Jeweled Bezels-Polymer Clay Jewelry Tutorial

Jeweled Bezels-Polymer Clay Jewelry Tutorial

Hi there. Sandy here. Welcome to another polymer clay jewelry video
at Today I’m going to show you how you can use
purchased bezels, polymer clay and a few other special ingredients to make this gorgeous
bracelet with these beautiful, sparkling stones in the settings that you’ve created yourself. There are several steps, but it’s not complicated
at all. So this project began when on a trip to my
local Michael’s I picked up this string of bezels. That’s my rooster. He’s three months old. He’s practicing his crowing! I picked up these bezels, not because I love
the sparkly crystals that were in them. You can see I’ve actually popped these out,
but because I really like the bezels and although these were sparkly, yes I thought we can definitely
do better than that. So you just need to take a tool, an awl or
something. I wouldn’t recommend an X-acto knife as it
tends to break off, but some kind of strong tool and then pop out these crystals. And two of mine came out really easy and the
other three came out in chunks, but they all come out. And now we can make really wonderful, beautiful
gemstone-like pieces to go in here that are completely and uniquely our own. So we’re going to start first with some polymer
clay and you really don’t need much. Here I have Pearl clay. You can use any color you want. Just keep in mind that the color is going
to come through and change the color of your inks. So I like the Pearl because it gives a little
sparkle, but it doesn’t tone down my colors very much. The next thing you’ll need is some metal leaf
and this is simple leaf, which s really a lot simpler to deal with, as advertised, than
some of the others. I have gold. You could use silver or copper or whatever
you want and I’m just going to lay this on my polymer clay and then burnish it in really
well so that it sticks to the clay. I’m just going to try to use my fingernail
and cut it off around the edges so I don’t waste much. Don’t worry too much about the extra on the
edges. We will use some of it in the project. Next you want to send this through your pasta
machine and I forgot to mention my beginning sheet was rolled out on the thickest setting
in my pasta machine. So I’m going to send this through my pasta
machine one setting thinner. So number one is my thickest so I’m going
to send it through on a two. Now I just sent this through the pasta machine
on one setting thinner than the sheet was originally rolled out and you can see the
direction that I rolled it. You can tell by the lines on it and also the
major cracks are going this way. So now what I want to do is step the machine
down one more setting, so to a three and give my sheet a 90 degree turn and send it through
again. And now you can see that the cracks in the
gold leaf are fairly even. None are going more in one direction than
the other and that’s why we do the two turns stepping it down each time. And now what I have here are a selection of
alcohol inks. These are Ranger, but Pinata also makes a
brand and I’ve just chosen some colors that I like and I like to choose analogous colors,
those that are close to each other on the color wheel. That way when they inevitably mix, they’re
not going to turn into some muddy color. So I’m starting here with one of my favorite
alcohol ink colors, Sailboat Blue, and I’m just going to add a few drops and then kind
of tilt it. Let them spread a bit and then this is, that
was Stream and this is Sailboat Blue. It depends on my mood which of these I like
better. This is much brighter, hence the name Sailboat
Blue. Now I’m not going to rub these around to spread
them because I’ve found what happens when I do that is I often lift up little bits of
my gold leaf, which I don’t want to do. So now I’m going to add a couple of greens. This is Lettuce and this is Meadow. This would be gorgeous in autumn shades of
reds and oranges. Whatever suits you. So I’m going to make a mess of my finger here
and just kind of dab these around a little because they’re not spreading out as much
as I hoped. It seems to be all turning green so I’m going
to add some more blue and what this will do, it will push. See how it’s spreading. It will push the other colors aside as you
add it. So you get these great variations. You’ll end up with those dark lines too and
that’s okay. It will add a lot of interest. And now what you have to do is walk away. Go wash your finger. Alcohol, rubbing alcohol or the alcohol blending
solution that you use with alcohol inks will take it off. Walk away and let this sit for awhile. You want it to be completely dry for the next
step. So here’s my alcohol inked sheet, all nice
and dry and I also now have a little bit of Pardo translucent clay. I have rolled this out on the thinnest setting
on my pasta machine and I’m going to take a nice clean and dry acrylic roller and just
lightly maybe roll it a little bit thinner on the tile. Don’t press too hard or it will stick and
then it rips and it’s just a pain. Ask me how I know. I’m just going to do this. Now because this is so thin, I don’t really
want to lift it up so I’m not going to. And notice I don’t have enough to cover this
whole sheet. I don’t want to cover this whole sheet. I’m actually going to use some of this for
another purpose. So I’m just going to use my blade, lift up
this sheet and then place it upside down on the translucent and just give that a bit of
a gentle roll. Now of course if you were making a bigger
project you might need to use a larger amount of clay, but I’m just filling these five rather
small bezels. We’ll flip that over and now it’s from this
that we will cut our ovals to fill our little metal bezels. So there are a couple different ways that
you can cut your shapes to fit inside your bezels. Depending on what kind of shape you have,
you can just press the bezel onto the clay and then that will make a mark and you can
use a craft knife to cut it out. Alternately if you have cutters that match
the shape, you can just use those. I have this set of Kemper cutters. They’re oval shaped and I was actually fortunate
in that they’re pretty close. This one is almost the exact same size. It’s the same height. It’s just a little wider than I need. So what I can do is just go ahead and cut
that out and then because it’s a little wide, I’m just going to cut a little crescent off
of it. And you want your pieces to be a little small
rather than large for your bezels. So here’s that. Now my bezels have a bit of a dip in the bottom. Perhaps you can see that. They’re kind of concave rather than flat. So what I’m going to do is take this little
bit that I cut off and fill in that space. So you may or may not have to do this depending
on the shape of your bezels. Just because I want them fairly flat in the
