Teclast F7 Plus Copper Heatsink Mod – Lower Temps Up To 25 Degrees C

Teclast F7 Plus Copper Heatsink Mod – Lower Temps Up To 25 Degrees C


Hi guys Chris here back with the Teclast
F7 plus this video I’m going to show you how to improve the thermal so it’s gonna
be my copper heatsink mod we’re gonna add a heatsink on there a thermal pad
it’ll improve those thermals and it allow you to increase the power limit if
you wanted to boost the performance mostly the graphics performance so you
don’t have to do this model whatsoever if you don’t need to okay the thermals
are perfectly fine as they are out of the box so to open it up before we get
started you need to remove the two rear rubber feet because we actually have two
screws hidden underneath this so once you remove all the rear screws including
ones for the SSD hatch then you can lift the whole back off so the easy method of
this mod would be to just simply place a two millimeter thick thermal pad a nice
large one right here over the top of the chipset and just leave it at that that
will transfer I feel enough heat to the rear case to act as display a larger
heatsink enough to increase that power limit to nine or ten watts
now because we’re going to be touching around the circuit board it would be
wise to unplug the battery now which I’ve done right here as you can see so
just lift up that tape and then unplug that connector there now you will lose
any settings in your BIOS now lifting up that heatsink you can see there is the
Gemini Lake and all it had on top of it was just a very thin thermal pad which
is 0.5 millimeters thick so just cleaned up the top of the CPU die there as you
can see and I removed this zoom or pan as the stock one that was on top of the
heatsink that’s just off camera at the moment so you can use a 15 by 15 one
millimeter thick copper shim fine that I’ve got right here or 21 does it even
larger now yes you can see all those resistors around there that are very
close to that that could cause problems it could touch it could short but in my
experience I’ve been doing this for years that has never actually happened
to me because when you put the thermal paste on there and then you screw back
the heatsink it’s not going to move around it’ll be fine there if you are
worried about that then go with something that fits the die size
precisely so go for something like by ten millimeter one a millimeter thick
shim now I’ve placed a thin layer of thermal paste on top of the divers you
can see I just use some Noctua this is in th one you don’t have to use a super
high quality one because this is not a 65 watt disc top CPU in here this is a
six watt CPU and we’re going to only increase it probably to about 10 watts
and it will use 15 watts max so I’ve have spread it out as you can see with a
plastic bag so I just use my finger and a plastic bag here it’s just like the
begging myth that I think people call it just to put a real nice thin layer on
there you do whatever method you want there but this is what works for me now
I’m gonna place a copper shim on the top I’ve actually decided to go with a
larger size that I’ve used before in the past with good results so this one is 20
millimeters by 20 millimeters one millimeter thick okay so I just pressed
it down there is more or less centered there and now right in the middle of it
I’m going to place just a very small amount again of that thermal pace that
I’ve used and I have on the back of the copper
heatsink this is the stock one of course just cut out a wider gap here now
originally I’d made it for of course the 15 mil and then I had to increase that
for the 20 mil that size there so it’s just going to have flush contact then
with the factory copper heatsink yes it looks a little bit crude here but I mean
this doesn’t really matter and I’ve just spread out all over the top of the
heatsink that I placed there that thermal paste just evenly all over the
top you can just put a big blob on the top if you want I’ll do it however
method you want now to put the heatsink back on and make sure you put it on the
correct way and now I’m gonna place a two millimeter thick thermal pad on the
top here this is going to be transferring heat over to the rear the
bottom of the case of the laptop will get a little bit hotter now there should
be fine remember to plug that battery back in if you did unplug it place the tape of course back on top of
the plug – that’s just to keep it in place not that it would fall out and now
we need to put the lid back on so it’s gonna be a little bit harder to place on
but you just need to apply a little bit of pressure when you screw it back on
the more pressure the better on top of our copper heatsink bear all right I did
find this is like a little tiny sponge here this is to apply pressure on to
where the copper heat sink is remove this you’re gonna have to remove that
because now we’ve got a thermal pad in its place and here what we want to do is
go along and just where it says power limit one enabled just disable that
that’s disabling your power limit so I’ll use all the power at once but we
still need to run the software unlock method if you want the best gaming
performance here you see I have the power limit disabled so you go out of
the vials here you got to save it of course exit boot back into Windows okay
so an impressive result here I’ve got 83 frames per second and a very easy half
life lost coast video stress test you can get this off steam by the way for
free to try and compare the results here so max temperatures about 58 60 degrees
is what it’s going to reach at the moment the longer you play the hotter
it’s going to get but the same exact test when I did it with 18 watt power
limit with no copper heatsink mod it reached 93 degrees so you can see there
that the difference is absolutely massive when you do these mods and you
unlock the power limit you can almost double the framerate well not quite
double because before I got about 58 frames per second and now it is about 83
almost 84 and they’re looking at the difference it’s made with a game this is
Counter Strike global Offensive that when I tested this in my review was
getting about 30 frames per second and now we’re up about and did already up
about 20 frames per second temperatures are reaching however 70 degrees so it’s
still getting a little warm but this is so much cooler than having this stock if
this was stock it would be running as a thermal throttling 99 degrees now
without the copper heatsink mod and no power limit of course so thank you so
much for watching this copper heatsink mod the Teclast F7
Plus bye for now

