuring tape. If you don’t want to buy the solder and flux individually, you can
get this really cool Oatey plumbing solder kit. We use Map gas. So again, you can buy
this at a home store or plumbing supply warehouse. And then finally, the BernzOmatic TS4000.
This is a really nifty on/off switch, basically, for your Map gas so it makes it easier to
solder. But again, those are most of the supplies that you need with the MultiChoice if you’re
going to be using copper pipe. So a common question you might have is: “Can
I use the MultiChoice for a bathtub or a shower?” And the answer is yes. You can use this for
both a bathtub and a shower. So as you can see, I created a little mock-up
behind me that somewhat mimics the bathtub or a shower wall. Now, the main thing to know
is: number one, all shower stud walls should be 16 inches on center for most backer boards—so
cement board, WEDI, KERDI-Board, GoBoard, you name it. All the different backer boards
that are out there—HYDRO BAN Board—they all require the studs to be 16 inches on center.
So that’s really the first thing that we check before we install any type of rough-in
valve. Number two: you need to know the depth that
this needs to sit inside the wall, and Delta has specific recommendations on that. Now,
why is the depth of the Delta MultiChoice so darn important? Well, it’s important
because if you set it too deep, you won’t be able to properly put the trim kit on. If
you set it too far outside the wall, the trim kit is also going to look really bad. So the
depth is really important with any rough-in valve and also with the MultiChoice.
Now, most bathrooms are made out of 2x4s. We’ve encountered several bathrooms in Pittsburgh
that are not 2x4s, so take that with a grain of salt. Just make sure you measure the depth
of the framing in your bathroom. But if you have a typical 2×4 stud wall, the great thing
about the MultiChoice is you just need to use another 2x material inside the wall for
your blocking. So this is a 2×10. What you would want to do is simply mount this inside
the wall and make it flush with the plaster or the drywall on the other side of the bathroom.
And that will give you the depth that you need for the MultiChoice which is 2 ¾”
from the blocking to the plaster guard, which we’ll show you here in a second, plus or
minus ¼”. So you need 2 ¾” +/- ¼” for that depth to work for the MultiChoice.
We have our blocking inside the wall here, and you would simply mount the MultiChoice
to this and you’re done. But the thing to remember is this comes with a plaster guard.
So this is the plaster guard. As you can see, there are these like little
hooks right here and right here. Those go onto the back of the rough-in valve. There’s
a footprint on the back of this plaster guard. Makes it pretty straightforward to hook it
onto the MultiChoice. So basically you just fit the MultiChoice into the footprint, and
you push it until you hear the click. And these little hooks notch into the back here
and hold it in place. So that’s all you need to do to put the
plaster guard onto the rough-in valve. But it’s really, really important for this to
be on there. And there’s an “up” insignia on the plaster guard—not sure if you can
see that. But it says “up.” And then on the back of the MultiChoice, it says “up”
with two arrows to emphasize: “Look, this needs to be pointing in the upward position.”
So that when you turn it around, and these look like this inside the wall.
So we temporarily mounted this to our blocking in the wall, and you have to remove the plaster
guard to do that. But the reason why is we want to show you why the depth is so important.
We’re going to put this plaster guard back on.
When you put the measuring tape onto the wood blocking here and you go out to the front
endge of this plaster guard, the total measurement is 2 11/16”, and that’s within the +/-
¼” of the 2 ¾” depth that Delta recommends for the MultiChoice.
So the bottom line is don’t freak out if the MultiChoice isn’t exactly 2 ¾” in
depth with the plaster guard and the wood blocking. You can also add additional wood
to the blocking that you already added inside your wall. So if you’ve got some ¼” Luan,
you can add that. You can take the 2x material out and you can add plywood. You’ve got
a lot of different options to make up for that depth.
And by the way, this is one reason why you wouldn’t ever want to tile over tile. Because
if you tile over the existing tile and you go to put the trim kit back on, it may not
work. And then what do you do? You’re kind of stuck. There are many reasons why we would
never tile over tile. The rough-in valve is just one of them.
Okay, so the next step after taking care of the depth of the MultiChoice is to determine
the length of pipe running from the bottom port down to the tub spout. Now, Delta recommends
8 to 18 inches in their instructions, so you have some variability there. What should you
choose? Well, between 8 and 18 inches, it’s up to you.
There are two different types of tools that we like for cutting copper pipes. This is
the AutoCut tool. You have to get one for ½” copper, and there’s another one for
¾” copper. But you basically open it up and then there’s an arrow on it that shows
you the direction that you need to turn it to cut the copper pipe. Really nifty little
tool. And it’s great for tight spots. The other pipe cutter that I really like is
the Ridgid No. 15. This is great. It’ll last forever. And it’ll cut anywhere from
3/16 to 1 1/8” copper. The other great thing is there’s a deburring tool on it, and you’re
going to need this to deburr the inside of the copper piping. And they have an extra
cutting wheel in the handle. So this is a great tool if tight spots aren’t an issue
for you. So we’re just going to use the AutoCut tool
and the reason why is I wanted to show you how easy this is to use. Now, it probably
needs a new cutting wheel at this point. But basically you just turn it in the direction
of the arrow, and in a few seconds, you have a nice, cut pipe.
So in this case, this is an old pipe, we’re just going to go ahead and deburr it using
the Ridgid No. 15. It’s also good to use a pipe brush. This
cleans the inside of the copper pipe. And you can also use this to clean the outside
of the copper pipe. Now, another option is to use emery cloth.
So, simply just clean about the first 1” of the copper pipe. And it’s good not to
touch this with your finger after cleaning it because the oil and the dirt on your finger
could interfere with the flux and the soldering process.
At a minimum, three 90° elbows are typically used for most of our projects. And each side
of the fitting should be cleaned and shouldn’t be touched afterward. And you just want to
double-check that the fittings work. And then every single port that you’re going
