Sleek Bracelet Tutorial

Sleek Bracelet Tutorial


I’m really excited today to get to show you
this Sleek bracelet that I created, that I designed, it’s a very soft, supple bracelet
that you can see that it just kinda folds down into nothingness, so it’s very lightweight
to wear and it just feels so good. Everybody when they wear it they tend to pet it which is
kind of fun. So this is gonna be using our square stitch and then we’re also gonna create
a little peyote tube toggle for the closure on this. And let’s get going on that shall
we? I wanna give you guys a couple of tips on needle threading, because I know that that
can always be an issue for people if you’re using Fireline which is what I recommend to
do my beadweaving with, you have to kind of blunt the tip to get it to go through the
end of your needle. Fireline has a bit of a rounded profile to it so you can just take
your fingernail and rub it on the end there and at that point you will be able to better
thread your needle. The other thing that you want to do when you’re threading your needle
is make sure that you have just a very small bit of thread showing there, the smaller that
tip is, the better off you’re going to be, and then the last tip that I have for you
is think of yourself as taking the needle to the thread instead of the thread to the
needle. And for some reason that motion makes it a little bit easier and faster to thread
your needle. So once you have your needle threaded, we’re going to start working on
the square stitch base, here I’ve already started out a base, I’m using slightly bigger
beads than you would in the project pattern, so you’ll wanna refer to the pattern for the
exact size beads that you need. Here I need to use larger beads so that you can see them
on the video camera. But I’ve created a base here, of square stitch, you’ll want to refer
to my previous tutorials, the flat square stitch technique tutorial for instructions
on how to do flat square stitch and that will get you going. I’m started out already here
and on the next row when I do my square stitch I’m gonna be adding in both an accent color
bead and a bugle bead. To start out we’re going to do the very first stitch with just
a single outline color, outline color is what I tend to call this color, and just like normal,
you’ll go back through that bead that you just added now on the next segment that I’m
going to add here, I’m going to add a bugle bead, and the bugle bead is going to take
up the space of several beads on the previous row. So we’ll only do one bugle bead, in this
case, for 3 beads on the previous row. Because these are larger beads, you’ll want to refer
to your instructions for the project that you’re making to make sure that your using
the same bugle bead to previous beads ratio. So you’ll pick up 1 bugle bead, and then also
1 outline color bead, we’re skipping in this case 3 beads for that bugle bead, and then
you’re gonna stitch through the 4th free bead there, and we’ll stitch just the outline color
in. So now that’s jumped into alignment perfectly there, and we’ll pass through just the outline
color bead. We need to create the center accent color section, so at this point the accent
colors are not stitched in, they actually just sit loose, it’s one of the things that
makes this project very supple, so in this case, I’m just going to pick 6 of these accent
colors, those are not stitched in so that means that I need to pick up 1 outline color
also we’ll skip the 6 on the base, and stitch into the 7th where that outline color will
get stitched in. And you’re only stitching that outline color. So now these are all loose,
and not connected, and the bugle bead is loose. Now we’re at our very last section, that we’re
going to do here, we’re picking up a bugle bead and our last outline bead, we can stitch
in just that outline bead, *voila* And then just like you do with any normal square stitch,
you’ll have to go back and reinforce those 2 rows. Now because in this particular case
I’m using the larger beads I may have to do it in more than 1 pass, I don’t think I can
get my needle all the way across reliably, so it’s totally fine if you can only get through
some of the beads at a time, and that’s what I’m doing here. (catch those last 4) And then
now we’ll go back through the row that we just added, to reinforce that, flip our piece,
and we’re going to do the exact same thing again. The way we create this, we’re going
to be creating increases as we go along, but what you’ll do is you’re going to have 3 rows
where you’re going to have the 6 accent colors in the center there, so once you get to the
3 row point with these, then I’m going to come back and we’re going to show you how
you’re going to do the increases. Now that you’ve got this all figured out about adding
the accent beads and the bugle beads I’m going to throw a little curve ball at you. We’re
going to start adding additional accent beads in each set of 3 rows as we go along. it’s
going to create this nice soft V effect, increasing outward, and gives a really sculpted look
to the bracelet. So let’s take a look at the beads Here I have gone ahead and finished
up my 3 rows, where I added just the 6 beads of accent color in the center when I go to
do the next row, everything is going to be the same. We’re going to start out with that
outside color bead, we’re going to do our bugle bead, (hello Mr. Bugle) and an outside
color bead, and then this time when I pick up beads for the accent section I’m going
to pick up 7 beads instead of 6, and then I still pick up a single outline color here
as I do the stitch, and pass through that outline color. Now you’re noticing that it’s
kind of bowing out, because it’s obvious there’s a whole extra bead in there, like that, what
you can do to kind of help adjust this as you go along is, I do a little wiggle, you
gotta give it a little wiggle, and I’m kind of pulling outward giving it a little more
room as it goes along, this will suck up as we add more rows, so don’t worry about it
