How to Change Polybutylene Pipe Shutoff Valves to Copper

How to Change Polybutylene Pipe Shutoff Valves to Copper

– In today’s video,
we’re going to show you how to change out this
water shutoff valve here underneath your kitchen
sink, with a twist. ‘Cause if you look closely, you can see this is not your
standard water shutoff valve. This one here, you can tell was connected to that old, ugly, nasty
polybutylene piping. That’s that gray, plastic flexible piping that’s been illegal since 1994. All of the builders put
this stuff up in the houses back in the ’70s and the ’80s, and finally in the ’90s, after all of the class action lawsuits, it’s been made illegal. You can’t use it on any
construction site anymore. But what do you do when
you have an older house that has one of these valves in it? How do you fix it? Well today we’re gonna
show you how to do that, and it starts right now. (pleasant country music) – Hey everybody, Jeff here. Welcome back to the
channel where we teach you how to do world-class
remodeling on your kitchen, on your bathroom, and how to do the most difficult
repairs around your house. So if you’re new here and you
haven’t subscribed before, you wanna hit that subscribe
button down below there, and then click the bell icon next to it. Why? Why do you want to
go through all of this? So that you’ll be
alerted every single time we upload a new video. Because let me tell you, you
do not wanna miss a single one. So let’s hop right into it. Let’s take a look under the sink here, and let’s see what’s going on down there. Okay, so here’s the shutoff valve here. That has your polybutylene piping, and here’s the first thing
I don’t like about it. See how it comes out at an angle? And look how wiggly this stuff is. That’s because this is the
little regard that builders have for us buyers of homes. Builders for years have always been trying to put the screws to you
by giving you cheaper, inferior products, just
to save a few bucks to maximize their profits
while leaving you in misery. But you can tell, there’s
your polybutylene pipe. That’s that gray plastic right there. And then they have a crimp on, gate valve. So this gate valve is leaking, and we’re going to change
both of these right now. So the very first thing we have to do is cut off the water outside. Okay, go ahead. Here we go, now the water is off. We’re going to use this
sharkbite adapter here, and this adapter will adapt
to polybutylene piping. This is specifically made
to go to polybutylene. So you see how it’s gray on this side? This is the end that you have to plug into the polybutylene pipe. And then the other side here, you can plug into copper, CPVC or PEX. This is going to be our plan, is we’ll line ’em up like this, PVC pipe will come out of
the wall and go in here, the adapter will go here. We have to have a little
piece of copper pipe here. That copper pipe will then
go into my preferred type of angle stop here, and this is going to be
a compression fitting. So once we get it into copper,
then we can put our normal, standard plumbing parts on
there, and we won’t have to deal with any more of those
polybutylene valves. But we will still have the
piping here in the house here, but at least you’ll have a valve that anybody can change now going forward. All right, so this right
here is what they call the sharkbite safe seal tool. This is also a depth gauge
that helps you determine how far deep your pipe is supposed to go into the sharkbite connector there. So what we do, is we stick our pipe down in
there all the way down flat, and then we gotta mark it so that when we go to insert the pipe into the adapter there, I need to make sure that this
red line comes all the way up. And it needs to go all the
way into the connector there. ‘Cause these things are very critical. Your pipe has to be cut completely square, and it has to go all
the way in, inside here. The copper pipe will go into this end. It has to go all the way into the very end where the stop is, and they’re very critical
on that distance. Now I like to just give it a little bit of a brushing on either side. Now not a whole lot, just a teeny bit. Just wanna make sure I have a clean pipe going into that connector
there, into the adapter. And it’s all important to remember that you’re always supposed
to use Type L copper pipe here when you’re dealing with
potable water systems. So let me make sure you can
tell the difference here. Let me focus it a little better for you. So this right here is the Type L pipe, and you can always tell ’cause it’s got the blue print on it. If you see anybody using the
copper pipe with the red on it, they don’t know what they’re doing, and you should stop them from
working on the job, probably, because they don’t know
what they’re doing. You need to use this Type L pipe ’cause it has a thicker wall, and with the turbulence of
the 60 psi water pressure, you need that extra thick
wall of the pipe here. And you can cause problems
and failures later on, and early corrosion, all sorts of weird things
that happen from turbulence. But just make sure you’re
using this Type L pipe. I usually like to take my reamer here, since I just cut this
little piece of pipe, and we’ll just ream the inside of it out, get rid of any little shards and make it smooth so you
won’t have any turbulence. (grinding sound) Here you go. Now you just take the adapter here, and you take your pipe here, and you stick it in, all
the way in until it stops. Now that’s it’s pushed all the way down, we’ve verified that our line that we drew with the depth gauge
has to be right there. Now if it’s not right there, then you know you’re not in far enough. Now what we are going to do, is we are going to take
our angle stop valve here. This is what we’re looking for, is our little ferrule bead here. The nut goes on the pipe first, facing up. So he’s on there now,
next comes the ferrule, and then I usually like to apply a little bit of the silicone grease around the threads here of
the valve before we insert it. And then we’ll put the valve on, and tighten everything down. And once this is built, this whole apparatus here will get plugged right onto the polybutylene pipe that’s stubbing out of the wall. Now that this is done, you
can begin to insert it into — see how it stops, it goes in, whoop! And you just tighten it up. We’ll tighten this with the wrenches, and get it ready to insert
it on the polybutylene pipe. I usually hold the base of
it with the Channellocks, and then I use my rigid wrench. I love this tool. I’ll put a link to this down
in the description for ya. But I usually just tighten it like that. Here’s the completed part here. This is the end that we’ll
plug into the cutoff stub-out of the polybutylene pipe here. There’s our copper tube going into the other end of the adapter. Here’s our angle shutoff valve there, all nicely tightened
and compressed on there, so all we have to do is just
plug this on to the stub-out and we’re good to go. Now we’re going to come down here and cut the polybutylene
as square as possible. Now I’m going to just gently
deburr it a little bit. Not a lot of pressure,
doesn’t need a whole lot ’cause that is a pretty clean cutter. Now we’re ready to insert
our apparatus on there. And I’m gonna to put it with
the water supply, the inlet, upward, and just push it right on there. There’s always been a debate about these sharkbite parts here, whether or not we should
really be using sharkbites, and a lot of plumbers
don’t want to use them, some don’t have a problem with them. My take on it is, I will use a sharkbite
if it’s outside the wall. I won’t use it inside the wall. I’ll solder the copper pipe together if it’s inside the wall to make a repair, but outside the wall, I
have no problem using it, because if it leaks,
you’ll see it instantly, and you can change ’em out pretty quickly. And I also use them quite a
bit during our remodeling, when we are using stub-outs,
you know, copper stub-outs, and we just wanna cap something off, we’ll put a sharkbite cap on
there for temporary use only. So, yeah, they’re fine. And when you hear people say,
“Oh, they leak, they do this,” it’s because the guys that installed it didn’t do it properly. They didn’t use that orange depth gauge that I just showed you. So they didn’t know
where to mark the pipe, and so when they insert the pipe in, they don’t go far enough in and they don’t know that
they’re not in far enough, and so they don’t have
a tight enough grip, and so their sharkbite is leaking. Let’s try turning on the main water. Well that’s it. These are going into the trash, folks, and we hope you enjoyed this video. And if you did, please
give us a thumbs up below that tells us if you like us! And don’t forget to hit that
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and we will see you next time. (pleasant country music)


