How to Make Bottle Cap Jewelry Using Resin

How to Make Bottle Cap Jewelry Using Resin


Go to Beadaholique.com for all of your beading supplies needs! Hello. This is Julie with Beadaholique.com.
I’m going to show you how to make the bottle cap jewelry using resin. Now what you’re going to need some
bottle caps. I have this great orange color right here. I love them. You can see I just have a basic bottle cap. There’s
no liner in these. If yours happens to have a liner there’s another video we have which
will show you how to remove that. You’re going to need some resin. I’m actually
using a two part resin. If you prefer you can answer use a one part if you’re familiar
mail with that process. I really like Ice Resin because it comes across crystal clear. You’ll need a little measuring cup. You’ll need a stirstick of some sort and you’re going to need a torch to remove air
bubbles. So what you want to do first is you’re
going to want to find an image to use within your bottle cap. If you’re going to be using an
image you can use charms, you can be using little sprinkles. You can fill these
bottle caps with anything you want. For this tutorial I want to show you how
to do it using an image. I’ve actually already prepared my
image. The way I prepared it is shown on another video here that we have on preparing images for resin. Basically you’re just finding an image.
You’re cutting it out. Bottle caps have a one-inch diameter interior circle. It’s easy if you have an one inch
hole punch you can just hole punch it or you can just cut it out. You can trace
around a US quarter that’s going to be about the right size
as well. I just glued my image in using and Nunn design glue. You can use
another white glue if you have it as well. Then after that glue has dryed I painted on three coats of Nunn Design sealant. You can actually use Mod Podge. It’s just
important to do multiple coats and letting them each dry between coats and that’s going to prevent your
colors of your image from distorting when you put the resin on it. So I want to show you know how to
actually get the resin into the bottle cap. So first off we’re going to have to mix our
resin. My little measuring cup here has
measurements along the side. I want to mix one ounce. So I’m going to first off take Part A and I’m going to fill it to the half ounce mark. I’m going to take Part B and fill it to the
one ounce mark. You’re probably wondering why I’m using
so much resin for such a small piece and that is because I don’t like to mix
less than an ounce of resin at a time just because it’s so precise your
measurements for the Part A and Part B you have to be exactly equal in order
for the resin to actually set up right. I find it if I measure out less than an ounce there’s a
little bit more room for error and it becomes a little bit more difficult to get so
precise the chemical reaction doesn’t really take
place. So I will just fill some molds that I have setting aside here with
my left over resin so it doesn’t go to waste. So I’m just going to stir it and scrape the sides. You can see there’s a lot of striations
in there and basically I’m going to this for two minutes until it’s clear. You will get some bubbles. That’s okay.
We’re going to be getting rid of those later and some of them actually disappeared on
their own. You don’t want to whip this. You want just want to
do a nice stir. It’s been two minutes. I’ve stirred it. I’m going to try to tilt this towards the camera a little bit. You can tell there a lot of bubbles right now. I’m going to let my resin rest just about three, four minutes. While I’m doing that I want to show
you something else. So here is going to be a magnet. I have a little magnet right here and I want to glue, it adheres on itself but I’m going to glue it on onto the base later for added security. In the meantime we’ll show you how you
would make a pendant or a earring. So to do that you’re going to want to take a metal hole
punch We have a Euro Hole Punch right here
and it creates a round punch. This one 1.25 millimeters. You really don’t want a hole bigger than that because you
don’t want your resin to gush out of the side. So I really like the 1.25 millimeter. The way you punch a hole you just find one of the crevices. So you got this nice flared thin edge
you can see where it kind of goes out and in and I’m going to put my
hole punch right into one of the indents. You can tell I’m going about halfway down
so I’m trying to not go too far down towards the base of the bottle cap. I’ll show you why in a minute. Just like that. Just punched it. Really easy to use. I didn’t use any pressure at all. Now I have a hole in the bottle cap. You can see where about I orientated that hole. The reason I didn’t want to go lower
is because when I fill my pendant with resin I don’t want the resin to actually reach
that hole because it does no matter how secure
of a fit I feel I have with my jump ring or my earring hook there’s still a chance that the resin is