bezel. So now that that’s filled in I can take this. And now I want to add a bit more dimension. So we’ve got the gold leaf and the ink under
the translucent and there’s even a little bit of leaf and smears of ink on top of the
translucent from when I slid it off the tile, which is great, but I want a little bit more. So what I have here is this scrap of card
stock. I just dug it out of my trash and I’m going
to press on this clay over here. One of the things that happened when I was
doing this before without the translucent on top was the little bits of gold kept coming
off on me as I tried to press these into the bezels. Of course now it doesn’t appear that any of
the gold bits are coming off, but what I can do is use this to press this into the bezel
and you want it just a smidge lower than the level of the bezel. So if you’re not getting any gold bits, these
little extra gold pieces that are on the edge, I’m just using my fingernail kind of cutting
off little tiny pieces and you want them pretty much random. Random, but organized the way you want. Then I’m just going to take this piece of
paper, hat way I won’t be leaving fingerprints, and burnish in that clay right into the bezel. Peel it off gently and there you go. Now that’s ready to go into the oven. The one thing I liked better about doing it
without the translucent clay was that I could see the section and choose a section that
I liked, but that’s okay. It works out well. Speaking of liking, if you like this video,
be sure to give it a thumbs up and share and subscribe if you haven’t already and you want
to see more. I upload new tutorials every Tuesday and Friday. It’s a lot of fun making them for you guys
and I hope you enjoy them. So I’m just kind of filling that one in and
then I’ll do the same on this little one. And by the way, if you’ve benefited from these
videos, consider becoming a patron. You can support this channel with a dollar
a month or whatever you can afford because I use supplies. I buy tools and materials to show you so it’s
nice if you want to help out. See my Patreon page for details. In testing and playing with this, I did one
of these bezels with the clay that was actually a little above the level of the bezel and
that made it tricky later on when I was adding the resin dome. So try not to have it above the level of the
bezel… the level of the bezel. So once you have these ready we’ll put them
in the oven at the manufacturer’s recommended temperature. I put mine in for half an hour to make sure
they were fully cured. So here are the pieces fresh out of the oven
and once they came out of the oven, I put them into some ice water. That helps clarify your clear clay. The next thing you want to do is find some
kind of a blunt tool. Nothing too sharp. I wouldn’t recommend using an awl because
it could damage your pieces, but some kind of tool to go in and just go into the edge
and gently lever out your clay pieces. Just do them one at a time so that you don’t
mix up the pieces and then just go ahead and add a drop of super glue and glue all of your
pieces back into the bezels. So now that your pieces are out of the oven
and glued into the bezel if you want, you can hold off on that step, now it’s time to
add the resin dome. And here I’ve added it to a couple of the
other pieces. A couple reasons why I didn’t show you these
is one of these pieces, the clay actually came up over the edge of the bezel and the
resin wanted to run off really quickly. So what I ended up doing was I actually put
it on the tile, stood by my back door, added the drops of the resin and then went right
outside into the sun so it would start curing before it had a chance to drip off. So I couldn’t show you that very easily. This is Lisa Pavelka’s Magic Glos. I use it so much I bought a big bottle. Although here’s a tip for you: if you do buy
the big bottle, save or get a small bottle as well. I foolishly threw away my small bottle and
you really have a lot more precision and accuracy with the nozzle in that bottle. So I need to pick up another one. But you can do this. So as you’re applying the resin to your piece
you will notice it has a very strong surface tension. Here’s one drop and I don’t know if you can
see that it’s quite domed. You really don’t want to add too much. I found for these smaller ones about 3-4 drops
is plenty. Now if you do put too much on or for whatever
reason it starts to spill over the edge, don’t panic! All you need to do is use a paper towel, wipe
it up, use a baby wipe, clean the whole thing well and then start over. See like one is spilling over here. So I probably put a little too much on so
I’m going to clean that up, put it on again and then I’ll put these out in the sun or
if you have a UV light, that’s great. And here are a few of my pieces with the resin
all cured. You can see it makes this beautiful glassy
dome that really shows off the layers of depth that you’ve created with your clay and your
translucent and inks and foils. It’s quite beautiful. Now here are a few that I made earlier and
you can see that I made just one layer here. I didn’t do the translucent on the second
layer and so you can see more clearly the original crackled gold leaf. It’s just a different look. The reason I abandoned this way of doing it
is like I said, the gold leaf kept pulling off the more I manipulated it. It just kept coming off in chunks and it wasn’t
as attractive. Now one thing I forgot to mention earlier
is that sometimes when you buy these metal looking pieces at the craft store, sometimes
they are acrylic so you want to be sure to test them. I just took one of these after I had popped
out the rhinestone that came in them, I just threw it in the oven while I was baking some
other clay and made sure that it was not going to melt. And then you can see here I’m waiting for
my other two that I just did to cure, but I just wire wrapped on some Swarovski crystals
and then I will add a clasp and my bracelet will be done. You can see a picture of the finished project
at the very end of the video. So if you’re interested in the supplies I
used, there’s a link at the upper right and the description box to go to my blog post. Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already
and check out my Patreon page to help support these videos. Here’s another look at the project we made. Thanks for watching. Happy creating. Bye bye!


  1. Hi Sandy ,they look a lot better that way, as before there was no color, a d looked boring,, when you showed the bracelet first, now its bling bling, love the colors that you picked, really beautiful now thankyou for sharing.👍👍👍🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌠🌠🌠🌠🌠🌠

  2. I'm so glad i found you! I can make clay pieces, but didn't know what to do with them… you give us jewelry ideas and i love it! thank you so much for sharing your tips, tricks and techniques!! I love it! 💓💓

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