SOTA Silver Pulser – Model SP7 – How to Make Ionic Colloidal Silver

SOTA Silver Pulser – Model SP7 – How to Make Ionic Colloidal Silver

Hello, I’ll be demonstrating the use of
the ionic colloidal silver feature of the SOTA Silver Pulser. Shown here is our
latest model the model SP7. The Silver Pulser is powered by a 9 volt
alkaline style battery shown here. The battery that comes with your unit
may have a protective covering over the terminals. Please make sure that you peel
that protective covering off in order to expose the battery terminals so they’ll
connect it within the unit. I’ll show you what it looks like with the
protective covering removed. As you can see, the terminals are now open. Please
always use an alkaline style battery and not a heavy-duty heavy battery. Heavy duty batteries don’t have the deep capacity that’s required to run the unit to full
efficiency. You can also use rechargeable batteries and I’ll talk about those in a
little bit. To insert the battery into the unit, turn it over and on the back here we see the battery compartment lid. Simply slide
that off. If you look inside there’s two plastic rings with indicators on
them – there’s a lower larger ring with a minus indicator and a smaller upper ring
with a positive indicator and that helps us to align the battery. Inside you see two metal prongs. Those need to come in contact with the battery terminals. Before we put the battery in, we need to make sure those are pulled forward – if they’re not
already – so they make good contact with the battery. They’re spring
metal – and you simply take your finger and grab the corner of it. Just pull
it forward so it’s at an angle which will contact the battery properly. On the battery, there are two terminals: The bottom one is a lower
negative terminal (the larger one) and at the top is a smaller positive terminal.
You simply line it up in this fashion, slide it in, click it into place, put your
battery lid back on and turn the unit over. I’ll turn the unit on and you should
see a green on light. That tells me the unit is ready to go and and the battery is working fine. With rechargeables – I have here
a nickel metal hydride 9 volt rechargeable battery – this has a capacity
of 250 milliamp hours and that capacity rating tells you basically how much
energy is contained within the battery. If you get a battery with a higher
milliamp hour rating, the battery will simply last longer. There are also
different types of chemistries, like the nickel cadmium. They may not last as
long, but both of these rechargables work quite well because you’re not going through batteries like you would with alkalines. The alkalines may actually have a longer life, just because they hold a deeper cycle. One thing about rechargeables which you need to make note of is – although they’re all the same shape, the size may vary because of different tolerances, and we have no
control over that – so if you’re going to buy a rechargeable battery, please if
you have an opportunity, try the battery in the unit first to make sure
it fits because it may be a little bit larger and may not fit the unit and you
don’t want to be committed to buying something let’s say over the Internet – if
the battery doesn’t fit in properly. Other than that it works really
well. . . and happy pulsing. When making ionic colloidal silver you do have the added option of using an external power supply like a wall adapter – an AC to DC wall
adapter shown here. The wall adapter we have which you can purchase from
SOTA is rather unique: First of all, it has a universal input, meaning that you
can use this in any country – but what’s important is that you purchase it
with the blades that fit the wall socket in your country. What’s unique about
our little wall adapter is that you can pop the blades out and put the new ones
in for your country. The Silver Pulser requires 6 – 12 volt DC input at a
minimum of 500 milliamps, center positive. Our wall adaptor is rated at 12 volt DC
output, 1500 milliamps which is 1.5 amps and a
polarity of center positive. It’s perfectly suited to run the unit.
What’s very important – if you don’t use our wall adapter -then the wall
adapter you use needs to have the polarity as tip or center positive in order to properly work with the unit. The barrel is 2.1 mm, center or tip positive. If the polarity is reversed it won’t hurt the unit – but the unit simply won’t turn on. To use it on the unit, it’s simple: At the end of the Silver Pulser there’s a jack for the DC power supply. Simply plug it into place. Now you can keep the battery
in the unit, it won’t be harmed because internal circuitry will bypass the
battery as you’re using the external wall adapter. Or you can take the battery
out – it’s your choice. For our demonstration purposes here, I’m going to leave the battery in the unit and not use the wall adapter. The Silver
Pulser has a low battery warning indicator; it’s a red light that comes on
at the bottom of the unit. At the same time there’s also an audible beep. It’s
going to beep a few times to let you know it’s time to change the battery. Okay our next step now is to connect the
silver wires to the silver wire holder. We’re going to then plug the silver wire holder into the Silver Pulser unit. Now, the silver wires that
