Soldering Copper Pipe Basics + Noisy Pipes / Water Hammer Fix

Soldering Copper Pipe Basics + Noisy Pipes / Water Hammer Fix

Alright so today on Repairs101 I�m going
to go over the basics of soldering copper pipe by cutting into an existing water line
and installing an air chamber cushion to fix noises known as �water hammer�.
OK safety first � do not use solder containing lead like I have here for plumbing to the
kitchen, bathroom, garden or barn. It�s only to be used for heating systems and plumbing
to machinery. Now you�ll need a pipe cutter. They have
one cutting wheel and two idlers and the pipe gets cut by increasing the tension to the
cutting wheel bolt and circling the pipe. Now once you�re sure you�ve got all the
water out of the system you�re going to want to thoroughly clean all of the points
that you�re going to apply solder to using some fine sandpaper, including the ends and
the insides of brand new stuff, too. Solder paste or flux does a couple of different
jobs � it�s going to remove oxidation, prevent further oxidization of the surfaces
that are going to be joined and it draws solder onto those surfaces.
Once you�re thoroughly coated in flux � fit it all together and then wipe away the excess
paste. So the pipe creates a chamber of air trapped
above the flow of water. When a shock is created by the sudden stop to the flow of pressure
water, the water compresses the trapped air and releases its energy in doing so.
I use propane generally but you can use oxy-acetylene, Map gas or even butane.
I like a nearly clear flame with a blue tipped center.
Heat the parts evenly until the flux starts to boil. Then it will be hot enough to liquefy
the solder. While some fluxes may require acetone to clean
up, water soluble solder paste should clean up with just a wet rag.
Alright, thanks for watching and don�t forget to subscribe!


  1. You might have done it but a person needs to ream out the pipe after cutting to get rid of the burs. Also I'd recommend MAP gas, propane is too cold. With a hotter fuel, you can add solder to the joint quickly, and you don't have to keep adding solder and get a bunch of extra melted on the outside of the pipe. If I was doing a tee fitting like you did I'd do the horizontal pipe first, then the vertical. The warm air rising off the bottom of the joint will heat the upper portion of the tee.

  2. I don't think these home made shock absorbers work. As an experiment, I made one with clear tubing. Within a few days it was mostly full of water and lost the air cushion.

  3. make's you want to do your own video?
    if that was serviceable and had a bleed valve those are very effective better to install where the problem exists bathroom sink kitchen sink and so on I'm a maintenance pipefitter from the railroad 26 years I always wipe copper off with a wet rag to neaten it up and I have never had a leak,🤞 use 100% lead-free solder and drinking water rated white flux paste… thanks for the video,
    PS. you've could have done it perfectly and would still have negative comments,
    good job none the least*

  4. If you wipe the solder with wire wool when its hot it gets rid of all the lumps and leaves your pipework beautifully smooth. It's only cosmeticly relevant but it looks professional.

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