I’m D.J. Poye, professional jeweler and gemologist
and I’m here today on behalf of Expert Village. Okay, now what we’ll do is, I need to cut
a few pieces of solder, this is Antimony solder, it doesn’t have the copper in it. So it really,
really is a bright solder. And there’s lots of ways you can solder. You can with small
clips that I really found this wire is really good. I’ve already cut three pieces here.
I always have extra pieces in case I need them. But two is probably all you need. One
of the final steps in order to make sure that you have all the lubricants on you, this is
flux, which will be placed on both of the pieces and this flux is to help the solder
move if you don’t have the flux it just stays in one place. The flux helps the solder go
into place. All right, next we’re going to get the torch going and silver is a little
bit different than gold, it takes a little bit more heat to heat things with silver.
Sterling silver basically, flow point is about 1655 and 14 carats around 1625 so you do need
to have the piece heated up a lot more. Gold just seems like it heats up evenly but with
silver you have to constantly flow the heat to it constantly. So this is a pretty good
piece, I’ll have to make sure the whole entire piece is heated. Okay, make sure you have
your safety glasses on. And here we go. Okay, what I’ll do first is that the little veil,
you always want to kind of go slow because the borax or the flux on both sides needs
to adhere to the metal so as I move back and forth to make sure that the solder and the
flux is like, you know, drying up. Both of the small pieces of solder are now at the
end of the veil. Some people will put the solder on the larger piece first, flow it
into place because usually the bigger piece always takes more heat, but sometimes they
go different places. I kind of life to put them on a smaller piece and then just really
watch what you do so that you don’t burn the small piece up.