How to Make Sterling Silver Chain Necklaces Jewellery Making

How to Make Sterling Silver Chain Necklaces Jewellery Making

ladies and gentlemen I’m Jeweller Barry
Roberts welcome to my company Roberts & Co here in London England today I’m
going to share with you how I make one of the most popular necklaces in our
shop in the Roberts and co online store it’s a necklace made of a very fine
style of chain called trace chain now this is just over two millimeters thick
there’s meters of it here doesn’t look like it but there is meters of it there
it’s very fine now many of the necklaces and bracelets we make we make them entirely by hand we make every link however for this very fine trace chain we have it machine
made we use the company here in England in the Birmingham Jewellery quarter that have been in Birmingham for over a hundred years and they can trace their company history
back here in London over two hundred years so they’re very good at what they
do you don’t stay in business for over two hundred years if you’re not what we have
to do is assemble this chain into wearable necklaces with many of the
necklaces we make they’re available in different lengths the most popular lengths for fine jewellery are 16 18 and 20 but the possibilities are endless
now one of the most popular Styles we’ve been making recently are adjustable and
again we do them in different lengths today I’m gonna make one that’s
adjustable between 16 17 and 18 and the reason they’re so popular is you change your outfit you can change the style of your necklace you can change the length of it
they’re especially popular for necklaces and pendants so we need to assemble this first which is a relatively straightforward process get it to the
right length and then what’s not so simple we need to solder it all together and
for that we’ll be using a special piece of equipment we need to get these tiny
components up to between 7 or 800 degrees for the jewellery grade solder to
flow we need to get them up to up to 700 or 800 degrees without melting them or become a
solid blob of solder so I’ll use a special soldering torch that can give us
the heat we require with pinpoint accuracy
but first of all let’s assemble this necklace now for this I need some tools
and a ruler now here in England to sell stuff by length to sell stuff by weight
being a jeweller you need government-approved scales which we have
sell stuff by length you need government approved ruler which cost a fortune as
do the scales and they only do them in centimetres which is useless so
we’ll have to use that to double-check later that its correct length for now
I’ll be using this ruler with inches on ROBERTS & CO LONDON PRIDE & PASSION BEAUTY & ELEGANCE TIMELESS & TIMELY THEN & NOW so we need to add three jump rings each
one inch apart so this necklace can be adjusted and worn at either 16 inches 17
inches or 18 inches long and we need to add a clasp different styles of clasp
are available and for this necklace we’ll be using the style called a bolt
ring so first we’re adding a five millimeter jump ring which will be the
end of the necklace for this I’m using a pair of chain nose or snipe nose pliers
and a pair of flat pliers these are special jewelry making pliers so the
jaws are smooth unlike other pliers so they’ll not mark the piece I’m using a
headband magnifier for this so we get the perfect fit it’s a little tricky to
do this and keep both you and I in focus and so we can both see what I’m doing here the jump rings need to be opened and closed from side to side so they stay
perfectly round in shape and they need to be closed perfectly or we will not be
able to solder them so the necklace is the correct length we fit three jump
rings that will make the necklaces adjustable first each jump ring is one
inch apart now we measure out the remaining main length of chain for the
necklace so then we can fit the clasp and tag we fit this first without
cutting to ensure we get the correct overall length so if it needs adjustment
it can be done now then once we’ve got the correct overall length we can cut
the necklace from the length of chain (music) okay we’ve now got our necklace
assembled at the correct length it’s just a fraction over 18 inches long
but if I remove another link it’ll be just under it’s better to be a fraction
over than a fraction under so now I can make the final cut of this necklace off the
meters of chain and then all we need to do is solder it together to solder sterling
silver chain links on this tiny scale we use a micro soldiering torch we have an
aqua flame model 800 which is years old they produce a very hot and precise
flame the machine passes electricity through distilled water producing
hydrogen and oxygen gas by electrolysis which is then atomized through a solvent
to reduce the temperature of the flame and make it a little more controllable
these systems cost much more than most jewelry torches however they are very
efficient and environmentally friendly you’re not storing any flammable gas
just the water and liquid they used to produce the gas on demand and they are
capable of producing the pinpoint flame hot enough to solder jewelry that we
need we can also change the torch tips to produce flames suitable for the
smallest chain link up to rings and bangles so now we have our necklace assembled I
need to solder together two three millimetre jump rings that hold the bolt ring clasp onto this one other clasp styles are available on this one we’re
using the bolt ring so I’ve got to solder the two three millimetre jump rings together and then although there are three five millimetre jump rings on the adjustable end I’ll only solder together two and one will be left friction fitted together for heath and safety reasons because then if the necklaces gets does happen to get caught in a piece of industrial equipment it won’t take the wearer’s head off but it’s also
the strongest link so it’s not going to give out in normal wear now I’m gonna flux the joints with some borax I’ve got the borax cone and dish here and just need to put some water in there mix up the borax which will help the solder flow
without using flux it will not work now the micro welder will give us pinpoint
accuracy and we’ll be able to get the jump rings up to between seven and eight
hundred degrees for the solder to flow and what we’ll use to place the solder is
this piece of steel which I’ve filled in to a very fine point so we’ve got a needle
point there and if you heat the solder up it will ball up with the micro welder
and you can actually pick it up with the steal it won’t flow on the steel
just picks it up and then we can use this like a pencil to put the solder
right where we need it we’ll get the jump rings actually up to the melting
temperature of the solder which I can with experience you can tell by the
colour of it we’ll turn the light off you actually tell why the colour of the metal so once it’s up to the melting temperature of the solder I’ll then place the solder exactly where we want it and then the necklace will just need polishing but let’s get
on with the soldering so first I’m cutting some small pallions of solder for all of the
joints we’re using jewellery grade silver solder which produces a permanent joint
we have to roll out the solder first using a rolling mill to make it much
thinner than standard for these sized jump rings the silver solder shares many
of the properties of the sterling silver components so it’s similar in durability
and a color match however that also makes it flow at over 700 degrees
centigrade so we apply some borax flux to each joint to allow the solder to
flow and also to the surrounding areas to give them a little protection from
the residual heat we use the micro soldiering torch to get the jump rings
up to the melting temperature of the solder first and then I apply a small
ball of solder using a steel pick so the solder only flows precisely where we
need it and we only solder the joints together and not the links themselves using the micro soldering torch we
switch tip sizes until we get the right size flame for the joint also switching
tip sizes during the process of making this necklace because the Rings its
constructed with are different sizes (music) okay so now we’ve soldered all of our
jump rings together that require soldering together now I need to pickle the
necklace to clean off the fire scale and then it will require polishing so here we have the finished sterling
silver adjustable Trace chain necklace and when you adjust it from 18 to either
17 or 16 inches in length on this model which I’ve done there you get this interesting lariat feature down the back there perfect to be worn on their own or with pendants
this one’s been assembled soldered together and cleaned however this will
still need final polishing before he can go to a customer so I hope you enjoyed this
look at how we make these sterling silver necklaces I see you again soon Toodles! ROBERTS & CO LONDON (music)


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