How To Detail A Silver Car – Ferrari 575M Maranello Detail – Chemical Guys

How To Detail A Silver Car – Ferrari 575M Maranello Detail – Chemical Guys


This is a beautiful Ferrari that we picked
up in Vegas. We won it from the same guy we won the Aston
from. He did not know how to bet on anything. As you can see he didn’t take care of this
car either and it is very neglected, full of swirls and scratches. It is filthy, it’s a very dirty car and the
interior is not that bad but the outside is pretty much thrashed. The wheels are looking very dirty, the paintwork
is scratched and we need to take care of this car and make it look good. What are we going to do today? First things first, just like last time we
need to strip the paint and take off all the contaminants, so Citrus Wash & Gloss will
be perfect for that. For the scratches and swirls we are thinking
maybe a simple paint correction and might be able to get away with a glaze since this
color doesn’t show a lot of scratches or swirls. We’re going to use the Clay Bar or Clay Block,
what do you think? Absolutely, it definitely feels fairly rough
even underneath all the dirt so the Clay Block will help remove all those contaminants and
make the paint feel smooth. Like Alex said, the silver color does hide
a lot of the imperfections such as swirls and scratches. If we put a glaze on it we might be able to
just hide a lot of those imperfections and make the car look a lot better at a glance. Everyone is just going to see us blast by
them anyways and they won’t get a close enough look at the car. Then we’ll get another pink slip so we’ll
have another car to detail. [email protected]@king fly! That fly totally [email protected]@ked me up! Moving along the car we’re going to pop the
hood and then we’re going to look at this big lump. This is a gigantic V12. Yup there’s an engine. Lets see how many horses we can count on this
car. What’s happening with these big tubes Alex? Those tubes are intake ducts. This car actually has a functional ram air
intake where are goes in there and is channeled through these holes straight into the engine. Very cool. This engine doesn’t have a lot grease or oil
except some seepage but it doesn’t look like it had any huge leaks like we’ve seen in the
past. It ain’t clean in here, there is a lot of
dirt and dust. It’s pretty apparent that they never bothered
to clean this. Ferrari technicians think this is perfect
but we know it’s not. We’re probably going to start off this full
detail with the dirtiest part of the car which is typically the engine bay. We’re gonna go in here, wash out all this
contamination using some Orange Degreaser to take care of the thicker grime that starts
to build up around certain areas and we’re going use some parts cleaner brushes like
the Goats Brush and the Best Detailing Brush to get in the harder to reach nooks and crannies
and then hose it all out. Lets get to work. After the engine bay and we’ve sprayed all
the water and grease everywhere we’ll be able to wash the whole outside of the car and wash
all the contamination out. So it makes sense to start with the filthiest
part and then clean lighter and lighter as you go. Something else that needs attention are definitely
the wheels. Looking down especially at the face of the
wheel is fairly dirty but it goes all the way into the barrel and it is much thicker. The brake calipers are supposed to be black
and you can see they look brown and black so all this stuff we’re going to be able to
take off using just a few wheel cleaning products. I’m thinking we should use the Signature Series
on this. Signature Series Wheel Cleaner will be great
especially with the Goat Brush we can clean off these nuts and the cracks and crevices
that a traditional brush won’t fit. We definitely need to get into the barrel
with either the Ferret Brush or Concours Brush to get a deep clean inside. I like to do the fender liners because you
can see how chalky and gray it looks. It’s supposed to look black so we’re going
to hit the inside of the wheel wells with a long handled brush just to clean all the
mud out. Then we can use some Bare Bones on the inside. What’s happening with the paint? The hood looks the worst out of the whole
car which is unfortunate because it is the biggest part. On the sides there’s not a lot of scratches
or swirls but I do see a lot of water spots but of course it’ll be easier to see when
it’s clean. However even though it is dirty you can still
see a lot of scratches and swirls. You can tell that this car has been sitting
out on a lot in the desert for months and months. It’s covered in the sand and filth from being
outside. Coming down the back it’s more of the same
with the wheels and the paint. What’s cool is we removed the license plate
and you can see the dirt. We removed the license plate to protect my
identity and you can still see there is a lot of filth that has built up on it. This car is filthy I’m over it lets take it
outside and lets get to detailing. The worst part about having a V12 is that you
have to have all those ignition coils and spark plugs, it’s just so much extra stuff
that you don’t think about like two air filters. We are starting with the engine bay, it’s
really dirty and we have some materials prepared over here. We have some Orange Degreaser that we’ve already
diluted 6:1 in our Professional Spray Bottle so we can get a nice even spray pattern so
we can mist it over the whole engine and not have any problem. We have a few tools, Flagged Tip Wheel And
Body Brush this is great to use on engine bays and engine compartments and some Goat
Brushes. This has a plastic handle and feral brush
with a real boar’s hair bristle which is nice to clean any hard to reach areas around the
engine. Before we get started there is a little prep
work we have to do here. It is safe to spray water in the engine bay
so we can hose this down and nothing bad will happen. These are the intake ducts and they were designed
