How to Make Square or Diamond Shaped Earwires – Jewelry Tutorial


Hi everybody! This is Jessica from JewelryTutorialHQ.com
and Bespangled Jewelry. Today we’re going to learn how to make these diamond shaped
ear wires using a specialty pair of pliers called Wubbers square mandrel pliers. In this video we’re just going to learn how
to make the ear wire part – I have a different video that will show you how to wire wrap
the briolettes that you can attach at the end. I’ll link that in the notes along with a link
to the blog post where you can find a list of supplies and more tips. I’m starting with two 3 inch pieces of 20
gauge wire, and using the back of my flush cutters to trim the ends to make them flat
before I get started. I just want to check that they are still the
same length. And we will need to smooth one of the ends of each piece. This is a cup bur
and I have it in a pin vise. And to smooth the end, you just twist like
I’m doing here – in one direction, until it smooths the sharp piece off the end. I’m going
to show you a different way to do this on the second piece of wire: If you don’t have a cup bur, you can just
use a needle file. Just make sure that you only make contact with the metal on the down
stroke. If you use it in a sawing motion back and forth, too much metal gets caught in the
teeth of the file and it doesn’t last for very long. And one final option, if you don’t have a
needle file or a cup bur, you can just use a nail file which is basically very fine grit
sandpaper – and just smooth the end, just like this. And by the way the reason that we’re doing
this is because this is the end that goes through your ear and you always want to make
sure that end is smooth so it doesn’t hurt. So now for the fun part! We’re going to make
this into an ear wire. Insert the smooth end of the wire about half
the width of the smaller jaw of your jumbo Wubber’s square mandrel pliers. Squeeze the
pliers together and hold the and rotate, pressing the wire against the mandrel, especially against
the corners as you turn slowly. After you finish the third side, you’ll need
to take the wire out and reposition in the pliers so you can bend that last little piece.
And when you remove it, you’ll have a square. You’ll see that one piece is overlapping,
and we’re going to take the flush cutters – always using the back side toward the end
of the wire that you want to keep flush. And we’re going to trim it, leaving just a
tiny little space about 1 millimeter just like this. Grab the end that you just trimmed with your
round nose pliers making sure that it doesn’t stick out on on the other side of the jaws,
and grip it about 4-5 millimeters down on the plier jaws and twist away until the end
touches the other side. Now if you’re using dead soft wire, you definitely
want to work harden the metal. You can hammer it against a bench block, and this is just
a regular ball peen hammer that I’m using. This helps stiffen the metal and makes sure
that it will hold its shape. I’m actually using half – hard wire, and I’ll
have more information on all of these tips in the blog post that’s linked in the description. Just give it a few taps against the bench
block and make sure that it retains its shape. Sometimes hammering can distort the shape
and stretch it a little – if that’s the case you can just use your square Wubber’s and
just squeeze it against the sides to put it back in its shape. Now we have finished one ear wire – you obviously
are going to do the exact same for the other piece – and to attach your drop, you can use
your round nose pliers to open up the loop that you made, slip on the briolette or other
drop or charm, squeeze that loop back in place, and you have a really unique earring with
a cool diamond shaped ear wire! I hope you enjoyed this project and that you’ll
come back and see me again soon. Be sure to subscribe if you liked what you saw. Thanks
so much for watching!

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