Tiled Techniques Mokume Gane Cuff Bracelet-Polymer Clay Jewelry Tutorial

Tiled Techniques Mokume Gane Cuff Bracelet-Polymer Clay Jewelry Tutorial


It’s always so much fun to make veneers
out of polymer clay and to try out cool techniques but sometimes we need ideas
for what to do with them. Today I have for you a great bracelet project that
you can make using any polymer clay veneer you have in your stash or that
you’ve been wanting to try out. Hi there, Sandy here, welcome to another
polymer clay video at keepsakecrafts.net. I love the idea of making jewelry with
tiles and just having different things that you can string together to make
designs and like I said you can use any veneers you want mokume gane is a nice
one and if you want to learn how to make it I’ve done a video on it you can just
search it on youtube there are tons of videos out there showing you how to do
it. If you’ve been polymer claying for a while you may just have some mokume gane pieces in your stash that you don’t know what to do with. This is a
block that I had and I’ve cut a few slices off of it. I keep it stored in
this- this is press and seal and I love it. I have a box where I just have these
sheets stacked and I can just pull them out and flip through them and
that’s exactly what I did for this project and until I came across… flip
through them all until I came across one that I said- that’ll be pretty. I even used
the Press n seal just to store these temporarily on a tile because sometimes
my cats get a little too curious and I didn’t want to wake up with cat hair all
over my things, you know it’s probably inevitable, this will protect it some. So
here are a few slices that I cut from that block I just showed you, you’ll need
to decide how wide you want your tiles. I’m thinking for mine somewhere around
an inch and a half, you don’t really need much clay in order to do this project.
I’m going to alternate mine I’m going to have five slices of the mokume gane and
five of a texture- at least that’s what I’m guessing- you’ll have to do a little
experimenting to see how many you need to go around the wrist for your bracelet-
it’s going to be more than a bracelet measurement
because these are curved and they go down the wrist so the higher up on your
wrist you go the thicker it gets so the more around you’re going to need
to accommodate. So I’ll make a few extra. These are all the same thickness about
the thickest setting of the pasta machine which is around two and a half
millimeters. I like them thick, you could do them thinner but I kind of like
seeing the designs on the of the mokume gane on the edge but you could
definitely do a thinner veneer and I just cut slabs from my that block that I
showed you a moment ago- it’s about a 2 inch by 3 inch block and I’ve already
made some that are an inch and three-eighths wide so I want to get a
couple more that are that width so I’m just kind of laying them side-by-side
and trying to maximize my use – just a craft blade and an inch and
three-eighths… whew that’s close ok, and leave this one here at 3/8. I love
these little quilting rulers I first bought them for quilting because I
was a quilter for years but they are really great for polymer clay projects
and now I can butt that up – yeah not much to trim on this one –
you kind of want to just hold it down so it doesn’t slide on you, and I’ll save
these pieces you might have noticed them on the other tile. I have these little
thin pieces I’ll use them for things you can always just kind of layer them and
then reroll scraps. Next you want to decide how wide you want your tiles to
be, they don’t all have to be the same width you can make them any width you
want. I’m going to just cut a little bit down here I’m going to cut a square edge,
another way these rulers can be really handy because you can line that up and
then you’ll know you have a 90 degree cut and I’m going to cut mine about 3/4
of an inch wide but you do whatever looks good to you whatever is in
proportion to the veneer that you have, if you have a big pattern you might want
to make them a little wider. They can’t be ridiculously wide or
you’ll have a hard time fitting them around a bracelet – and you just carry on
like that cutting them then you just go across cutting as many as you need for
your project. I cut like I said about five, the next thing you’ll want to do is
pick them up with a blade and take a minute to soften the edges so I’m gonna
have just very light taps, so another thing you can do is is look at both
sides they’re similar but they are a little different,
see if there’s one side you like better. I think I like this side better it’s
got a little bit more going on, so back to shaping it just little just light
taps on the corner, corners to round them and just it
just gives it a bit more of a finished look. I’m not pressing hard I’m just
lightly tapping, and then kind of stroke or pet those cut
straight edges just on the top side it just softens them a little bit and I