too much, but periodically that’s my making room, kind of motion is just giving it the
little wiggle with the little outward pull. Then we will go ahead and finish this row
with a bugle bead and an outline color bead, and then you would just go back and do your
reinforcing of these 2 rows. So from here on out what you’re going to do is you’ll do
another 2 rows with 7 beads of accent color, then you’ll do 3 rows with 8 beads of accent
color, and you’ll continue adding 1 extra accent color bead for each 3 rows until you
get to the number that is referenced in your pattern. And that will give you something
that looks like this. And once you get to the point where you have gotten to that maximum
number at the center point, then come back to me and we will talk about sizing, because
sizing will be important in the next step. It’s important for us to talk about sizing
with this bracelet because you’re going to make the adjustments to your sizing in the
middle section of it, so you kinda need to know what’s going on with that. If you don’t
already know what your bracelet size is, many people do already, but if you don’t, here’s
how you would figure that out, you take a tape measure and you place it around your
wrist and come up with that number, in my particular case, come on here buster, my particular
case that works out to about 7 inches, so once you get that 7 inch mark, then you will
need to add some for ease and that means how you like that bracelet to fit on your wrist,
I like my bracelets to be a little on the loose side, so I usually add about an inch
to my wrist measurement so that means that I generally wear an 8 inch bracelet. If you
like to wear your bracelets a little closer, some people like them a little more snug,
you might only wanna add a half inch or 3/4 of an inch to your actual wrist measurement
to get your bracelet measurement. So you wanna write that down, what your bracelet measurement
is and then let me show you what’s going on with how this bracelet is constructed, I’ve
broken a bracelet down into 3 different portions here, just so that you can see how it’s all
gonna come together, what you’ve already done is this portion of the increase, and then
we’re going to create a section across the center where we use the same number of beads
along that center. So that it’s flat and straight, and then we’re going to do a decrease section,
where we decrease the same way we increased over here, then we’ll add that clasp on either
end. So what that means is that these 2 pieces are always going to be the same length, and
it’s going to be a defined length because it’s based on how many rows you’ve done, and
I know that because I wrote that into the pattern. In your case, in the pattern for
the Sleek bracelet these will be 2 1/4 inches each, 2 1/4 inch here and 2 1/4 inch here.
Your clasp will add about an inch to the length of the bracelet, so when you take all of that
into account 5 1/2 inches of your bracelet is already accounted for, that means this
center section needs to be whatever the remainder is. So in my case, since I use an 8 inch bracelet,
I would take 8 inches subtract the 5.5 inches of my 2 sides and my clasp and that means
2 1/2 inches is what this center section should measure. Now of course you’re not going to
make it in 3 pieces like this, although you could, but that’s not how we’re going to make
it. You’ll make the increase section then you will continue with that same number of
Delicas as that last row in your increase section, and do the center portion that we
just calculated, for that many rows, at which point we’ll start doing the decreases and
that’s what I’m going to talk about in the next segment is how to do those decreases. Once you get to the decrease section you’re going to find it super easy, you’re going
to just be doing the identical thing that you did on the increase section but this time
you’re subtracting 1 of those accent beads every time you finish 3 rows, and you will
do that all the way down, until you have finished 3 rows with 6 accent beads in the center.
And that’s where I am on this piece here, I have decreased down until I have done the
last 3 rows with 6 accent beads in the center here, I also want to point out to you that
these rows, there might be a little bit of wonky-ness in how they’re laying, some people
actually, and that’s fine to have some of that wonky-ness, but some people find that
they’re better at the increase section or at the decrease section, and they prefer to
do only increases or decreases, and that’s no problem because what you can actually do
is create 2 stand alone increase sections or 2 stand alone decrease sections and then
join them together with that center section like I showed you before, when we were talking
about the measuring. So that’s an option for you if you would prefer to make it in sections
and then bead those sections together, But here is where I’ve done it all in one piece,
and I have now finished my last decrease section. We have to create the 2 rows of the outline
color only on this other end so that it will mirror the first end, and to do that, the
first row of this 2 row outline color only section is a little bit different. Because,
you’re going to pick up your first color like normal, your first bead, Now we can’t bead
3 individual beads to this 1 bugle bead because there’s no place for that thread to go, so
what we’ll have to do is bead the 3 beads in as a section, so I’m picking up 3 beads,
and then I’ll pass through that bugle bead, and then pass through the 3 beads that I just
added as a unit. And I betchya I could see this a whole lot better if I put my little
reading glasses on. Oh, now they’re all focus! Ok, so then here we have a single bead, we’re
able to go ahead and stitch that single bead in, and that’s that outline color. And then
once you get to the this accent color section, you have a choice, you can either each one
of these outline colors to these accent colors, but what I prefer to do on this particular