to allow water to get in them without getting to the air box. There is a drain there but just to be safe
we’re going to plug those up. Also the battery back here is exposed but
you can still spray it with water because there is water in battery’s and there is a
trickle charger here so we want to make sure the charger is waterproof which it is. Make sure the engine is cool to the touch
before you do any engine bay cleaning. it has been sitting over lunch time and we
had the hood open and the engine has cooled down and cool to the touch. You don’t want to be spraying cold water on
hot iron or hot aluminum because the temperature difference might cause it to crack and then
you’ll have a bad time because you’ll have a to replace a V12 engine. It is cool so it’s ready to go we’re going
to plug up the air intakes and get started detailing. So in reviewing the footage from the detail
we figured out we forgot to explain what we are doing as we do it. You can see that Alex and I are starting by
cleaning the wheels of the car first. We’re using Signature Series Wheel Cleaner
to take down the brake dust and grime. Alex is using the Concours Wheel Brush and
some car wash soap to get deep into the barrel. We’re starting with the wheels first because
we don’t want to leave water standing on the paint any longer than we absolutely have to. You can see he’s using the Flagged Tip Body
& Wheel Brush now. It’s a very soft brush that won’t scratch
any rims. But we’re doing the wheels first because they
are the filthiest and we don’t want to splatter any of that grime around the car. Now we’re rinsing down the car using the pressure
washer we’re using Citrus Wash & Gloss. Since we want to strip off any of the wax
or anything that is on the paint we’re using a little extra soap and the extra citrus power
helps to pull off any other sealants on the paint. Here we’re wiping it down with the Chenille
Microfiber Wash Mitt and we’re just going in a snake like pattern. Mostly straight lines and starting from top
to bottom to get the contaminants off the surface. Use good quality microfiber whenever you wipe
the car. You see we’re using the Foam Cannon and high
pressure water. We’re going to use a Chemical Guys microfiber
drying towel to simply wipe off this headlight and body without scratching the surface. You can see we’re using the Metro Vac Master
Blaster to remove the standing water. So we’re moving on to the detail with this
Ferrari and as you can hear. Even though the surface is clean there is
pollution stuck in the paintwork. That makes the paint not fell smooth as glass
and that contamination can also cause the paint to oxidize and it makes it easier to
scratch the paint if you rub across the surface you can dislodge contaminants and mar the
paint. We need to take all that stuff out before
we can cause more damage and before we do any further detailing steps like polishing
or spreading wax. If you take off this contamination first it
makes it easier to polish. Then you’re not polishing with that garbage
and you don’t clog your pad and won’t have to do more passes. The wax and sealant can stick directly to
the paint and it’ll look better and last longer. To save some time with the decontamination
steps, Alex and I are using the Clay Block rather than a clay bar. This is a synthetic rubberized material instead
of pieces of clay. All you need is some detailing spray. I’m using P40 in a Professional Spray Bottle. It’s very easy to use just take the Block
and scrub until it feels smooth. So right away it started rough and then it’s
nice and smooth. If you look in the detail spray you can start
to see it’s running off and it’s not looking totally clear or totally blue it’s looking
brownish yellow. That’s all the contamination being dislodged
and pulled out from the paintwork. Remember to use a lot of lubricant when using
a Clay Bar or Clay Block especially when using the Clay Block. Once you finish an area take a microfiber
towel and pick up all the contamination and spent detail spray. Buff it dry. Now you can use the Clay Block on any other
surface that you would use a traditional Clay Bar on. A lot of people ask what can clay, polish
or wax? Anything painted, shiny or clear. All the paintwork on the metal panels, the
headlights, the windows, tail lights and even the wheels if we needed. The best part about the Clay Block is if I
were to drop it just pick it up, spray it down and wipe it off. So we finished clay barring the surface of
the Ferrari and removed all the contamination so now it’s time to polish. Hey Matt get over, stop being lazy. Hi! Good enough. Do you know how to do a test spot? I do but I think we should show everybody
how to do to a test spot because I’m not very familiar with it. It’s simple, just mask off an area of the
car to test out which polish will work best. We’re going to be using V36 and V38. We’ll cut with V36 so we’ll do a fifty fitty. In the test spot he’s going to be looking
for the right choice of pads and the right choice of chemicals to see what reacts with
the paint. A lot of different paints have different clear
coats. Some are soft and some are hard so that is
why we do test spots before polishing the whole car. So we’ll be using our V36 and an Orange Pad
on this side and we’ll see what results we get. If it is too abrasive and mars the paint we
know to switch to a softer pad such as a White Quantum Pad that we will also be using. Usually you’re going to go straight to an
Orange Pad which is what everybody does because that is what will cut. But since every paint is different we’re going
to test out both to be completely sure before we polish the whole car. Lets get started. “Look at the big brain on Jen” How do you know how to do a test spot? We work great together. Oh Jesus! That got a lot of the scratches and swirls
out. That looks really good. As you can see there is no marring and it
took care of most of the scratches with just the V36. Remember now with the Quantum Pads, before
we would tell you to do five drops with the product, now this circle in the middle to