to solder with the copper, you want to go ahead and use emery cloth or a brush to abrade
the inside of that as well. It never hurts to use compressed air or blow
any of the dust out of these ports because you don’t want that to interfere with the
flux and the solder. Before you go soldering anything to the MultiChoice,
take the plaster guard off. You don’t want any of the stops in because the stops have
rubber seals on them that’ll melt. You want to take the bonnet nut off and this plug out
because this plug will melt too. There is a screen inside the MultiChoice to
prevent mineral deposits from going up to the showerhead and clogging it, you can leave
the screen in here when soldering copper to the brass. But don’t overheat this too much;
otherwise, you run the risk of the heat transferring over to this part of the valve and melting
the plastic. You have to flux the inside of the MultiChoice
and the copper. Once that is fluxed, you can then put the copper pipe up into the MultiChoice.
You can heat this up with Map gas and apply solder until the pipes are totally soldered
and good to go. Now, you don’t have to do this inside your stud wall. In fact, we recommend
not doing this inside your stud wall, but rather doing it outside so that you don’t
run the risk of catching anything on fire. When it comes to the tub spout portion, you
have a few different options. You can use one of these plugs, one of these kind of stub
outs, and you can solder this in place. And then that way when you pressurize the system,
you’ll be able to not have to worry about this part. And when you put on your actual
tub spout for your trim kit, you can cut this off to the right size or the right dimension.
Another option is to use what are called SharkBite end stops. I’ll show you how these work.
These are really cool. One side is an end stop, and then the other side is a SharkBite
fitting. And there’s a little tube in here. You don’t have to remove that. We get that
question a lot. There’s a rubber gasket in here, and basically it clamps onto your
copper pipe. So it’s really, really easy to use. Basically, you just take your copper
pipe, and you push it on the entire way. You would want to do this after soldering. So
once you’re done soldering, your setup would look like this. So that’s a really easy
way to cap your copper pipe. And we would recommend you keep this piece of copper pipe
about 8, 9 inches. Again, that way you can cut this off to the length that you need for
your tub spout. Two things about this pipe here. Number one,
it should not be loose. You should try to make this as ridged as possible. So it wouldn’t
hurt to have blocking behind this and to attach this copper pipe to the blocking using a copper
strap. Number two, you never want to use PEX or any other pipe other than copper for this
run of pipe and for the spout portion. Delta says that. Many other companies say that.
So only use copper for the bottom port and the tub spout. And then number three, this
horizontal run of pipe should be lined up with the tub drain. So let me repeat that.
This horizontal copper pipe should be perfectly lined up with the tub drain. So, you want
to do that, obviously, before you solder everything in place. So you’re going to want to make
sure that this pipe runs down and out and as straight and parallel as possible with
the tub drain. Because that way, your actual trim tub spout will fit nice and flush to
the finish wall. Another option that you have for this section
of the pipe that goes to the tub spout is to use a drop elbow. So a drop elbow, basically,
you can use it for either the tub spout or for your shower arm for your showerhead. But
the nice thing is if you want to use a threaded piece of pipe, you can use the drop elbow
at this spot here. You just solder it onto the copper pipe. So instead of using a 90°
elbow, you can use this fitting. This rough-in valve should be centered on
the tub drain. Now if you’re installing a shower, it depends on where that drain is
located. But if it’s in the center of the shower, you want to try to make this rough-in
valve centered on that drain. The other thing is you want this rough-in valve to be level.
So you’re going to use the plaster guard to ensure that it’s level. But once you
get it centered on your drain, so for example if it is a tub and it’s a 32-inch wide tub,
you want to center this at 16 inches , you’re going to screw it into the blocking. But don’t
use drywall screws. Try to use something better, like galvanized screws or stainless steel
screws because, after all, this is a wet area. And drywall screws generally suck for bathrooms
other than installing drywall. The easiest thing to do is just to use one
screw to get this slightly secured to the blocking. Once the plaster guard is put back
on, then you can use a torpedo level or a little level like this one from Husky, which
is awesome, to make sure that this is nice and level. Now, as you can see we’re a little
bit off. So we’re just going to adjust that. Oops, too much.
So once we have it level, take that off. Carefully take the plaster guard off. Then you can add
your second screw. Put the plaster guard back on and just double-check that everything remain
level. Now, typically we don’t install the rough-in
valve to the blocking until after all the copper pipes have been soldered to it. So
the hot water, the cold water supply, and then the pipes going down to the tub spout.
Now, one of the things that you do want to do is use a copper strap up against the blocking
to secure this bottom portion of the tub spout. The other thing is if you’re only going
to use a MultiChoice for a shower, you can cap off the bottom port using copper and a
copper cap. The second way to do that is with a brass plug. Now, if you install the MultiChoice
but forgot to add Teflon tape to this bottom port, here’s a little hack for you. You
can add Teflon tape to the top of a pencil and simply wrap the Teflon tape off of the
pencil top and onto the bottom port. And that way, you’ll have a nice, water-tight seal.
So this is only if you forget to add Teflon tape to the MultiChoice after the MultiChoise
is secured to the blocking. And then you can add your cap to the bottom port. So again,
this is a nice little hack because there’s really not a lot of space between the MultiChoice
and the wood blocking in the wall that it’s supported onto.
The tips in this video shared how to use copper with the Delta MultiChoice, but you can also
use PEX. So in a future video, we’ll give you tips on how to do that.
Now remember, if you’re doing a bathroom remodel or you’re doing bathroom remodeling,
definitely check out bathroomrepairtutor.com. It’s phenomenal. You’ll love our step-by-step
video tutorials. You won’t be disappointed. Check out bathroomrepaitutor.com.
Thanks for watching today, and we’ll see you soon.

