Rookie. Prep your pipe before sticking the bread inside and always heat the bottom of the fitting first, especially if there’s water in the pipe. The solder will always catch on top but it’s the bottom where the water will be traveling is where you will have the trouble if there’s water in the pipe. Also if your water main shutoff is not completing shutting down the water you can brake the nut on the water meter as well.
I tried to use that bread trick once about 30 years ago. And it was a pain in the ass. But it can work. I'm for opening other valves and creating suction with vacuums. And I would also only use rosin core solder for copper that won't stop dripping. Well hey that's what I think, and it was a good video anyway. Because there's lots of people out there who don't have a clue about anyting. And you may have surely helped someone. Peace and love, peace and love.
All you had to do is use a compression fitting. Not to mention always use the tip of the BLUE flam. It's he hottest part, but it MUST be the tip of the BLUE flame. Plus, the flame should always be OPPOSITE the solder. Back to school bro!
Handyman work, professional plumbers only use acetylene turbo torch, and use different torch tips depending on the size of the pipe you need to solder, thats a big flame for a 1/2" pipe. Have you ever heard of jetsweat tool?? You also left money on the table, next time replace the main water shut off first, you are not providing good service if you dont fix the valve
I was a professional union pipe fitter for 25 years. I worked on installing commercial and industrial boilers and chillers. It was common for me to solder up to 4 inch copper pipe and I had my R stamp for welding on pressure vessels and steam pipe. Jeff I have forgotten more than most of the guy's who are criticizing you. Did you do it like I would ?? No but you made the repair and it doesn't leak and how you got to that point is irrelevant of your methods. Shark bites are shit. There are two types of mechanical couplings, those that leak and those that are going to. I wonder how many of these posters have used teflon tape on a flair fitting. When I see that I know some one was smacked with a stupid stick. You can use a little pipe dope to lubricate the flair so the copper doesn't bind on the brass fitting when you tighten it. All of the criticizing experts can go fuck off.
I just realized from your presentation here that the reason I've seen so many journeyman plumbers bend the end of their solder was not only to get a better angle; but, it was also to mark how much solder to use on each joint. Thanks for that.
I WAS CALLED TO FIX A COPPER PIPE LEAK UNDER A SLAB , WE HAD A HARD TIME WITH WATER , I TOLD MY HELPER TO ASK THE HOMEOWNER FOR SOME BREAD , SHE CAME WHERE I WAS AT AND SAID " IF YOU'RE HUNGRY I CAN MAKE YOU SOME SANDWICHES " !
1:52 Using vacuum to clean inside of the pipe? There will be hardly any effect of vacuum from a few centimeter distance. Also vacuum is hard to come by and with vacuum cleaner I have strong doubts. However a gentle pressure would be more effective to blow out any dirt in the pipe. 5:04 "solder will be drawn to heat source" Said who? This is no longer concerns plumbing , it is physics. Any reference to this statement.? The correct terminology should be "capillary action" as commonly used but I would suggest surface tension. Liquids are attracted to the solid surface and adhere with a stronger bond than the inter bond among the liquid molecules. Hence as soon as soldering metal melts and becomes liquid it is immediately attracted by the surface of copper pipe nearby. That is due to surface tension. And the attention the double surface of concentric copper pipe one inside the other creating a very fine gap causes capillary action and stronger surface tension force to draw/attract/pull the liquid solder. Where does the heat comes into play? That goes beyond plumbing and takes us into physics. Firstly you need a minimum base amount of heat to keep solder metal in liquid state while cooling off by the ambient temperature. Secondly you can repeat the same experiment at different temperatures (Not heat) to observe and obtain data how surface tension/capillary action behaves under different temperatures. Under ambient temperatures this information maybe of no use to plumbers but in electronic industry or in space precision to manipulate the matter maybe everything.
Um, why in the hell did you clean and flux the inside of the pipe? You don't solder inside the pipe, so it's not needed. Ridiculous waste of time. And a quick tip – play your torch on one side of the joint and feed the solder into the other side. The heat will draw the solder all the way around the joint for you. I did plumbing for 42 years and I never once saw anyone put flux on the inside of a male part of any joint.
omg….idea is good….but.you should n o t to instruct anybody how to do it. sorry, you have no skill and common sense!!!!. plus, your small piece of bread would not stop this huge leak for the time of your lenghty demonstration! shame on you.
So you are a diy'er. Not a plumber. That makes perfect sense. I understand the purpose of the video. But there are 10 different ways you. Could have performed the job easier and still showed diy'ers the easy cost effective solution. So sorry if that hit home to you. But step you game up.
I had the same problem with a main shut off gate valve, change to a ball valve and it will stop all water flow. I like the all plastic ones since FL water is corrosive and full of calcium deposits, metal just won't last long term. I've used the bread trick for CPVC also but if you use the blue wet location glue a little moisture won't be a problem. Not sure why you brushed and fluxed the inside of the pipe but you should have done the inside of the coupler right? I never knew about the lenght of solder. I always just fed it enough to fill to the edge of the outside fitting but I'm not a pro, just a DIYer. BTW, Def Leppard sucks.
The way I was taught is to take bread, roll into a ball, not hard, big enough to fill the leaking pipe, it clogs the water temporarily so you can do the solder. When finished, turn the water on and the bread will flush out.
After your 5 attempts because of leaks all you need to do is go to the water meter and break the Union on the house side to alleviate the water. You need a smaller torch head dude why don’t you carry a spray bottle to cool the pipe and solder flux. Rookies
I just finished plumbing in a pressure tank for our well. I had 4 joints spraying water afterwards. I realized I had applied the flux using my finger do you think the oils from my finger in the flux cause that failure
My friend i would say to put the bread back in the kitchen the kids are hungry! for a problem such as this you could
a) get your hands on a mechanical stopper attached to a rod the product is called jet sweat. its a few inches long and will expand outwardly so you can solder and dont worry about contaminating copper fittings with oil from your hands, wouldnt happen
B) disconnect the union nut on the house side of the meter so that any water leaking past the valve will drain out of the system at the point of entry to your house
What also works is breaking loose the water mater and let it drain outside..then use a shop vac to remove any remaining water in the line..using a real torch also helps..cookin torches are not the proper way to solder..
These kinds of videos are great for plumbing repair businesses. You did just about everything wrong. Why would you clean the inside of the pipe? Fix the leak first, then you wouldn't have to shove bread up the pipe!