32 Comments

  1. I don't get Chinese. They already do machines that have no alternatives from other major manufacturers and they do A LOT of things right yet they refuse to add a piece of metal that will improve thermals SIGNIFICANTLY. What is the logic here?

  2. It would have been better if you used thermal glue between the heatsink and the shim because thermal paste wont hold the shim in place indefinitely if you carry the laptop so its not safe.

  3. I would pay extra if manufacturer made this job in fabric for every passive cooled devices like this notebook or some kind 2in1 tablet.

  4. You could use all thermal pads if you can get some super high quality ones. I have access to thermal pads that have equivalent thermal conductivity to consumer grade thermal paste. Impressive stuff. And expensive.

  5. Great video mate, Could you do a video where you update the ssd? how can I transfer my windows to the new SSD in this teclast F7 PLUS

  6. You can do an layer of nail polish as a isolation on those resister around cpu. This is a common method used on liquid metal CPU

  7. Es excelente, pero la mía tiene un problema, no enciende aunque la batería esté bien cargada. La única forma de que encienda es conectado el cable de corriente y luego ya se puede desenchufar y usar con la batería.

  8. sorry for the inconvenience you could leave me everything you occupied it is difficult for me to understand it in the video I do not speak english.

  9. Any idea how large the original thermal pad is? I was considering replacing the existing one with perhaps one of higher quality. 🙂

  10. STATIC ELECTRICITY FEELING question: Hello guys 🙂
    While unscrewing the laptop, any static leak/contact spot to fix ??? (i haven't opened the case at all so far.)
    Description:
     I've received a gray F7plus device this week from Teclast official page in Aliexpress (manufactured jan 2019 – Pre-configured Win10 account set in March.). Everything seems opitimal no second-hand. ++HOWEVER, when plugin-in the charging cable, there is a light static feeling on the metal case (i suppose that's why the keyboard side is plastic).

    tkz xx

  11. How thick should be the copper shim? (.8/ 1.0 / 1.5 / 2.0mm?) and would you rather apply Grizzly Kryaunaut or Conductonaut ? tkx xx

  12. "Lower Temps Up To 25 Degrees C"

    Seriously EVERYONE who bought this should do it anyways, that's a pretty significant margin regardless if you plan to game or not. At worst, it'll prolong the laptop's life for sure.

  13. Hi, I have a problem with the Teclast F7 plus, before returning it I would like to know if someone has had the same thing. After a couple of weeks of use it happens that when I press the text on the machine starts but the display remains black, to solve the problem I have to connect the power cable. Can you help me?

  14. Great video. I was able to reduce temperature about 10 degree of Celsius only with 2 mm thermal pad between case and copper heat sink. You was able to reduce about 20 degree of Celsius with additional copper heat sink. But I think 1 mm thickness is to mach and can damage die. Maybe 0.5 mm would be better?

  15. Did this on my Core M3 earlier today, same passive cooling with a copper plate. Followed this video, but just went with a re-paste and a big old 1.5mm pad between the heatsink and the casing. Then went for a -70 undervolt on the cpu and -55 on the gpu (highest I could get to stay stable). Then moved up the TDP from 4.5W to 6W. A modest boost, but after everything is said and done I'm still at least 10-20 degrees lower on idle than I was when at 4.5 TDP. And light gaming has got an fps boost and still stays at 70 tops even while taxing the machine.

    Gotta say thanks to Chris for the videos, and replying himself on the forums with any questions I had.

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