How To Install A New Shower Faucet, With Copper Pipes

How To Install A New Shower Faucet, With Copper Pipes

Hi. Contractor John here today and we’re going
to be replacing this Moen shower valve. The reason we’re replacing this Moen valve is
it was installed about in the mid-70’s and, back then, they didn’t have any adjustment
for temperature. And they still don’t have a temperature adjustment per se, but there’s
a pressure adjustment, meaning what happens is, right now, when someone’s taking a shower
and somebody flushes the toilet or the washing machine starts, it drops the pressure on the
cold water side which allows more hot water to come through, and then you get scalded
in the shower or vice versa. So, the new valves are called Posi-Temp. In the Moen, it’s their
Posi-Temp valve. What that does is it automatically compensates for the drop in pressure on let’s
say the cold water sides. And, then, it drops the pressure on the hot water side and allows
more cold water even though there’s less pressure to even it out, to balance instantly so you
don’t get scalded or you don’t get frozen if say you had the washing machine on hot
cycle. So, we’re going to be replacing this, and we’ll talk about it, and we’ll show you
things as we go along. The first thing we’re going to have to do
is remove the handle and the cover plate, and then go behind this, and there’s a closet,
cut an access hole, and be able to get to the valve body. So, we’ll show you that next Here we are directly behind the shower valve.
And we’re in a closet and you cut a hole, a square hole between the studs, 14″ by 14″,
14″ wide by 16″, something like that, so you can get to the valve body. And what we’re
going to be doing is we’re going to be cutting this pipe and then installing the new valve
in here. We’re going to try to just cut here and replace the valve body. But, more than
likely, we’re going to have to replace all this and come down to here. So, you see we’re going to cut the copper
pipe now we’re we’ve got the cutter, and we had to notch that bottom 2 x 4. That was just
a filler for maybe a patch where they patched the drywall earlier, something, a 2 x 2 going
across. So, we had to notch that so we could pull the pipe out a little bit more because
the new valve body is deeper than the current one.
Okay. Now, we’ve cut all three pipes. Cut the hot, the cold, and we decided to cut it
below the T’s and everything and replace it all, and then cut the shower riser. And we’re
just going to take that out now with the whole valve body and everything. Here we go. And,
then, we can just cut those stops off at the valve and use those stops again, put the new
valve body in, and we’ll be set to go. And what you want to do now to start is take
the valve body, screw the spacing plate to it, and then insert that in the hole. And
you could see just where it’s a screwdriver in there to hold it in place while you go
around the back side and start to measure your piping. Make sure you prep the pipes
in the correct manner. And, if you watch my other videos, How to Sweat Copper, I talk
all about the proper procedure to prep the pipes and sweat the copper fittings. Alright.
Now, we’re starting to re-pipe this Moen Shower Valve. And what I’ve done is I’ve measured from here to this
pipe, and there’s a little bit of flex in this pipe. So, I cut my piece an inch and
a half, prepped it, dry fit, no flux, just dry fit it together, and then holding this
here, measured from the coupling up to the T here. And I’ve got 3 1/2 inches. So, then, just
dry fit this together and get that in there. And you see we look pretty darn good. Now,
out of here is going to come your cushion, we which we salvaged the piece from the old
valve. So, now, we just continue on and we do the same thing here. We measure from here.
And don’t forget, you go in the fitting. So, measure from the end of the threads over to
inside your T that’s going to be here. And, then, cut that piece and then you can do your
vertical just like we did on this side. And, then, you’ll have to do the same here. And,
then, we’ll use a slide coupling on this up here and I’ll show you that when we get to
that. Alright. We’ve got our parts cut down here.
We’re going to put our two cushions on here. So, I’ve got our dry fit here. We just got
this piece to cut. What we’re going to do is we’re going to take this apart, pull the
cartridge out, pull the plate out now that we’ve got it centered, and we’ll sweat all
this together with our cushions, sweat all that together. And once that’s all set and
rigid, then we will add this piece in here. The reason we’re doing that is because this
shower riser is attached at the top and we don’t have any flexibility. We want to get
everything tight before we put that piece in there. And we’ll use that slide coupling,
which I’ll talk about when we get to that part. So, we’re good here. We’re going to
take it apart, take the cartridge out, flux everything up, and get this sweated with the
cushions. You always want to heat the fitting up in
the center. I’ve got these little burn blankets made of asbestos here. You just touch
your solder to the pipe and you’ll see when it starts to melt and it’s hot enough. You’re
going to wipe the sides of it. Again, we’re heating in the middle of the fitting. Make
sure you take the cartridge out of the faucet too. You can watch my other video, How to
Sweat Copper Pipe, for more details on this. This one here, this metal is a little thicker,
so this takes a little more heat. Just touch it, and once it starts to melt, you know you’ve
got the temperature right. And you do it on the top and then solder will run out the bottom. Just make sure, when you’re doing this, that you do not — that’s why
I got the burn blanket in there, so that I don’t drop something down in the wall. And,
although you can use propane, gas, I’m using MAPP gas here. It burns a little hotter. It
burns a little — it heats it up a little bit faster. Alrighty. That should do her. Alright. We fitted this piece in here and