come with your unit are very high-grade purity. They’re 99.99% pure fine silver.
That’s equivalent to 0.9999 grade. You can go as low as 99.9% which is the same
as 0.999 grade – but never use sterling silver which has toxic impurities
within the silver. When using the silver wire holder, there’s two little lever clamp mechanisms on the top side and by moving the lever sideways it actually clamps the silver
wires that are pushed into the holes. I flip it over you see there’s two holes
in the bottom. I mean it’s very simple, you’re going to take a silver wire, and
you’re going to put it into the hole. Flip the unit over. move the lever and
clamp the wire. I’ll do that with a second one: So turn it over put the silver
wire in there, move the lever, and it holds it into place. As you can see, it’s adjustable by pulling the wires up and
down or you can just move the levers and reposition the wires for the height that
you need. We’ll talk about that later. At the other end of this silver wire
holder is our USB connector. The USB connector is specific to our
purposes. Never plug that into a computer and don’t use a computer USB to plug
into the Silver Pulser unit. On one side of the USB connector, we see the USB symbol and on the other side is blank. The side with the symbol shows you the
top of the connector. To plug it in to the Silver Pulser unit it’s
real simple: We have the USB jack on the end of the unit and we turn it over in
this fashion. I’ll turn the unit on and when you turn it on for making colloidal
silver, of course the green light comes on – but you don’t need to turn the volume
up or the intensity. Just turn it on. It’s a completely different circuit than the
micro pulsing circuit. At this point, I do want to test to make sure
that the silver wire connection is working. I’m going to take the two silver
wires and cross them and connect them – touch the two together like this. You
should see the orange silver light come on, on the Silver Pulser unit. That
tells us that the silver wires are making good contact with the silver wire
holder, and that the USB connection, the unit and the circuitry are working
perfectly. At this point in time, please make sure that your low battery warning
light isn’t on, because then of course you’ll have to replace the battery and
at this stage we’re actually ready to make colloidal silver. Okay we’re ready to start making the colloidal silver. I have a glass here filled with 16 ounces which is 2 cups or 500 ml of distilled water. I want to talk about the water because it’s really important for
you to know this. We want to make sure that we use the purest water possible
and distilled water, has the least amount of impurities in it. We don’t want to use
reverse osmosis or filtered water, tap water or spring water because these types of
waters have minerals or salts that could increase the conductivity of the water, adding impurities and actually not producing the kind of colloidal silver we want. We’ll actually have problems with this water later, so always use distilled water. Even different brands of distilled water, you’ll find that some are more pure
than others – so that’s always going to be the mitigating factor when making
colloidal silver. The silver wire holders have the silver wires in place and it’s real simple: You put the silver into the glass
on the holder – you want to make sure it’s centered in the glass itself and also
make sure that the bottom of the silver wires is about an inch or an inch and a
bit above the bottom. If it’s too low, you just simply adjust it slightly
by pulling the silver wires up. If they are too close to the bottom of the glass or too close to the sides, due to electrostatic attraction
you may get some build up and it doesn’t disperse properly in the
glass itself – so just try to keep it equidistant around. The next step of
course is simply to turn the unit on. We turn the unit on.The green light
comes on and right away you should see the orange silver light. That tells us
that there must be a current flow through the silver wires, through the
water and into the unit and turning the light on. We’re actually making colloidal
silver right now. If your water is very very pure in other words, if you have an
extremely high purity distilled water, that silver light may not come on
to its full intensity until maybe 10-15 minutes. Don’t be alarmed, it’s just
building up and eventually will reach its full intensity after about 15 minutes.
The process that we use for making our ionic colloidal silver is called a
“constant current method”. What that means the silver comes off the silver wires at
a very very controlled rate and we make very pure silver with that method. With
that method though, we don’t have any starters; we don’t boil the water, we
don’t add salt, we add no impurities whatsoever, but the brewing
time then is 2 hours for 16 oz/ 500 ml/ 2 cups – and we will get
about 5-8 parts per million. At the end result, we will see a color
change in the water. It might be clear, it might take on a pale
yellow or a deep golden color. But as I’m looking at this, I can see bubbles forming on the wires. That tells me
that the solution is actually brewing. In about an hour’s time, you might want to clean the wires of some residue. You may get some oxidation buildup because we’re dealing with water – H20 and