segment is just go ahead and pick up your 6 outline colors (4, 5, and 6) and then I’m
going to pick up 1 more like I would if I had just picked up accent colors, so we’ll
only attach this outside edge one. Here we’re at a bugle bead again so we’ll pick up 3 to
match the bugle bead plus a single for the outside bead so it’d be 4 total and we’ll
just stitch that outside bead in. Still do your reinforcing of the 2 rows like you normally would, and if you’re really lucky,
you get to get it all in one fell swoop, one needle pass, looking on the back side to make
sure that I don’t have any thread showing as I do that. And then we’ll pass through
the new row that I just added Ok, then for the very last row on this one we’re just going
to go ahead and attach this last row one bead at a time, like you did at the very start
with your square stitch. And you’ll keep going and complete that row, once you finish that
we’re going to come back one more time and we’re going to talk about your clasp. You are so close to a finished bracelet at this point, all we have to worry about is the clasp.
And the way I do a clasp on this particular bracelet is I like to use a beaded closure,
I think that it creates kind of a seamlined effect, you know, when it’s all the same colors
and the same beads and you don’t notice the clasp nearly as much and I use a peyote tube
toggle on this, you’re going to want to refer to the peyote tube toggle technique tutorial
that I have posted previously, if you don’t already know how to make one of those, But
let’s talk about how you’re actually going to attach it to the bracelet. Here I have
created basically what I’m calling a Barbie bracelet, this is a slightly smaller scale
version, you can see that this isn’t gonna fit anybody except Barbie. But it has all
the different pieces and parts in it, you’ve got the increase, we’ve got the center section
and then we’ve got the decrease, finished off those last 2 rows there. I’ve already
got a peyote tube toggle, this one is made out of slightly larger beads than the sample
is but everything that I’m going to show you is the same exact techniques so there’s really
no reason worry about that. When you’ve finished off by reinforcing those last 2 rows, it has
you coming out the end bead here, and what we wanna do is be coming out one of these
more centered beads to attach our toggle bar, so what you’ll have to do is you’ll have to
jog over there. I’m going to go through a couple of beads here, on the previous row,
and one of the things about square stitch is that because you’re reinforcing all those
rows, you end up adding a lot of thread through the center of these beads. And the beads can
get kind of clogged up with thread, if necessary, you can use a flat nose pliers to pull your
needle through the beads if it starts getting super tight there and you start having issues,
in this case, because I’m demonstrating on larger than normal beads, I’m actually being
able to get through there quite easily but generally you’re going to start seeing some
problems getting your needle and thread through these outside edges beads, Once you get to
the proper location you’ll wanna refer to the directions in your tutorial for the exact
location, this sample is not exactly the same size of the sample that you’ll make from the
tutorial. But once you get to that spot on that first row, you’re gonna pick up 4 more
of your outline color beads, I like to make the clasp all the same color, again because
I just think that you don’t notice it nearly as much, but you know what? That’s a design
decision and if you wanted to use your accent color beads for your closure that’s no problem
either. This is just a simple design element. So I picked up 4 beads, then what you’re going
to do is you’re going to get your toggle bar, and you’re going to eyeball it and you’re
going to find 2 beads on the diagonal that are centered in your toggle bar, and generally
I’m able to just eyeball it and kind of see where that is, if you are having trouble getting
your needle through 2 beads here on the diagonal, you can actually just kinda twirl it, find
the next 2 beads on the diagonal there on the center. I will sometimes go through and
find which one my needle and thread goes through the easiest, because I’m going to want to
be able to come back through here and reinforce this clasp area again. So I want to make sure
that I can get that through nice and easy. After I’ve attached that bar, we’re going
to pick up another 4 of your outline color beads and then you’re going to bring it right
back in to that first row on your bracelet, So I came out on one side, and I’m going back
in on the other side. So that this will be centered on your bracelet end. And that’s
what it looks like when you bring it all in, when you tighten everything up. Your clasp
is an area that gets a lot of wear and tear on any bracelet and most times when you have
a failure of your thread it tends to be in the clasp area because it just gets knocked
around the most which is why I recommend that you follow this thread path and reinforce
it at least 2 more times. My rule of thumb is I want 3 passes of thread through any closure
area. So to reinforce you’re simply going to pass through all those beads again and
just not add anything new except that thread. So up through the 4, through the 2 on the
diagonal in the toggle bar, down the 4 over here, across the center to get to the other
side, Make sure you’re not catching your thread on anything, and then you’ll do that one more
time and then you’re able to finish off this thread. On the other side, you’re going to
have to create the loop, so I always add my toggle bar first because you’re going to have
to measure the loop, to make sure that it will go over your toggle bar, in this case
of course I’ve got the gigantisaurus toggle bar. But on the other end, here on this piece
I’ve already got a thread attached so I’m going to use that and just pretend, on your
toggle end, you’re again going to pick up 4, coming out in the same place on that last