going to spill out the edges and I don’t want that. So I’m going to try to keep that hole up as far as i can towards the the edge of the bottle cap and away from the base of it. So if this was going to be a pendant I would now just take a jump ring. You can use whatever size you want. With the 1.25 millimeter punch the
largest gauge of wire you can have for jump ring is going to be seventeen gauge.
Sixteen gauge is just going to be too tight. Seventeen gauge is perfect or you
can do a different gauge as well. You’ll just a little bit more room. So I’m just going to open my jump ring insert it through a hole and close the jump ring and there is my
little jump ring bail. If you have a earring hook you would do the same
thing. The point you would do this in your process would be if you’re going to be using images you would do this first. Actually if you’re going to do anything you do this
for first. Before you do anything else with your jewelry making if you’re doing a pendant or a
earring you’re going to punch that hole you’re going to go ahead and insert whatever finding you have. So just let that be. Now I’m going to come back. with my resin. It actually feels a little bit
warm. That’s totally fine. Because I’m filling a large area I’m going to
actually pour my resin. Normally I would put my resin on my stick and I would drop it into the center. But again because I have a little bit of
a large area to fill. I’m just going to pour. I’m working on scrap paper. You probably tell that I have
a little bit of a drip happening which is fine because I’m on scrap paper. Now I’m going to let this just rest for a couple minutes and then come back
with my torch and try remove any bubbles that are present. It’s been about ten minutes. I’m going to
comeback with my torch. I’m just going to brush the flame over the top. You can see that we still have quite a few
bubbles. Now I’m going to go back and do the
same process in about another ten minutes from now and then even another ten
minutes after that. I just what to make sure that there’s no bubbles present. If you get filling your pendant, let’s say you’re making or a pair of earrings and you want
the resin to actually go up to the top. So you’re filling it with maybe
sprinkles or charms something where you need that resin to go up above the line of where you inserted you’re findings. What you’re going to want to is you’re
just going to want to put some glue right over the hole. So you’re going to want
to that finding into place to make sure that you adhere a glue line so that there’s no gaps for
the resin to spill out. You can just to use a glue such
as a E6000 or another glue that’s going to dry clear and strong for you. Let that dry thoroughly. Make sure
that that glue is completely clear, not milky white. If you use a craft glue that milky white is going to stay embedded in
your resin. So make sure it’s completely clear. Let that thoroughly dry and then fill your bottle cap with resin. So we’ve been patient. We waited twenty four hours. Now our
magnet top which is our bottle cap with kitty in it with the resin
inside is now cured. It looks like there’s no resin in here
but they’re actually is. There’s a nice thick layer of resin. It is solid. I wouldn’t recommend fully
working with it or really putting your finger nail in there for three days. I do
like to be extra cautious with resin. After twenty four hours you’re really okay to start working with
it. Now with this particular piece I want
to make it a magnet so I want to show you how to finish it. I’m going to take some E6000 glue and this is really one of the easiest
projects you can every do. I’m going to take some glue put it on the back of my magnet just like that. I didn’t even really need a applicator
because this magnet is big enough. If you have some strings just kind of work them around. I’m just going to flip it over, place the magnet on the back of my
bottle cap and and I’m going just going to trim up the glue with
my fingernail. You could use a toothpick or whatever you like. I’m going to let that dry now. And that is done. It’s ready to go on your fridge or give
as a gift. Although we didn’t fully make a bottle
cap pendant in this video it’s the same concept though. You would put the image in and go ahead lay resin on top of it. I shoed you how to
punch the hole. I’m going to show you how to finish this really quickly. Ball chain is a great way of finishing a
bottle cap pendant. It goes really well with the kind of funky fun feel of the
bottle cap. It comes in all different colors. I
have a black ball chain here which I thought would be really fun with the orange
for halloween doing this little black kitty or there’s also the stainless. Ball chain is super easy to work with. It has a little clasp right here and you just pull the chain out pushing it towards
the other end. You can then just thread it right through your jump ring. Resecure the clasp like that. Wiggle it on down and there you have a bottle cap pendant
using resin. Thanks for joining us. I hope you enjoyed
this video on how to make bottle cap jewelry using resin. Go to Beadaholique.com for all of your beading supplies needs!

