How to Make Genuine Colloidal Silver

How to Make Genuine Colloidal Silver


Health Wyze! Hi. I am Sarah Corriher from Health Wyze Media.
In this video, we’re going to show you how to make your own colloidal silver at home,
cheaply. There are a lot of videos and other information about how to make colloidal silver.
The trouble is that almost everyone does something wrong, and this is something that has to be
done right. So, we’re going to demonstrate how that’s done. We’re not going to talk about
all of the different uses for silver. We’ve done that before in our article at our site,
so this is purely a manufacturing video, and we hope that you find it helpful. There are two methods of powering this process.
One is using three 9 volt batteries. The other method is using a DC power supply. Officially,
we have to recommend that you use the battery method. That’s for liability reasons. You
see, we can’t be held liable if somebody uses a power supply and then electrocutes himself
or burns his house down. That said, we use a power supply ourselves, and that’s for a
couple of reasons. Firstly, buying 9 volt batteries recurrently can get expensive. More
importantly, whenever you use batteries, you have a constantly reducing voltage, and each
time you use those batteries, your voltage decreases. This gives you inconsistent results.
Whenever you use a power supply, you will have a steady voltage all of the way through
every batch, giving you very consistent results. Now, before I go any further, some women may
be ready to tune out, seeing the soldering iron that we have, but soldering isn’t a big
deal. It’s not particularly hard. I learned how to do it, and you can too. Now, if you
need to buy a soldering iron, get one that is between 20 and 30 watts. That’ll do just
fine. Get one that comes with a sponge. The sponge solves a couple of things. Firstly,
it helps you to clean it. When you touch a hot soldering iron to a wet sponge, the steam
that’s produced will blow off the oxides, resulting in a cleaning effect. Also, with
that same action of touching the hot soldering iron to the wet sponge, you temporarily cool
the soldering iron. See, if it’s too hot, and you touch solder, the solder will just
turn into this water-like mess. Whereas, if it’s slightly colder than that, you can get
this plasticy consistency that is much more manageable and easier to work with. You will
also want some flux. You can find this kind at any standard hardware store in the section
with copper pipes, plumbing, that sort of thing. You can also buy flux at an electronics
store, but there is nothing special about the flux that they sell. It’s just a resin
that helps the solder to work better. All right. For this, you are going to want solid copper
wire. Don’t get stranded wire, and certainly don’t get aluminum wire. Aluminum is a cumulative
heavy metal. It’s not something that you want anywhere near this process. Copper isn’t something
that you want to be supplementing with orally either, but at least with copper, if it somehow
gets in there, your body can naturally excrete it. With aluminum, it simply can’t. Alright.
So, it’s 18 to 24 gauge solid copper wire. Now, if you get thinner wire than that, you
are going to have problems with safety. It’s gonna get too hot for the amount of current
that is being pulled through the wire. If you get a wire that’s thicker than that, it
is kind of wasteful. You see, later on in the video, we are going to show you a process
of drilling a tiny hole inside a silver bullion bar, and then threading this wire through
the hole. If you get thicker wire, you are going to have to drill a much bigger hole,
and that is just wasteful for your silver bar. Now, if you’ve got wire strippers, you
are welcome to use them. We’re going to show you the old fashioned way just using a razor
knife. You can score the insulation around the wire, whilst twisting the wire, then pulling.
All right. Now, this device right here is called the helping hands. It simply helps
you to hold things still. See, I’ve got an alligator clip already in one end, and I’ll
be holding the wire with the other end. If you don’t have something like this, it’s very
hard to get a good connection, because you’re going to be constantly shaking the wire, and,
well, you can’t get a good connection when you’re shaking, and everybody does. Alright.
Well, we’re going to go ahead and connect it up. For best results, you want to use alcohol
on the wire and the alligator clip, and the solder, to remove any extra oils. Just put
it on a napkin. Regular rubbing alcohol is just fine. Go ahead and get the wire, the
alligator clip, and my solder. Next, you need the flux. This is what it looks like. And
you want to apply flux to the wire and to the alligator clip. It’s okay to be generous. Now, we thread the exposed wire through the
tiny hole in the alligator clip. Before I go on, let me just say that this foil is here
for a reason. If you happen to drop some hot solder onto your work surface, the foil will
act as a heat sink and cool it instantly, preventing it from damaging anything, like
your table. I’ll go ahead and touch the sponge, like we
talked about earlier. Now you want to apply the heat from below the alligator clip whilst
applying the solder from above, that way the solder should just melt over the copper wire
when it reaches the right temperature. And when it’s covered, you’re done. Although officially we have to recommend the
battery method, if you are going to use a power supply, there is a good chance you will