  1. Parts used in this water shut off valve repair video:

    ✅ SharkBite U4008LFA Polybutylene Conversion Coupling Fitting, 1/2-Inch by 1/2-Inch:

    ✅ SharkBite Deburring Pipe and Depth Gauge Tool:

    ✅ SharkBite 3/4 In Disconnect Tongs:

    ✅ RIDGID One Stop Wrench Kit :

    ✅ Channellock 12-Inch Pliers:

    BrassCraft G2CR19X C1 1/2 in. NOM Comp Inlet x 3/8 in. OD Compression Outlet Chrome Plated Brass 1/4 Turn Angle Valve:

    ✅ Gear we used to produce this polybutylene pipe repair video:

    ✅ Nikon Z6 Camera Kit w/24-70mm Lens:

    ✅ Deity V.Lav Lavalier Lapel Microphone:

    ✅ Rode Wireless Go Mic Transmitter/Receiver:

  2. They are not crimp on gate valves under the sink , they are 1/2 " angle compression stops. Why didn't you show us when you changed the Sharkbite fitting around that you had inserted backwards?

  3. There is an insert inside all shark bite couplings that is there for use with pex tubing to help support or strengthen the pex but if using copper or CPVC you should remove that insert from inside the shark bite fitting by pulling it out with some needle nose pliers. It’s not needed with the stiffer pipe and will actually reduce the water flow. Probably reducing it down from half inch to three eights approximately.

  4. Builders look for the CHEAPEST ways when it comes to plumbers, or any other sub-contracter for that matter concerning low end housing…aka Trac houses. Only when you get into high end housing you'll see quality workmanship, products, etc. although you will see some shoddy work there too, when you have competition to win a contract. It's all about that dollar. You ever heard the phrase "You get what you pay for". Too bad the end user has to deal with this stuff.

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