65 Comments

  1. @PuReL1GhT If you turn on annotations for the video there's a link for our video on How to Remove Bottle Liners at 24 seconds. You can also go to Beadaholique's channel page and find the video there.

  2. @EverythingDuctTape33 yeah but I usually do that. As long as you pour slowly into the measuring cup you should be fine 🙂

  3. @justtubingby Yes, we always have proper ventilation when we use resin. For us here at Beadaholique, we always do our resin pours right before everyone leaves for the day so the rooms can air out before the next morning when everyone arrives again.

  4. @artist639 Unfortunately mixed resin can not be stored in any capacity. The curing process starts as soon as part A and part B are combined and there is no way to halt that process and allow you to store the resin for a later pour. What I like to do is have several projects which need resin and pour them all at once (sometimes this means waiting a bit until I have enough projects ready), that way I do not waste resin.

  5. @Beadaholique Then I mix up a fresh batch for the second layer and again have enough projects ready so as to not waste resin.

  6. @gatafierrra When working with resin, I prefer a painted on sealer vs. a spray sealer. The coverage is heavier which is what you want. You will also need to repeat the sealant several times over. Mod Podge itself will work as the sealant – just make sure to paint on 3 coats ontop of your image.

  7. @foreveraninja88 To remove the bubbles, you can also use a bbq lighter – I find this works really well. If the bubbles are really up towards the surface, you can sometimes remove them with your hot breath. A heat gun also works, although this is my least favorite method compared to the others since i feel it does blow the resin slightly (although some people swear by it). Good luck!

  8. Yes, I too have noticed a heating of the resin once mixed. I believe it is because part A and part B when combined create a chemical reaction and this is part of it.

  9. A hair dryer will blow the resin, causing it to leave the confines of the bezel/mold and get on your work surface. I would not advise. You can use a bbq lighter in stead of a torch. Here are some resin tips: beadersblog . com/2012/06/mastering-2-part-resin-tips-and-advice.html The link is also in the video description underneath the video.

  10. I have not tried this exact application before so I am not sure that the result would be "gem" like. I would suggest giving it a try and seeing what happens. It could have a very interesting look. I don't think you would need a semi clear paint on top.

  11. Julie I was on Amazon looking for a 1.25 metal punch like you suggested and saw Beadaholique is offering a 1.5 punch on there but you said 1.25 is better for bottle caps. Do you have a 1.25 one through Amazon?

  12. Yes, I have tried other brands of resin. Resin is one of those products where each individual artist will find a brand that they like best for their particular art. Speaking personally, I prefer Ice Resin because of its low instances of bubbles, crystal clear appearance, and easy doming. I find that I also have fewer instanced of fogging with it and fewer "bad" batches due to whatever reason.

  13. Some artists who like instant results prefer a UV resin. I know other artists who prefer Easy Cast or Envirotex – it all really depends upon what you are doing and what brand you are most comfortable with.

  14. To remove the bubbles, you can also use a bbq lighter – I find this works really well. If the bubbles are really up towards the surface, you can sometimes remove them with your hot breath. A heat gun also works, although this is my least favorite method compared to the others since i feel it does blow the resin slightly (although some people swear by it).

  15. Here are some resin tips: beadersblog . com/2012/06/mastering-2-part-r­esin-tips-and-advice.html The link is also in the video description underneath the video.

  16. You can get E6000 on Beadaholique . com's website. The links for the supplies in this video are located in the video description underneath this video.

  17. We sell Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy Resin on our website, Beadaholique . com and we can confirm that we gladly ship to Pakistan!

  18. Hi! The image was supplied by Sarah, Beadaholique's President. I personally love hunting antique stores and flea markets to find images like this.

  19. The heat of the torch causes the bubbles to rise to the surface and pop. You can try to use a toothpick but sometimes it can displace the resin or just move the bubble around vs. popping it.

  20. I printed images off of the internet onto printer paper and made one to try (also I only had one bottle cap). This morning it looks like it got wet. So would I use thicker paper? I am using Mod Podge.

  21. Yes, you should use thicker paper and coat the paper with 3 layers of sealant (letting each dry before the next coat – Mod Podge is fine). Use paper that is at least 60# weight

  22. You can get the supplies featured in our videos on Beadaholique . com's website. The links for the supplies in this video are located in the video description underneath this video.

  23. I would be careful of a regular lighter because you are having to get real close to the resin and might accidentally bump it. I have used a BBQ lighter before and that works fine.

  24. I recommend a heavier weight matte white card stock, regular printer paper is very thin and can easily become over saturated and dark/wrinkly – even when you seal it. Also, don't use papers that have a coating on them, such as photo paper printed on an inkjet printer.

  25. A heat gun works, although this is my least favorite method compared to the others since I feel it does blow the resin slightly (although some people swear by it).

  26. Hi Julie,
    I love all the arts and craft ideas and materials you have to offer, and I do buy a whole lot of those 🙂 
    I would like to create a photo pendant charm using (http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/antique-silver-oval-locket-charm-366294/).
    My question is, can I use Diamond Glaze to act as a resin-like material instead of resin itself, since I would be getting a bottle of the Diamond Glaze for another project (bezel cabochon photo keepsake pendant)?
    Also, is Crafter's Pick glue an option instead of the Nunn Design glue used, to glue the photo onto the inside of the locket?
    If I use Diamond Glaze as a resin substitute, should I use a sealant? And do I require the torch to eliminate bubbles?
    Thanks,
    Ace

  27. i wanna ask before i'm try it, after we make anything from resin, is it ok if i wash the cup and use it again?

    sorry if it is a silly question, since this is my first time using resin

  28. hi, what type of paper do you use? or what material you use that won't make the print get yellowish or stain or wet? this would help me a lot because so far the ones I have made have a yellow stain or have wet edges!! please and thanks!! 🙂

  29. Sorry if I missed the instruction, but you said to put glue over the jump ring hole before adding resin…is that with the jump ring in or out? What type of glue? And what do you do with the glue covered hole after you add the resin? Thanks!

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