disperse the heat you don’t have to do the fifth dot. Four dots is still enough product. If it isn’t marring what does that tell you
about the paint? It means that the pad and combination are
good. So now using the V38 and a White Pad, if the
paint hadn’t taken well to the Orange Pad and V36 we would need to take further steps
but since it works well we are going to move on. Matt’s really missing out. What speed setting is ideal for polishing? On the TORQ either five or six. It’s great that the machine does the work
for you. There is little vibration and it gently glides
across with almost no effort. Wipe off with a clean microfiber towel. For wiping off the polish we are using our
Workhorse Microfiber Towel. People think that since this is a Ferrari
it is going to be harder to polish but it’s not. It’s just like doing a Toyota Corolla it’s
all in the technique. If V36 wasn’t taking out the scratches and
swirls in the paint you can actually move down to a more abrasive compound which would
be V34. If that didn’t work you can always go down
to V32 because that is the way the V-Line is setup. It works from most abrasive being V32 to least
abrasive being V38. You always want to start higher and move lower
because you don’t want to start off too aggressive. The whole point is to maintain as much clear
coat as possible for future polishing. So now we’re going to work on the
rest of the vehicle and then after that we’ll apply a glaze. Always remember to use Polishing Pad Conditioner
when you have a new pad. Two sprays for a new pad and one spray for
a pad you’re already using. So now that we’ve finished the whole car using
the V36 and V38 it’s time for the glaze. A glaze is great for your vehicle to cover
any existing swirls and scratches that are in the paint. Although we did do a paint correction on this
car, anything that may have been left behind can be filled using a glaze. We have a lot of different glazes but we’re
choosing Glossworkz Glaze because it is great for any metallic finishes. Where as Black Light or White Light for example
are good for specific color paints. This glaze looks good on metallic flake paint
jobs and those vibrant colors. With the Glossworkz Glaze you can apply it
by hand using any microfiber applicator or you can do it by machine for ease of use and
it’s faster. It also helps with the drying time because
it applies less material to dry up so it is easier to wipe off. We’re going to use our Blue Quantum Pads and
the TORQ 10FX. Usually the speed you want to use with a glaze
is the lowest speed setting. Like all of our products a little bit goes
a long way. I know spreading is done at speed setting
one but is there a higher speed setting to work it in at? Not necessarily, usually just stick to the
lowest speed setting. So when applying a glaze it doesn’t take a
of pressure. Just make sure you always work in one direction
just like polishing. Fifty fifty overlap giving even coverage. With just those four drops we were able to
cover over half the hood. So now let this sit for about fifteen minutes
or so and cure on the paint and then buff it off with a microfiber towel. So we’ll finish the rest of the car and then
come back and buff it off. So now that we’ve waited fifteen minutes for
the Glossworkz Glaze to cure it’s ready to be buffed off from all the paint work. We’re using a normal Workhorse Microfiber
Towel and buff off the glaze in a straight line. You can see it removes very easily when you
put on a thin even coat, especially with a machine polisher the glaze comes of easily. When you use the proper amount you get the
best look and it’s a very efficient way tot coat an entire vehicle. What happened to Jen? What are you talking about? Never mind Cool This little Ferrari is looking awesome. You can tell Alex has short arms because he
can’t reach over and buff the glaze off the middle of the hood. So now the vehicle is glazed and we’ve enhanced
the look to make it look extremely wet and shiny. Now we want to lock in that look with durable
protection against the elements to shield the car against pollution, brake dust, rail
dust and other contaminants. So we’re going to use Jet Seal which is a
synthetic wax. We normally wax cars to help protect the vehicle
against things like UV sunlight, pollution, contamination, water spots, birds and bugs. But synthetic wax like Jet Seal gives all
the same protection with a brilliant shine that lasts longer. So Jet Seal if you maintain it and apply it
correctly can last up to a full year with one application. Just like before all you need is a few drops
on a machine with a soft finishing pad. I’m going to take my TORQ 10 FX with a Red
Hex-Logic Quantum Pad and dab it out over the hood. Only use speed setting one and spread out
the sealant. We are going to put Jet Seal on the headlights
and the windshield because it can be used on almost anything on the vehicle as long
as its not rubber, trim or textured plastic surfaces. It has a cure time of fifteen to twenty minutes
to proper bond with the paint, glass or clear optical plastic. We got this car and it was covered in dirt
and junk, swirls, scratches. The engine bay was filthy and all the grease
coming out from underneath. With just a normal wash, clay bar service
and some light polish we restored the paint and made it look brand new so even on a twelve
year old Ferrari it looks brand new. Just to recap we used Citrus Wash & Gloss
to wash the vehicle in a foam bath to strip all grime that had stuck to the vehicle. After that we used the Clay Block and took
out any kind of contamination that was embedded on the paint. The paint started off rough but at the end
it is nice and silky smooth. Once we stripped all the contaminants we used
V36 to polish out any scratches or swirls and then using V38 we gave it a high polish. Then we topped it off with Glossworkz Glaze
to fill in any scratches or swirls to bring back a nice deep wet look. We finished it off with Jet Seal to protect
what we did and finish our paint correction.