there’s oxygen, and we’re dealing with silver. It’s real simple: You simply take
the silver wires out of the glass, get a tissue paper and wipe them clean. You may see residual on the paper. Now this is interesting let me show you: The light is of course turned off because the silver wires have been removed. But when we place the silver wires back in the water, the light will come on again. Please make sure it does. At this time
you might want to swish the water around to evenly disperse the
ions and continue the process. I mentioned that it goes for 2 hours. When
we brew it for 2 hours we’re going to get to the point where we reach
the 5 – 8 parts per million. It’s fairly constant if we have the correct water – the distilled water that we use. It’s very high purity. We may get a slight color change. As I mentioned before, it could turn a slight golden color or even a bit of a yellow color. It could also be clear. This is still good colloidal silver. We know it’s working because the silver
light is on. If you go past the 2 hours what happens is that you start getting
more particles of silver in the solution, and what that does it creates a color
change. It also increases the parts per million so now you might be going
from between 5 – 8 you may go from 8 – 10 or 8 – 12. It’s not bad, it just means that you’re getting more silver in the water, the longer it brews. We’d like you to stick to 2 hours because we know it’s going to give you consistent results. If there are
problems with the water or any kind of impurity, the color change may go to a
deeper yellow color, deep, or it could even be a rusty color. And if
you have some issues, it could even be more of a black or gray color. I’m
going to go over the different colors later on in the video. But for now if
after 2 hours it’s nice and clear, or a slight golden color, or pale yellow – you’re making really good colloidal silver. So we’re doing really well here. After you’ve brewed for 2 hours, you
simply turn the turn machine off, take your silver wires out of the
solution, and wipe them down with tissue paper. I can already see oxidation built up on the wires and I’ll be covering cleaning the wires a
little bit later on. And we’re done, we’re ready to go. Over time, and you may find that
your silver wires have either tarnished or oxidized. This is normal and expected
and part of the process. The oxidation occurs because we have oxygen being
released in the water. When we’re brewing the colloidal silver, the oxygen comes in
contact with the silver – we get silver and silver oxide. I have some wires
here and they have some residual buildup. There are oxides on this.
The first thing you do is take some tissue paper and remove whatever is on the surface of the wires. If you still need to remove more oxides
or tarnish, grab a green scrubby and just pinch the wire and
run it down the wire a few times, turn it around and do the other side and when you’re done – just wipe it clean again with tissue paper. It’s important that you
don’t keep scrubbing it to where you’re getting rid of good silver – you
just want to get the layer of oxide off and then you’re basically ready to go for the next session. It’s as simple as that. Keep your wires nice and shiny. Now making the colloidal silver requires that silver is removed from
the silver wires. This makes perfect sense. We put electricity onto the silver wires
and one of the electrodes or wires is going to give up the silver and
that silver is going to go into the water. Over time that particular
electrode on the one side, will wear out and eventually will become quite thin. But the other side won’t because it’s the return electrode. If you want to double the amount of silver that you’re getting from your silver wires, take the wires out and reverse them. Now you can use the
thicker wire in the side that will be giving up the silver into the solution
and now you’ll be able to wear that one down and almost basically double the
life your silver wires. I’d like to talk to you now about the different colors of colloidal silver that you may notice when brewing it yourself. I’m going to use a white sheet of paper to help
illustrate this a little bit better. So here’s our first three glasses: The 1st
one is clear and it’s actually very high quality colloidal silver. Although how do
I know that there’s silver in there? I’d take a drink and I’d have that
telltale taste; the bitter metallic colloidal silver taste. It’s kind of like
at the back your mouth so at least I know there’s silver in there. This is
virtually perfect. The next one over is slightly golden, or a nice
yellow hue. It’s wonderful colloidal silver. And the 3rd one here is a
little bit darker hue; it’s a bit more golden. Beautiful. These three are
absolutely fantastic.They’re going to fall within the range of 5-8
parts per million. Now if we go over to glass number 4, we see that it’s quite
a bit darker yellow. This one has simply more parts per million of silver
in the glass – so it’s going to be a little bit darker. It’s still great
quality, but if you’re wanting to stick to the 5-8 parts per million range and you want to choose one of these three glasses and try
and get it to that color. I want to show you that this one here is still