row, you’re picking up 4 of your outline color beads, and then you’re going to pick up enough
beads for the loop. And in your pattern I tell you how many beads is as a guesstimate,
the reason I say that’s a guesstimate is because not all beads are created equal, even if they’re
the same size beads, you tend to have those ones that are a little bit skinnier or a little
bit fatter, you know how that goes, and so it can affect the sizing of your loop. So
I’m going to show you how you’re going to test the sizing of your loop. In this case,
I don’t really know how many I need so I’m just going to kind of pick up what I know
is probably going to be too few, but I’ll show you how I’m going to know that in a second.
You’re going to go back to that 4th bead from the beginning, and you’re going to pass through
it again, in the opposite direction so back towards the bracelet, and if you need to you
can separate it all out, which, once you’ve come back through gives you an approximation
of what your final loop is going to be. And this is the point at which you can take your
toggle bar and make sure that it goes through nicely, and like I said, because this is Gigantisaurus
it’s not going to, but in your pattern I give you the exact number that I used, your mileage
may vary, your beads may need an extra 1 or 2 beads or you may find that it’s a little
too loose and you may have to take off 1 or 2 beads so that number that I give you in
your pattern is just for a starting place. Once you have assured yourself that this loop
is the right size, then we’re going to go ahead and finish off that other leg, so now
I’m going to pick up just 3 beads, for this leg, we’ll pass through the adjacent spot
on the opposite side, and now we’ve got that little V shape going on. And just like I did
with the toggle bar section, I suggest that you reinforce this whole pathway at least
2 more times and then end off your thread. At which point, you will have your finished
bracelet, and that will include your toggle closure which will fit perfectly like so.
Ok now here’s the thing: what if you get the bracelet all made, you’ve finished your clasp,
you go to try it on, and Oh no, it’s a couple of rows too small, or it’s a couple of rows
too big? here’s one of the things that I really love about square stitch, we are going to
be able to adjust that sizing, after the bracelet is completely made very easily. And this is
an unusual thing, most stitches you can’t do this, but we’re just going to pretend that
the other loop end is on here, and what I’m going to do is, say this is a little bit too
big and I want to remove a couple of rows, I’m going to make sure that I’m in that center
section, you know the section where we just kept the same number as we went along when
we were doing our sizing, and I can literally just cut this bracelet apart and it will not
fall apart. This is the part of the demonstration where pretty much falls over and gasps, when
I cut this thing apart, but look, I’m tugging on this and it’s not coming apart at all,
the reason it’s not coming apart at all, there’s a couple little threads to pull out, extra
threads, that are kind of tucking out, but other than that it’s not coming apart. And
the reason you can do this is because we reinforced from both sides on square stitch, so that’s
one of the benefits to square stitch, Once I’ve cut the bracelet into pieces you can
go ahead and remove or add whatever you need to get your sizing correct so if this bracelet
had been too small, what I could do is add several rows at this point, just the way we
did previously, and then we would join the 2 pieces together, If what you need is to
remove rows because your bracelet was a little bit too big, what you can do is simply cut
out however many rows you need to remove, get rid of any of those extra little threads
going on that are kinda poking out, and then here is how you’re going to put these pieces
back together. It’s really very simple because it’s identically what you’ve been doing the
only difference is when you pick up a new bead, it’s one that’s already attached to
another segment. So here I’ve got my thread coming out of the first section (is what I’m
trying to say) and I pass through that outside color bead on that other segment, I’m going
to go through the outside color bead on the first side, then when I go to pick up the
next set of beads, I’m going to work my way to that next outline color and we will stitch
it to this outline color from the first side, notice that I switched from segment to side
so that I can actually say it without sounding like I’m saying naughty words, Ok, and then
stitch through this one, then through all the accent beads in the middle, along the
middle, they don’t want to be all straight for me so I’ll just do it in 2 stitches, come
out the very next outline color, where you’ll stitch it to the corresponding outline color
on the first side. Then work your way to that very last outside color and stitch it to the
outside color on the other side, *voila* and then once you’ve reinforced those 2 rows like
you normally would with a square stitch, you’ll never be able to tell that there was any division
between these 2 pieces, that’s where you can also getting away with creating 2 increase
sections or 2 decrease sections, and stitching them together with the middle, And that, comes
to the end of our bracelet, now this pattern is done as a soft increase and decrease but
there’s no reason you can’t play with that, there is also instruction in the pattern for
how to create this bracelet which is where I just did a single length all the way along
and didn’t do any increases and decreases. You can make an increase and decrease more
dramatic if you want to, you can take some out if you’re a more petite person and you
don’t want it to be quite as wide, it’s completely up to you, those are all design decisions
that you can make. I hope you enjoyed making your bracelet and I would love it if you share
what you create, with me, as you finish it up and wear it in good health. Thank you.