56 Comments

  1. Just wondering but if add wax on top of jet sealent, whats the procedure when you want to reapply wax, without having to down to naked paint?

  2. Good Job but this Video is really nothing special. Same Video like the others. Its only that this time you were working on a nice Ferrari 🦄

  3. I have coated Butter Wet Wax on my car and I only have citrus wash & gloss shampoo. Can i use it for weekly to wash my car eventhough i have Butter wet wash?? will it not strip the wax as citrus wash is a bit strong? Please need help and FYI I am in Panama so the car gets pretty dirty the end of the week as it rains pretty often and it is quite dusty the air. Thanks let me know!

  4. Well guys, let me tell you your videos are great, cars are great, you work real good at them but now you definately hit the spot: inviting Jen to participate has won you the first prize

  5. he folded the pad back on itself when he had it at an angle at the air vent and the backing plate was spinning against the paintwork :S

  6. Great video but the editing needs to make the color brighter to see the vehicle better. Crazy that they high pressured washed the engine, definitely not something you should.

  7. Hey guys! I just started my detailing business and still trying to figure out a fair pricing for things. How much would this work cost you in the video? Any help and suggestions is very appreciated. Thank you!

  8. that thumbnail 😢 I remember picking up nfs high stakes in the store. I played it with the keyboard 😅 and still had a blast.

  9. when the hood felt on their heads I thought "that's what you deserve for using 9 minutes just to tell the car was dirty"

  10. I have a silver 07 accord I would like to make shine. I was expecting a car that needed that. Quit working on Ferraris and lamborghinis. People who have those cars have the money to send it to someone to do this. They don't have time to clean their cars (that are already clean). Make more videos for cars that actually need this. Also, those cars you really don't need to be that careful, because paint is heavy and thick. Only way you are going to rip into the clear coat is by doing it on purpose or by doing something irresponsible. Thank you.

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