need a power cord. You can either purchase one at say RadioShack or another electronics
store — a pre-tinned power cord — or you can make your own. I’m making my own with a computer
power cable. As you can see, I have already gone ahead and cut it. Of course, you’ll want
to keep the other end on. We’ll need that. Alright. Now, you want to start by removing
this layer of insulation, the black, about two inches down, and you will want to be gentle.
You see, we’ve got three wires inside. Each of those wires is individually insulated,
and you don’t want to cut through that insulation at this juncture. So, be gentle, and it is
okay to go around a couple of times gently. Again, about two inches. You might want to inspect your inner wires
at this point, and make sure you didn’t nick them. If you did, you’ll need to go ahead
and clip, and try again. Alright. Often, you will find some nylon inside here. You can just grab it all together, and use a regular pair of scissors, and cut that off. Now, we need to get through the insulation on each of these wires, one at a time. Now, you’ll
want to go about half way, to remove the insulation half way. So, I’m going to isolate that alone.
Again, score it with a razor knife. Again, don’t be too forceful, because this is probably
stranded wire, and they break really easily. There we go. Okay, and now because the wire
is stranded, you will want to twist it, to get it nice and tight, and then you will insert
it into your, assumably, helping hands. Now, when you attach it, try and make sure that
it’s angled upwards, so that gravity will help the solder to fall back down. Another
thing to keep in mind is that when you pinch it with this alligator clip, keep it as far
away from your exposed copper wire as possible, because if you were to say, clip right next
to the copper wire, it would get hot, and then it could turn into a mush right where
you pinched it. So, keep it far away like that. Next we’ll want to flux. Again, it’s okay to be generous. Now apply the solder from above whilst you’re applying the heat
from below. Now work your way down, as it begins to silver. Try not to go too close to the insulation, and melt it. If it’s angled like this, the solder should just kind of
get pulled in there, like a wicking effect. You’ll want to repeat this process for the
other two wires as well. Health Wyze! Electricity is required to make colloidal
silver that is pure, because other methods require the use of chemicals that leave behind
contaminants. Thus, the use of electricity is the only way to make correct colloidal
silver that is safe for internal usage. Anything that is added into the solution changes it
into something else. For example, the addition of salt chemically transforms colloidal silver
into silver chloride, which is something that does not have the exceptional safety record
of colloidal silver. While silver chloride is ideal for eye drops, it is nevertheless
something that should not be used internally. The purity of the ingredients is essential
for making true colloidal silver, for impurities will transform the solution into a different
substance. Even the minerals in spring water will undergo unpredictable chemical transformations,
whenever they are exposed to an electrolysis process. Therefore, manufacturing with distilled
water and pure silver is the only way to be certain that the solution is health wyze.
Ensure that the water has been distilled using steam distillation, which should be written
upon the container. Some “distilled” water containers have, distilled through reverse
osmosis on the label, and these labels are entirely dishonest. True distillation uses
steam to separate the water from its minerals and contaminants, whereas reverse osmosis
is simply a type of pressurized filtration that does not render pure water. The purest
retail brand that we have found is the Great Value product from Walmart, and the worst
(most impure) brand of distilled water that we found is Food Lion’s brand. Before beginning manufacture, the vessel wherein
the colloidal silver is to be produced should be cleaned with a fresh paper towel that has
been wetted with alcohol. Soaps should not be used, because they will leave unacceptable
residues. Standard rubbing alcohol is acceptable, but a quality vodka is better, since it is
less likely to leave behind a chemical residue. The silver bullion bars are cleaned by soaking
them in a solution of distilled vinegar that is almost saturated with salt for about 10
minutes. Then the bars are scrubbed with vodka, which is removed with distilled water, and
they are finally dried. These cleaning procedures are intended to ensure that no impurities
get into the solution, but they have nothing to do with hygiene. The colloidal silver is
self sterilizing. Furthermore, no germs can survive the electrolysis process. Never use silver wire to make colloidal silver.
Most of it comes from China, and as a result, most of it is contaminated with toxic metals.
Regardless of how trustworthy a vendor of it seems to be, a seller is unlikely to be
able to trace his wire’s true origin, for it was probably resold a dozen times before
it reached him. Viewers may have noticed that many of the online manufacturing videos show
colloidal silver being produced very rapidly, using silver wires that were obtained from
China. The short manufacture time indicates the presence of other, more reactive metals,
and perhaps impure water too. Coins contain a variety of metals that should
not be consumed, so never use silver coins for colloidal silver manufacture. High purity