83 Comments

  1. Again I learned something new! In all the times I've used square stitch, I had no idea it could be cut without unraveling! So good to know because I'm not very good at the sizing thing. 🙂

  2. Hi Jill,i LOVE this tutorial video & i enjoy every step even when you cut the Bracelet my heart stop for a second LOL! You're Fabulous & great teacher Jill & to bad for Barbie no fit Bracelet for her LOL« I will make this Bracelet tonight,Thank's for this amazing video! Luv You Jill!

  3. well I'm drastically farsighted currently, anything more than a foot away from my face won't have sharp edges… you're saying it'll all get blurry? SCORE! lol

  4. Love this video….excellent tutorial…thank you so much. Must get the pattern and start on one this weekend…Thank you so much and I am sooo sorry I won't be able to meet you when you visit Milton, FL. Hopefully, you will come visit us here in FL again so that I can meet you in person. Take care and I look forward to seeing more of these wonderful videos 🙂

  5. On your Sleek Bracelet Tutorial the audio is not working. I can hear the ads and the very beginning, but when you talk I can't hear you well enough to understand you. Hope you can get this fixed because I just love that bracelet.

  6. Jill . thank you so much for the tutorial , i understood everything you showed and now i am ready to do a project .. Thank you for making everything so easy to understand .. Such a joy to watch .

  7. Say, after you cut the bracelet apart and then was stitching it back together, you went through the outside outline color and then passed the bugle to the inside outline color….shouldn't you have gone through the bugle bead as well? before you went to the inside outline color?

  8. Excellent work and amazing tutorial .. You make your technique very very easy you are really really a  professional teacher .. Thank you very much .

  9. Great tut!  Beading most of my life, I NEVER thought to cut my work to increase or decrease size.  I was a drop jawed viewer!  Also your voice is pleasant to listen to and no annoying camera/music stuff going on.  I will be following YOUR tuts for sure.  Thank you so much for sharing your talent and being a great teacher as well.  Including the made up words (we all do it!) which added humor.   Namaste'

  10. I would love to try to make this. One thing and I might have missed this, what length thread, what type of thread is preferred, what size beads. I try to keep track of what sizes cause what effects. Thanks Hmmmm maybe I missed something

  11. what brand of seed beads do you use please? the ones I buy locally are not even in length quite often which is most annoying.

  12. Notice how I used the word side instead of segment so I don't sound like I'm saying naughty words…. I like you already! Lol subscribed!! You did an amazing job and beautiful bracelet!

  13. Absolutely love your videos!! i was a complete beginner and you made it seem so simple!! one question though – is flat square stitch the same as brick stitch?

  14. +Thank you for this great tutorial. I bought the pattern as I know I'll be giving away lots of these to friends at holiday times.