think gives it more of a finished look rather than a cookie cutter look and if
these long edges have gotten wonky I’ll just tap them on my tile and try to
straighten them out. Now I’ve made tile bracelets before and you know I have a
couple and I don’t ever wear them, I think it’s because I don’t like the
straight, something about it I don’t care for, so to build in a little curve I just
have a bit of a toilet tissue roll I cut off maybe an inch and then flattened it
out and it’s just a very slight curve and I’m going to lay that on there and
make sure it conforms to the curve so you can see the difference – it’s a subtle
difference but I think you can see it. I think it matters between having those
edges softened and then just having them freshly cut, so once you’ve cut all your
pieces then you can go ahead and bake these. Here are a couple I baked earlier,
now we need to add the backing but first what you need is some way of holding the
stringing hole channels and I have discovered this stuff, it’s piano wire. I
found it a hobby store you know the type that sells stuff for model trains and
cars they sell this I got four one yard pieces for like $2 it’s very hard so
don’t use your nice jewelry wire cutters use a heavy pair or even a pair of
memory wire shears because it’s hardened wire and that’s why I like it for this
project because it’s not going to bend out of shape unlike craft wire. So you
can decide what you’re going to use for your backing now in addition to these
I’m going to have some solid covered beads with a texture in-between and I
decided to use this so I rolled out about a half a package of the Peimo
peacock pearl I actually think the color I used in here was sea glass but that
certainly goes well enough this is rolled out again on the thickest setting
of the pasta machine and I have a texture sheet here I don’t know if I
could find this anymore last time I searched for it I couldn’t find it I
think I found it I think I had it I had gotten it at Fire Mountain Gems and it’s
it’s listed like under stuff for metal clay but it’s a really nice kind of fine
texture but I’m sure I’ll find links to similar texture sheets that you can find
on Amazon. Kind of press that in there and then once I’ve got it pressed in
enough just gonna use my roller, I’m not rolling it so much as rubbing because I
don’t want it to shift I just want to get a nice deeply embossed texture and I
love adding just the spritz of armor-all to the clay rather than the texture
sheet because if it’s spread all over the surface of the clay then I know that
the release is everywhere I need it to be, so there there’s a nice texture and
you’ll cut out your tiles the exact same way using a ruler and a blade and cut
them out just like we did with these, you can cut them the same width, you can cut
them different widths. I cut mine all a little bit narrower and I cut more of
different sizes because I’m not sure what’s going to work to make this
bracelet fit so I cut seven and some from half-inch up to 3/4 of an inch,
place them on the curved form and bake them just like the other ones. So I think
this is gonna be really pretty having these alternating and I’ll probably do
some I’ll definitely do some some painting and such to kind of bring out
the texture – yeah that’s gonna be really nice I like that okay. So now I need to
add a backing, let me, I’ve done that on this one let me show you how to do that. Now we can add our backing again I have a piece of the Peacock Pearl rolled out
on the thickest setting of my pasta machine and it’s at least as wide as one
of these tiles it doesn’t have to be wider but at least as wide as one of
these tiles. I’m just going to add a little bit of texture to the back
because it’s just more comfortable to wear a polymer clay piece of jewelry if
there’s a little bit of texture I’ve found if you leave it untextured it
tends to be kind of sticky against the skin I’ve just found it uncomfortable so
even just a little bit this is just a green kitchen scrubbie which sometimes
leaves bits behind but that’s okay. All right, so I’m going to put one tile here
in the middle and just mark both ends I don’t know if you can see that if you’re
going to make wider tiles you might want to have three stringing channels but for
this I’m just going to do two I’m gonna kind of evenly space where I want my
stringing channels to be and really press that down in fact I’m going to use
my roller I want that completely pressed into that
clay because of course the back of this is already baked so there’s not going to
be any place else for those to go. Do make sure they’re nice and parallel – see
my markings for the top I don’t know if you can see those but I’m putting the
blade right on that actually just inside it is that one just inside. Now this is how
you would do this if this were your first tile batch of tiles, if you are
doing them all at once however I just remembered that I’m actually going to