is vital, because most metals are extremely detrimental to the health. We recommend using silver bullion bars as
the source of silver, and they should be purchased only from a reputable seller. We must warn
about the risk of not buying from a reputable seller, because the Chinese have begun flooding
the market with fake bullion bars too, and these cheap lookalikes are everywhere. It
is impossible for a normal person in his home to detect the fakes. Although, the Internet
is full of videos with questionable methods for testing. The most reputable source for
buying bullion bars is a bank, followed by other financial institutions, since they purchase
their bullion bars from regulated mints. Your bank does not obtain its precious metals and
currency from Craig’s List or E-bay, in other words. You should be just as cautious in acquiring
your own bullion bars, for the sake of your family’s long-term health. One other consideration
to make during the buying process is that not all domestic silver bullion bars are pure.
To ensure purity, buy only silver bullion that has a rating of “999”. Do not accept
any other rating. Silver of such extreme purity only contains
the impurities of copper and selenium, in trace amounts. Both of which are beneficial
to health in these small quantities. In fact, both are vital nutrients. Selenium is actually
used by the human body to chelate harmful metals. These safety measures are essential to prevent
the unintentional creation of a solution that contains unknown and untested compounds. There
is only one way to make real colloidal silver, and this process requires that the ingredients
be untainted. You should review this video several times prior to manufacturing colloidal
silver, and perhaps take notes. This shows how to connect the nine volt batteries.
Make certain that they have exactly the same remaining power, or there could be overheating
problems with the batteries, which could cause them to explode. We therefore recommend that
all three batteries be purchased fresh and are only used for making colloidal silver.
Nine volt batteries conveniently have connection points that enable interconnection to other
nine volt batteries. This connector is the positive side, and this one is the negative.
Just remember that the big connector is negative. The connectors that are exposed on the outside
are the ones that could be used to provide battery power for the upcoming electrolysis
process. You may notice that positive connectors are attached to the negative ones. This sort
of connection, which strings positive to negative connections, is called a series circuit, and
it causes the voltages applied from all of the batteries to be added together. Since
we are using three nine volt batteries, the total voltage combined that manifests itself
on the outer connections is approximately 27 volts (or 3 times 9). This is how an individual could make the connections
to manufacture colloidal silver at home with battery power. The copper wire was inserted
into drilled holes in the tops of the bullion bars, which was done to avoid having solder
connections or alligator clips near the solution. It is difficult to solder to a silver bar,
but the real reason for avoiding solder is because it will contain tin, and either lead
or cadmium. If enough moisture were to reach the connection points at the tops of the bullion
bars, and those connections had been soldered, then toxic metals from the solder could leach
into the solution. Therefore, it is health wyze to keep solder completely away from the
interior of the vessel, and the silver bullion bars. Alligator clips should not be used on
the bullion bars either, for the same reason. If enough moisture reached the alligator clips,
then one might inadvertently produce colloidal something-else, which would be entirely destructive
to the health. Of course, one should avoid getting copper into the solution too, but
copper contamination would be considerably safer than those alternative contaminants.
Notice that the water level was kept at the mid-point of the bullion bars, to ensure that
the top connection points remain dry, even if the container is bumped. Putting the water
half way provides a dry safety zone. If you are going to be making multiple batches
of colloidal silver, then you are going to want a real D.C. power supply. We cannot officially
recommend that you use one, but we are certain that you would come to want one. I shall tell
you about the use of a D.C. power supply, in the event that you disregard our official
recommendation to use batteries. We understand that most people will want to disregard it. The first safety rule of a power supply is
to always use one that is overrated for the job that it is to perform. The ideal voltage
range for making colloidal silver is from 27 to 30 volts. Thus, the power supply that
is used should provide about 30 volts. The next consideration is the current. The current
supplied and used is the top safety consideration, so please pay attention. The current rating
of a power supply is the maximum amount of current that it can output without being damaged.
The device may become hot from too much current, it could overheat, destroy itself, or even
start a fire. Therefore, we must state that the use of a power supply is entirely AT YOUR
OWN RISK. We found an extremely high quality power supply being sold, which had such a
high current rating, that we would never need to worry about its use in the making of colloidal