12 Comments

  1. Haha… Saw you last week at Trader Joe's, but didn't want to bother you, but great channel and great information!

  2. Holy Cow!!! Bucket loads of knowledge on this one. The pencil hack is absolutely fantastic!! Hope all is well, and Dirty Jersey out!!!

  3. Your beard grows fast as shit
    You had a five o clock shadow in the beginning of video and a
    full beard at the end

  4. Great video. Would love to see a video on how to integrate the Kerdi membrane with the Delta Multichoice.

  5. You can't use 1/2 pex for the tub spout but you can use 3/4 pex pipe for the tub spout with a drop ear fitting and 1/2 threaded brass or galvanized nipple for the tub spout.

  6. Please tell me that it is lead free!!! LEAD FREE!! And how about a shower head but so that it rains on you… and a hand held shower head!!!! It makes washing the shower a whole lot easy!!! WTF does it come in sooo many flavors!!! It NEEDS TO BE PRACTICAL!!! Efficient is elegant only when it is simple!!! I want to slam this shit across the dumb asses who design shit with the full intention of it breaking within a “moment” of you installing!!! That’s is all buy whatever the english Germans sell!!! Thanks anyways.

  7. Excellent video. Very informative! When you mentioned the setback/position or depth of the valve you didn’t mention that Delta has a different setback if you are doing a “THIN” wall. A “THIN” wall is one that is drywall only. I had to have a valve replaced last year and they replaced it with the exact valve you used in the demo. The bathroom has a separate shower and a separate tub. There is a single horizontal row of 12 x 12 tile above the tub which the spout goes through but there is not any tile where the valve is mounted. (Delta does have a note and instructions for a “THIN” wall….) Instead of using a 2×4, etc to mount it to they used a 1×4 (actually 3/4” x 3 1/2”). Delta says for a “THIN” wall the plaster guard must be flush with the back of the drywall or a 1/4” behind the drywall. They also make a “THIN” wall kit which is just a couple of very thin plastic plates designed to stiffen up the wall which was not needed in my case.
    You can also cap the shower outlet on this valve and use it for a tub only or as you stated a shower only…
    I also recently found out why Delta and other manufacturers don’t recommend PEX for the tub drop to a drop ear. (This information came from a master plumber and not from Delta or another valve manufacturer). He said It’s because the diameter of PEX is not a true 1/2” diameter and not enough water pressure goes through the valve and tub spout diverter and can cause a very small amount of water to dribble out of the shower head. He said this can happen with any brand of tub/shower valve. I asked him if using PEX-A or using 3/4” PEX would make a difference…. His response was it would probably make a difference but he had never tested it.
    Hope this information helps….
    Ron

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