excellent, it just has more silver in it. Now let’s take a look at number 5.
Number 5 is where we would kind of draw the line. This particular color
is more of a darker gray. You may even see some flecks of oxides in
there. So what’s happened here? A number of things could contribute to this one.
You might have the wires too close to the sides, or too close to the bottom – and
some silver oxide could have built up. You might have left it out in the light too long
and the silver oxidized and fallen out of solution or precipitated out. This could have been brewed too long. It might have been brewing for 4 or 5 hours
and left unattended, but most likely if the brewing process is held constant, which is very easy to do, chances are it’s the water. You want to use distilled water and always distilled water. You don’t want to use reverse osmosis or filtered water, spring water or any other
kind of water other than distilled water. It has the least amount of impurities in it. We’re trying to get the purest amount of colloidal silver so we don’t add impurities that combine with the silver ions. This particular water, even though it could be made from good quality distilled water, there’re
still variances in the distilled water that come from different manufacturers.
It may not go to this extent, but when you look at the distilled water in a
store – there’s different brands and some may be purer among different
manufacturers. We look for steam distilled water. That works very very
well. You may have your own distiller at home – a stainless steel distiller
that may produce really good quality distilled water. But there may be some
ions in there from the metal/stainless steel of your distiller which
cause impurities, so even though you think it’s very pure, when you’re doing
the brewing process with colloidal silver, you may get some flakes or you
may get some unusual colors like this – so really look at the water. It’s usually
the mitigating factor. Basically with this last batch, I would
probably pour it into my plants or discard it. I would not be drinking this one. The others are fine to drink. If you
want to maintain the 5 – 8 parts per million, then glass 1 2 & 3 are for you. How do you store your freshly
made batch of ionic colloidal silver? You need to use dark glass bottles. We want
to make sure we use glass bottles because glass is really the perfect
storage medium. There are no impurities and nothing
leaches in. The silver doesn’t get pulled out. If you use plastic, of course
you have that plastic polymer that could leach into the your ionic colloidal
silver or the plastic itself could have an electrostatic charge and draw the
silver out of the water. You may not have any silver left! It’s important to
note that silver is actually very light-sensitive so you want to make sure
that it’s in a dark container. If you don’t have access to dark glass bottles –
if you just have clear glass bottles, you can put a dish towel over it and keep it in
a cupboard. Shut the cupboard door to keep the ambient light away. You certainly
don’t want to expose it to sunlight that’s really going to wreck the
colloidal silver. Even ambient light over time, will reduce the potency.
So if you can wrap tin foil around it or use use duct tape for heaven’s sake – there’re many ways you can keep light out of the container. We
don’t want you to store it in the refrigerator – it’s best at room
temperature in a dry dark place and when you store the silver, even in two different sizes, it will actually hold its potency fairly well if it’s stored properly. You may get
two weeks to a month of your silver maintaining its potency quite well. We have silver that we made back in 1998. Testing its potency it still has about 70% left. Si it holds its charge pretty well. But the best thing to do is make make it fresh, store it and
use it up as quickly as possible to get the highest level of charge and potency
available to you. Okay so let’s say you want to make a
larger quantity of the ionic colloidal silver. Now keep in mind that the recipe
that we have making 2 cups/500ml/16 ounces, it’s a tried and
trued method. You’re going to get very precise results: 5-8 ppm – it’s going to be very repeatable and so that’s going to work very well
for you. But let’s say you want to do double that – you want to do 4 cups/32oz/1 litre, which is basically double, just double the time. It’s a
linear relationship. However, if you want to go past that – maybe you want to make a
gallon? You’ll start getting into nonlinearities – in other words it’s not
double that time from 4hours to 8 hours- it’s just not going to work
that way. So what you need to do – this is a guideline because we do
have more information on the web to help you with this – but as a guideline, you will need to stir the ionic silver more frequently and you need to watch for buildup of the silver which you may see accumulating a more. You may have to take the silver wires out clean them more often. Also you need to be very careful by
watching the color. We want to be in that realm of clear, slightly golden to golden color, which I showed earlier. So if you’re in that realm, and you’re able to control that,
you’re going to make some pretty good colloidal silver in larger batches. Good luck with it and I think you’ll find that useful.