  15. you don't tell us what size beads to use, how many of each color, what size bugle beads, and how long to make the outline (gold) beads…..  please do this for us!!!
    thanks

  16. Hi Jill, thank you for the great tutorial. i finished the decrease version yesterday and now working on the same bracelet but just even rows no decreasing. The finished bracelet is just beautiful, it sparkles and shines and I see people looking at it when I go out. I ordered a whole bunch of beads in other colours for new bracelets and I'm planning to make bracelets for my family. Again thank you so much!
    Greetings from Holland

  17. I finished this bracelet yesterday. It's gorgeous! Very bead- and thread-intensive, not to mention that it takes a lot of time! But the finished product is just beautiful. It is, indeed, very sleek and fun to touch. I watched the "other video" of you making this bracelet, and the technique is somewhat different. I followed THIS video for my project, though, as I preferred this technique. I took your sizing tips off the other video. 🙂
    Nice job, Jill! This is a gorgeous pattern, and you teach the 'increase/decrease' technique so well. I wish I knew how to share photos of your projects I've done!

  18. mercie pour toute ses vidéos j'ai appris beaucoup de chose grasse a vous vos explications sont très claire et je vous recommande a mes collègues 

  19. @Jill Wiseman just wanted to say thank you, out of all the beading and jewellery channels I have looked at on youtube, yours is by far the best.  Not only do you explain things so well and in layman's terms but also you allow the viewer to see exactly what you are doing as you're doing it.  Your channel has really helped me. 

  20. I have a long history with crafts but I am new to sleek bracelets and my first one is white and cream with a square stitch. I am not sure how to end it so I was wondering if you could put up a few videos with different clasps. I have bought a few different ones.

  21. Jill, awesome tutorial! What size/weight fireline do you recommend for weaving? I don't want to choose a line that's too thick for the beads! thank you so much.

  22. Yeah!!! I found you!! I watched your tutorials on Beaducation and loved you best of all the teachers (all were great though)!

  23. If one wanted to make a thinner (width) version of this bracelet- is it as simple as 1/2'ing the number of beads or is there a specific way you would go about doing it? Thank you so much for your help- love your tutorials!! 🙂

  24. Вы такая молодец! Умничка! Я Вами восхищаюсь! Спасибо Вам за уроки! У Вас очень красивые получаются украшения! Я у Вас учусь! Хотя я не знаю языка но все равно смотрю и делаю как вы! Спасибо!!!

  25. Making this now!!! Took me along time to decide I could actually do this. Silly how we are with ourselves and new techniques! This is Fun to do and beautiful!!! Thanks Jill!

  26. You just gave me some amazing ideas for embroidering this dress i'm making……

    none of the embroidery vids were this helpful….. Jewelry making is the same thing just minus fabric lol thank you so much for this tutorial who knows i might add jewelry to my collection 😛

  27. I've not seen that particular colour of bugle bead. Would you mind letting us know what the name is of those? I don't see them for sale on your site. I just love those so much! I also love all your vids and designs. <3

  28. Hi Jill, you are a wonderful teacher, mentor and  you inspire me ! for the sleek bracelet , if I use 15 delicas what size bugle do I use

  29. Jill I made the bracelet and i live it .I am 80 years old and learning and trying new thing ,I have a bit of problem with the toggle bar My eyes are not to good any more ,.Thank you .

  30. A good tutorial will give complete information of materials used as size of beads, and the proper name of bead, not all of us the have a full knowlage of the beads used. thanks

  31. Hi Jill..I love your designs..I love to make beaded jewelry. I don't have any formal education about jewelry making but I have too much interest..so where I need to take this classes etc. I want to talk with you about how to contact you I need some advice from you . can you help me in this case please? My email is [email protected]

  32. سلام خسته نباشیداگه امگانش هست این نوشت روبرداریدنمیشه دیدچکارمیگنید

  33. I been trying to find a tutorial video on connecting sections when using square stitch. I’m making a pouch and need to connect the sides and bottom of the pouch somehow. I didn’t use a pattern just freehanded square stitch. I would also like to connect a tubular bead weave to make it all into a medicine pouch necklace….help I cant find any videos on how to connect pieces…there are a bunch for connecting hitting pieces but no square stitch my email is [email protected]

  34. My bugle beads keep breaking due to forcing needle or thread. I am using recommended materials. Could I be doing something wrong?

  35. Hi Jill, beautiful bracelet! Any chance you have this in a kit? Love the pattern, love the color, love, love, love

  36. I watch your videos all the time and made a lot of your projects. The one thing I can't seem to find is your beading mat. It gorgeous. If you could let me know where I could get one I'd be a very happy beader. Thank you 😄😊💜

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