solutions. We picked the Meanwell SP-240-30 Switching AC to DC Power Supply, because it
provides an astounding 8 Amps. of pure D.C. power, and it did not disappoint. The output
is adjustable, it has automatic cooling, and it has built-in short protection. This power
supply is our top recommendation. If you choose another power supply for the manufacture of
colloidal silver, then get one that outputs 27 to 30 volts, and get the highest current
rating that is affordable. Eight Amps. is plenty. You can safely disregard a power supply’s
rating in watts, if you follow our advice religiously. The wattage value is just the
voltage multiplied by the maximum current, which were already taken into account. We found our power supply at the Jameco web
site, but we purchased it for much less at E-bay. A standard power cable in the United
States has three inner wires that are color coded. The green wire is the main ground,
which connects to the ground connection of the outside transformer. The white wire is
called the “neutral wire”. It connects to the building’s ground. The black wire is typically
called the hot wire. It is always to be connected last, as an old engineering rule. For our
purposes, keeping the cord unplugged until the setup was complete sufficed in providing
safety. Once the ends of the power cable have been
soldered, as Sarah demonstrated earlier, they can be inserted into the power supply’s connection
points. The screws must be loosened, so that wires can be inserted between the screw plates.
The wires should be trimmed to the right size, so that the wires do not stick out of the
connection points. This symbol indicates the main ground connection (often referred to
as the “chassis ground”). It is meant for the green wire, and it should be the first
one connected for the sake of safety. The neutral wire is usually connected next. The
white wire is the neutral, and its connection point is indicated by the letter N, as in
neutral. Finally, the hot wire (namely black) is connected to the connector marked with
the letter L (as in Laura). Now the D.C. power supply will have the A.C. power that it needs to function, as soon as the power cable is plugged in, but it should not be plugged in
until it is properly wired to whatever it will be powering. To begin manufacture, a positive connection
needs to be made to one bullion bar, and a negative connection should be made to the
other one. This means that a wire from one of the bullion bars should be connected to
a power supply connector which is marked with “V+”, and the other bullion bar’s wire should
go to a connection marked with “V-“. Do all of this before plugging the power supply into
the wall outlet. The power supply should not be hot until everything else in the setup
is complete. I have one last note about this power supply.
This knob is adjustable with a screwdriver, in case you want to limit the D.C. voltage
that the power supply provides. Very few people will ever have a need to adjust this, except
for the rare cases wherein a power supply arrives that was adjusted lower than its maximum
voltage. In our setup, you may notice that the wires
from the power supply to the wires on the bullion bars are connected by alligator clips.
You may connect the wires from the power supply directly to the bullion bars, but the alligator
clips in the middle actually provide a great benefit. Periodically reversing the power
connections to the bullion bars helps to preserve them. Otherwise, one of the bars will decay
at an accelerated rate. We keep the bullion bars about 1 inch apart
during the manufacturing process. This distance provides an engineering compromise between
two competing issues. The first consideration is that the bars should be kept close enough
together to aid in overcoming the massive resistance of the reasonably pure water. The
other consideration is that the distance between the bars should be great enough to prevent
their touching, if the container is bumped. The latter case of the bars causing an electrical
short is a serious safety consideration. One of the first indicators that silver is
combining with the water can be seen with a flashlight in a dark room. Shining light
through the water at certain angles will show what appears to be smoke coming from one of
the silver plates. As time progresses, one of the silver plates will turn a flat gray
color, and the other plate will blacken. When a red laser is directed through a colloidal
solution, it provides an even more impressive visual result than a flashlight does. Lasers,
especially red ones, enable a person to see otherwise invisible particles. In the case
of colloidal silver, particles sparkle like glitter in the water, and they make the laser
beam visible. The voltage on the bullion bars may be tested
to ensure that everything is properly connected and that the power supply is providing the
correct voltage. For a voltage test, the red goes here, and the black probe connects here.
Once the meter is powered up and ready for making measurements, you need to determine
which part of the settings are for D.C. voltage testing. This is the symbol for D.C. voltages
on meters. Find the closest number in the D.C. voltage section that is above what you
expect. Since you expect for the reading to be about 30 volts, you might choose 100 or
200 volts, depending entirely upon the meter’s options. To complete the test, touch the red
probe to the wire that is connected to the “V+” (or positive) connection of the power
supply, where it is wrapped inside of the bullion bar, and touch the black probe to