  1. Funny. He looks like a semi-smart Marine, turns out he's high on the mental food chain. "…keep that in your…"
    He realized he couldn't say "in your mind" w/o sounding awkward or semi-literate, and at near-lightning speed, came up with "consideration." Nailed it. Unusually sharp mind.

    Anyway, I have several SOTA products, and while I'm convinced my many hours with Lightworks yielded no discernible benefit, the Bio Tuner will blow your mind, almost literally

    Took two different IQ tests, both before and after daily use (2 sessions, same setting, then changing weekly to new setting) for nearly a year, still using it occasionally after six years, and several people who know me think I'm taking genius drugs. Numbers have become lists of numbers. Didn't help me quit smoking AT ALL, as hoped, and still, it's a four-star winner. Very grateful for this device. Brain function, including memory, absolutely better for using this religiously in the beginning.

    I came here to learn about my new SIlver Pulser, hoping it delivers great benefit, too, and still, my Bio Tuner remains among five favorite 'toys and tools' of a long list. I bitch about no free shipping, but, where most devices have been so useless, bio tuner delivered to me in spades.

    Sincere thanks to SOTA, and a comprehensively ass-kicking tutorial in this video. Can't wait to get it up and running. Love, love 🙂

  2. What particle size does the Silver Pulser generate? I'm interested in nano-sized particles. The colloidal silver I bought at the health food store is 0.8 nm which I think means nano-meters. I don't know what ionic silver means, does ionic have to do w/ size or something else?

  3. Great videos,very informative and detailed..I wish the unit had a stirrer and auto shut off,this would be much easier for my busy schedule.

  4. Is deionized water acceptable or just distilled. The distilling process I've heard can draw contaminates from the air. Deionized is suppose to be more pure than distilled.

  5. I purchased the unit over a month ago but couldn't for the life of me find distilled water in my country,and when I did just recently it was the last bottle till they re-stocked and not sure when that will be. Can ionized water work which seems to be a bit more available where I am? Also I want to make 4cups instead of two but am using a round glass jar that measures 4cups but leaves a lot of extra space all the way to the brim from the "4cups mark". Do the silver probes have to be fully immersed in water and what allowance am I allowed?

  6. Does your Pulser SP7 employ an internal 1.8K resistor to limit the current to 0.005A (apparently, it's the ideal current for this kind of electrolysis)?   a 9V battery gives about 400mA, that's 100 times more than is needed.

  7. Hello SOTA,I finally found a stainless steel distiller in my country and made my own distilled water (It reads 0,sometimes 2ppm on my TDS meter). I recently brewed colloidal silver with it (followed all instructions to the letter). My orange light came on very bright immediately and I made my silver exactly as shown above. End result,clear solution but with a reading of 12ppm. Am I doing something wrong or is my distilled water not pure enough? Kindly assist.

  8. I do believe in this stuff! im not criticizing this but i myself get criticized when telling people about this every time! So i ask myself where can i see the studies that have been done to show me some proof that this is for real. Last person i spoke to yeah this might work on a few people but not on others.

  9. Will the device supply constant currant throughout the 2 hour process? Or does current increase as more of the silver ions added to water?

  10. Hi SOTA me again!! My silver wires usually accumulate a lot of black stuff during the one hour and two hour mark (I wipe it down at the one hour mark and stir and place them back in)Also the bottom of the glass usually has the black stuff too when am done brewing. Re-watching this video maybe shows me I may be doing something wrong? End result is usually clear liquid but when I pull the wires out (at the two hour mark)some of the black stuff (tiny bit if I don't move the wires around) does get left behind in the colloidal silver,it always reads 10 or 12 parts per million and has a metallic taste but it usually has some of the black stuff floating around. I always clean afresh for every use and place the wires as far up the glass as I can but I keep getting the same results. Please advice,I'd hate to be making it wrong as I've been using it for quite some time now.

  11. Hi, When I make the colloidal water, I got a dark spot in the bottom of the glass, and I change the water brand, and even change the glass for a bigger one, and still have the same dark mark. The water is clear. I use a little less than 2 cups for 1hr and 50min. I am not sure if this dark-mark is expected??? Is this water good to drink??? Thanks. I used the latest version – SP7.

  12. Hi there , I just received my silver pulsar within 24 hours of ordering ! Thanks !
    Just wondering , if I was to obtain copper wires , could I make colloidal copper with the pulsar ??

  13. hello sota,i have just brewed my first glass of colloidal silver with the pulser and i noticed some small silver particles flowing in the glass,is this ok ?

  14. Greetings SOTA, I've been doing additional research and it seems that there are extra steps to make "true colloidal" silver. 1. It's said that true colloidal silver must have that golden to amber tint, if clear it is ionic. 2. It's being said that to change ionic to colloidal, it may require a "reducing agent". Some form of white powder or other oil Agent. 3. Ionic silver isn't as effective or safe as colloidal and with out proper stirring for electrolysis, you all, Mention stirring, it won't become high level colloidal silver. 4. Many have said that after the ionic silver is made, it should be lightly boiled. And I've noticed you've mentioned boiling in the beginning and in a response you've encouraged boiling distilled. So i just want to be on the right side of this process before i injure myself or anyone else thinking I'm ingesting colloidal but really taking ionic

  15. What is the best way to clean the wire holder? After many hours of use, I've got a blackish build-up on the plastic wire holder where the clips and holes are. I imagine any build-up could interfere with power (like dirty car battery terminals etc)

  16. When Dr. Beck demonstrated making his colloidal silver, it only took a few minutes and he had a good fog of silver in his glass. Granted he used a smaller glass, maybe 10 or 12 ounces. It's still a big time difference. Why such a huge time difference? Was Beck's unit more powerful?

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