Sweat Soldering 14kt Gold to Sterling Silver

Sweat Soldering 14kt Gold to Sterling Silver

Hi I’m Erica Stice and thanks for
watching this video. Since the solder is more controlled with sweat soldering,
this is a great technique to learn. When you sweat solder, it creates a cleaner,
neater bond with less finishing needed at the end. Who doesn’t want that?
And sweat soldering works best with flat surfaces and seams. You can use either a
gold or silver solder when soldering gold to silver pieces, however it’s a
personal preference. If soldering to silver first let’s say, for instance this
is a 14-karat gold piece that I’m going to solder to the sterling silver blank.
Now if I wanted to sweat solder onto this piece first, I would want to put it
in the pickle to clean the fire scale off. But I’m actually going to do the
opposite. I’m gonna go ahead and sweat solder first. My first solder point will
be on this 14-karat gold pieces and I’ll solder that on to this sterling silver
blank. So once I sweat solder my little pallion chip onto this, I will not need
to pickle it since it’s a 14-karat gold.
But that’s how that works, so if you’re, always just remember if you’re sweat
soldering onto sterling silver first make sure you pickle it. So anyway how
you sweat solder, it’s super easy. Let me move this blank out of the way, the large
one, we’ll get back to that one in a minute. Now I’m gonna go ahead and flux
this. Now I’m gonna use medium because I’m actually gonna add wire
embellishments to this piece, which I’ll show in another video. And I’ll use soft
on those. So right now, soft solder, so right now I’ll use medium so that this
join doesn’t reflow when I’m doing the wire. So I’m going to add one little pallion chip. This is such a small piece, I don’t want to add more than that. The
less solder you use the less cleanup always, so always remember that. And I’m
gonna use a small torch tip on this, I’ll move to a larger torch tip when I
actually do this sterling silver blank, because it’s so much bigger. So I want to go in slowly because I
don’t want the flux to pop that little pallion chip off. I’m gonna give that
time to dry. Now I’ll go ahead and hit the piece; so I’m gonna keep moving it the
entire time. And once it melts you want to pull the heat from it. So it’s melted,
so I want to pull the heat now. And now I’m going to actually finish the solder
by allowing this to flow on to the sterling silver blank, so let me get that
set up. Now I’ve cleaned off the sterling silver
blank with an 800 grit sandpaper just to get off any oils or dirt, and I’m going
to go ahead and solder this using a third hand, which is a great tool to have.
You could also do this on a mesh, that’s just your personal choice. Alright so now I’m going to take this
little 14-karat gold piece and I’m going to flip it on to here, let me flux these
both first again. So I’ll flux the sterling silver blank. And flux the
bottom of this little gold piece and flip it over on top of the sterling
silver blank. And I’m gonna leave it right in the center, because I’ve got the
wire to add to this too. And now I’m going to heat this from underneath. I’m gonna
want to put on a bigger torch tip, right now I have a tiny one. Okay, now I’m gonna go from underneath
this, and you’ll always want to keep your torch moving don’t forget. And this protects the 14-karat gold as
well and there, it flowed. Thank you for watching.


  1. When starting with the gold piece, do you have to use gold solder? It seems that silver solder on gold would flow at too high a temperature.

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