the other wire in the same location. The meter should display a reading that is close to
the number 30. For best results, we encourage stirring the
solution every hour, and reversing the connections. This will yield better overall results, and
prevent the premature destruction of the bars. An electro-static charge may cause a bridge
that is made of silver particles to form between the two bars. This has the potential to cause
an electrical shorting condition that could damage the power supply, if left unchecked
for long enough. A silver bridge can be destroyed by scraping it with a wooden spoon. Never
insert anything metal whilst power is applied. The first batch of colloidal silver will take
the longest to create. This is because the distilled water should be primed with a small
amount of existing colloidal silver, to accelerate the electrolysis process by making the distilled
water significantly more conductive. When producing our own colloidal silver by the
gallon, we add about 10 fluid ounces of existing colloidal silver to speed the production time,
without effecting the quality of the resulting product. Even the best distilled water will
contain some trace impurities that provide enough conductivity for the manufacture of
colloidal silver, if given enough time. The time can be extreme, however. Our first batch,
which lacked colloidal silver to prime it, required a make time of 15 hours, and that
batch was still weak. Due to the fact that silver is extremely non-reactive, a slower
process indicates higher purity in both the silver and the water. Pure water and pure
silver will both be very resistant to the electrolysis process. Finished colloidal silver can range from looking
fairly clear to being an amber color. Standard colloidal silver of the appropriate strength
most often has a yellow tint, but it can take on a reflective appearance too, like mercury.
The color may continue changing for a week after manufacture, even in storage. Darker
shades generally indicate that the solution has increased particles or unusually large
particles, but these are not necessary good things. The medical standard from yesteryear
is 20 parts per million of silver particles that are a colloidal size. This was documented
in the research of Alfred Searle from Searle Pharmaceuticals. It is generally believed
by credible experts that this strength yields the classic light-yellow color. A yellow tint is what any maker of colloidal
silver should be looking for. However, the signature yellow tint of colloidal silver
does not always appear during manufacture. Sometimes, the colorization happens between
the 16 and 24 hour points. It is believed that such silver solutions are not truly colloidal
before yellowing, because the particles are not yet uniformly distributed. In other words,
light is effected differently as the particles separate evenly throughout the solution, and
such perfect particle distribution is caused by a residual electrical process. Another way to verify purity is to look at
the particulates that form at the bottom or float. These clumps of silver particles should
always be shades of gray. Assume that there are non-silver impurities if they are other
colors. Black particulates usually indicate the presence of organic matter from electrically-burned
carbon compounds. Black particles almost always indicate that the distilled water was unacceptably
impure. To eliminate the particulates within a finished
batch of colloidal silver, it may be filtered through a standard coffee filter. It is always
best, health wyze, to use only unbleached coffee filters for this and other purposes
for which coffee filters are used. When chlorine by-products from bleaching come into contact
with organic matter, it has a tendency to create dioxin-like compounds. Most people will get a more accurate assessment
of a solution’s strength by making a visual estimate that is based upon its color. We have noticed from our testing that there is a linear relationship between the amount of
time spent in manufacturing colloidal silver, and the strength of it. In other words, making
colloidal silver for twice the amount of time in the same amount of water will produce a
solution that is doubly concentrated. Triple the time equals triple the strength, and so
on. The same linear math applies to the amount of water, but in an inverse way. If the water
is doubled, and the electrolysis process is performed for the same amount of time, then
the resultant colloidal silver will be half strength. So both decreasing the water or
increasing the time has the effect of producing more concentrated solutions. Making a quart
of ideally strong colloidal silver (20 parts per million) would take about four hours in
a quart jar, if it were primed with a small amount of existing colloidal silver. If you are able to get considerably faster results, then the water is impure, the bullion is impure,
or you are not using 30 volts. If so, then you are not making safe and true colloidal
silver. An interesting experiment to verify the presence
of silver in the solution is to freeze a small amount of it, and then examine the clumped
silver in the bottom of the container after thawing. If a choice must be made between
storage in a hot or cold environment, the warmer environment should always be chosen. For more information about making colloidal
silver, its medical history, and its proper usage, reference this topic at our home site:
HealthWyze.org. We’re health wyze. Have you told your friends about us?