measure from in here to the bottom of this pipe. A slip coupling is a regular coupling
without a stop in the middle. In a normal coupling, you put the pipe into the coupling
and it stops halfway. With a slip coupling, it slips all the way up on this pipe, so you
could slide that one in and slide it down. It’s for use in an area when you can’t move
the pipes up, separate them to get the coupling, and then bring them back together. In here,
we can’t move that up. We can’t move this down. Put the coupling on, slide it all the
way up. Now, what you have to do, if the camera could pick this up, is hold the coupling alongside
the pipe and then put a little mark so you know how far to slide your coupling down.
Don’t put the mark right at the lip. Put it down a little bit so you know that distance
because, if you put it right there, you’re going to have material on the pipe and then
the solder won’t stick. So, move it down a little bit. And I know, I was 3/16th’s, or 1/4 inch.
I put the mark down. So, I know that I’m centered now. So, I’ve got enough meat or pipe inside
that coupling so it will catch, and, then, it’s the same as before. Start at your
coupling down here. And this one’s a little bit thick, remember, so it’s going to take
a little more heat. When you’re doing this, the heat’s going to [inaudible] and kind of
preheat that a little bit. That’s why you want to start with your thickest one first
or the one closest to all your connections. Here we go. That one’s done. You saw how fast
that went once it starts to melt. Again, just touch it. Once it starts to melt like that,
you’re good to go. It’ll suck it right in there. And that one was a little bit sloppy,
but it’s behind the wall. Nobody’s ever going to see. You could always take a rag too, when
it’s still hot, so just twist it around once and wipe it. The joint will be much neater.
So, alright. There we go. That’s it. Now, what we’re going to do is we’ll let it
cool, 10-15 minutes, and then make sure it’s warm to the touch. Put our finger inside the
valve body, make sure it’s cool to the touch or not hot. And, then, we’ll put the valve
body back in. First, before we do that, let me back up. Before we do, return the water
on and just flush a little bit out to make sure we don’t have any drops of solder or
anything inside there. Let the water run for maybe 10-15 seconds. Then, we’ll shut it off,
put the cartridge back in, put the clip in, and go from there, check for leaks. Okay. Here we are. We’re going to put the
cartridge in. And the Hot Cold insignia on the cartridge goes up. It should slide all
the way in, seat, and then the little clip comes. And the clip goes in, and make sure
that clip seats all the way down like that. Okay. You’re good. You’re in. Now, we could
turn the water on and check for leaks. Okay. Here we are with the trim. And we’re
going to take the escutcheon tube, put that on first, slide that on. The top obviously
goes over the pin, and then the plate over that. And, on the back of that plate, there’s
a foam gasket. You can run some caulk around the edge of that when you’re done so
that it fits nice and tight against that tile. You may not need it, but good to do. Just
finishing up getting the plate on. Now, the next part is going to be the temperature
limit bushing. There’s two parts to it. There are two white pieces of plastic and one fits
inside the other. I suggest — it’s not overly complicated. But, read your directions and
see how that goes on because there’s a procedure you go through to set it depending on ground
water temperature, and the temperature in your hot water tank, and everything. So, use
that book to set that. You put this handle bracket on. And, once the handle bracket is
on, you can put the handle on. Here’s what not to do. As you can see, when
you’re putting this handle bracket on, you want to be extremely careful when you’re tightening
the screw because, as you’ll see, the front of Dale’s shirt, he got a little bath because,
as he was tightening the screw, he turned the handle and it turned it on. The shower
head was aimed right at him. Did it cool you off, Dale? Dale: Yeah. It sure did. Now, one note here: When you’re tightening
the valve up for the front, these screws are what screw into the plate. Well, as you screw
those in, it moves the valve body in and it makes that escutcheon long in the inside.
Now, you could take — we’re going to back those out a little bit now and put behind
this pipe here and here like a spacer, like maybe a piece of 1/2″ plywood or 3/4″ plywood.
Hold that valve body out this way towards the camera and then that’ll give you a little
less of that escutcheon sitting into the shower area. Now, normally, you could take some brackets
right here and bracket back to here or something. But, we had to cut this out to be able to
move it to get the cutter in there. So, we’re not going to be able to do that, but this
way will work just fine. Just a little bit of spacer here. Just take note that you’ve
got some flexibility to go this way and that way with that valve body. You can see what
we did is we just took two small pieces of blocking, put those behind there, and then
tightened those screws up. Then, retighten those screws up. And that held the valve body
back enough and made it look better appearance wise. The escutcheon, the throat of the tube
of whatever, the valve body wasn’t sticking so far into the shower. It just looks much
better now. Alright. We’ve just completed the installation
of our Moen shower valve. We’ve actually installed a Moen Adler in chrome. And they give you
two different handles, and the customer chose this handle versus the acrylic one. The cost
of this valve was under $100 at Home Depot — in the $70 to $80 range. So, pretty economical
and it solved the problem that they were having. We’ve already tested it and everything works
just fine just the way they wanted it to. So, this is Contractor John. If you have any
comments or questions, please visit Have a blessed day.


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