40 Comments

  1. Thank you for making this video. What about Canadian silver leaf coins, that are .9999 pure silver? How many times can you use the silver bars or how many batches can you make with two bars before they are 'done'?

  2. That could be why, with the 9 volt battery, I got 13 PPM first time..and now down to 7-8 PPM with same amount of time to make

  3. İngilizce bilmiyorum. 30V 500 Mah üstü tehlikeli olduğu söylendi. Siz 30 V 8A ( 8000 Mah ) kullanıyorsunuz. Benmi yanlış anladım?

  4. was she making the wire that holds the silver hook directly to the cord that goes into the wall with not V or AP converter box? just the wires that will go into the wall? 120? isn't that way too much?

  5. excellent and thorough article. You mentioned at the beginning about buying a power cord from radio shack or somewhere. If I did that would I still have to cut the insulation & solder or do any of those places sell it already done for me?

  6. i have a friend who makes Colloidal Silver at home. I saw your amazing video on youtube that makes me want to try it! However, she is convinced that there are 2 types of sizes of particles of silver. A certain size works for viruses, a certain size for bacteria. I don't see any articles about that anywhere. No store sells 2 different kinds of silver. Can anyone who is well-versed in this help me out? I've been using silver for years and if I'm using the wrong "size" I want to know. I'm intrigued now because I have pink eye and I've been using silver and breastmilk for 2 days and I'm not seeing a difference. She is making me some tonight and asked me if it's viral or bacterial so she knows which one to make.

  7. Excellent video! Thanks a lot.I have a question. Would this be the same process to make colloidal copper or gold?Thanks in advance.

  8. Hello…Very impressed with the detail of the video. Well done. The young lady kinda reminds me of a female Sheldon (Big Bang Theory ) 🙂 I have a quick question. In other videos they "clean" the silver wires. Do you clean the bullion bars in any way or does reversing polarity take care of that issue? Again thanx for this extremely well made video

  9. Hello again…
    Do you store your CS in plastic gallon jugs or is amber glass better? Also do you use a meter to test the ppm? Thanks for your time.

  10. having recently bought some colloidal silver with outstanding results for skin conditions (10ppm) for 3 different people I am very interested in this. Absolutely great video, though a couple of questions I would like opinion on please.
    Is it ok to have a strong solution say 30ppm and dilute it with the same volume of distilled water to get 15ppm?
    also
    I am concerned you used distilled water from a plastic bottle, how is it possible to ensure it is free from leaching BPA or other estrogen like chemicals.

  11. WOW!!! You guys deserve so much more views and Subscribers. this video was top notch. after seeing this compared to so many others i'v watched, i feel like i should go back and let people know in the comments that they are putting themselves at Risk…
    My question: is it possible to get a step by step guide to manufacture colloidal silver?
    Also a reputable website to purchase .999 Silver online, in case i cant purchase from a bank?
    Last question: Is it possible to reach 50ppm without ofcourse the use for consumption ?
    Thanks in advance. You guys Rock!

  12. Greetings Sarah; Great video! As an electronics tech of 38 years, I must mention that the flux (paste) for plumbing pipes is different from that used for electronics soldering. The former has an acid base (mildly corrosive) where the latter does not (unless in recent years they changed it all to non-acid flux). Thank you.

  13. I've watched quite a few videos, trying to find the one I trust most to make colloidal silver. I think might just be the one. I already own a DC power supply. I'll talk to my daughter about getting the silver bullion bars, as she works as a manager in a bank. Thanks for the excellent video and information.

  14. Terrific information! Thanks for bringing forth a multitude of issues…such a condensation creating a reaction on the tiger-clips… periodic switching of leads on the bars… and others. You have done the home colloidal community a great service.

  15. I have a question, why is it necessary to solder the wires? Can I put the solid core wire directly into the Meanwell AC to DC converter without soldering? What about the computer cord that deleivers power the the ac/dc converter? What does the solder do?

  16. Thank you thank you thank you, lovely people! I have been making my own for years, but was thinking to buy a new generator. As I am doing research, it is like wading through mud. Your article https://healthwyze.org/reports/633-making-and-using-genuine-colloidal-silver led me to this video, and I will try a do it yourself approach next, which I love!

  17. Great information. Just what I needed. I do have a question. Can I use the same silver bars over and over until they are gone?

  18. This is easily the most wholistic perspective on producing colloidal silver. She showed the baby boomers how it's done. So many scientists over look elaborating key information, but she didn't. Worthy of 2 comments in succession haha

  19. When I make it, like the batch I made yesterday, it is 15ppm, and it is slight yellow.. Not as yellow as what you showed, but still yellow.

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