make these match another group of tiles that I’ve already baked so I have to do
this a little differently, oops. That’s okay so if you have to do
them in batches like you probably won’t be able to do all of them all at once
there just isn’t enough length or enough room on a tile so I’m just gonna flatten
that a little and come in with my… I think I had one with yeah really long
and I left them long for this purpose because of course you want your stringing
channels to line up so I’m just kind of marking here these are pretty close but
obviously these don’t line up with the other ones there yeah centered and marked okay now I can
put those back in so if you’re going to be doing them in batches and not all at
once you’ll – I’ll show you more about I’ll
tell you more about this in a moment but what you’ll need to do is leave some of
them long so that you can use it as a guide to mark the position of your next
batch. Do your best to make sure they’re parallel so they’re same the same from end
to end. So many of you have told me that you enjoy my tutorials and that just
thrills me to pieces, if you’d like to get more of my tutorials my patrons
have the opportunity to get up to two bonus tutorials every month, you can go
to Patreon.com/sandysewin and see if it’s right for you. As you can see with
these ones that I’ve already done I cut short lengths of the wire because
it’s just a whole lot easier to deal with each bead with its own little bit
of wire rather than trying to fit a whole bunch onto these wires – so I can
just grab a pair of pliers give it a twist and pull them out of the ones that
are already done and I’m actually going to remove these just gently because it’s a whole lot easier to cut
these if you don’t have wire in the way, obviously. Now I’ve got my line here I’m
just going to cut right on that and repeat to cut as many as you need or
if you have narrow ones like these backing ones just you can just use those
as a guide if you have different size tiles. You’ll want to add a little bit of
liquid clay not too much, if you add too much it slides all over the place. I had
a couple I added too much and you really like the barest coat you almost
shouldn’t even see it after you paint it on it should be that thin. I’m going to
take my short little bits of wire and put it back in the channel on the
backing and yes. we’ve pressed out a good deal of the texture on the back but
that’s ok. I then lay this on the baked… whoops, front
portion make sure those stay where you want them. If you find that your backing is still
slipping around on you just go ahead and let it sit for like 10 minutes, the
polymer clay and the baked and the raw polymer clay and the TLS kind of get a
tacky bond as they sit – and you’ll notice that even though you cut your piece the
same length as your front it’s too long and that’s because of the curve this is
going to be this is the inner curve so it’s going to be a little long which is
why I said before that you didn’t have to make it any longer than the tile and
yeah I know… cut against your finger gently I’m
kind of cutting slightly at an angle here yeah just to trim those flush – take your
texture yes it’s still sliding I mean even though I applied the smallest
amount just go ahead and use that – again light taps and not a lot of hard pressure
just light taps on the corners and the edges – if you need to add more texture to
the center go ahead, just texture that and soften those edges
and then take your time and really make these each look nice. You can use your
blade up against the wires just straighten it back out, you can kind of
pinch with your fingers here if it’s spread a bit. I like to take the blade
and put it kind up against kind of up against the that baked edge and just
kind of press and bevel it slightly under. So take your time doing that until
it’s nice and neat because it’s not gonna get any better –
unlike a pan of brownies you know it’s not gonna get better with time in the
oven, you’re going to you’re going to get out exactly what you put in so just
make sure you you take your time and make it nice and bake these and what
you’ll end up with are tiles like these. Do the same thing for your other tiles your
yeah your alternate tiles and of course you could you could do them all the same
you don’t have to alternate but I think that is just a really pretty contrast
where we have visual texture with the mokume gane and actual texture which I
will probably add some Gilders paste and such. Here are my tiles out of the oven
and I’ve just started to do a test string I can see for example that this
one I think I’m going to need to swap around because I didn’t measure the
spacing of the holes precisely you may end up with some that have to be swapped
around in order form them to line up properly the rest look pretty good. I’ve strung this on some elastic I used one millimeter wires
as spacers for the holes and then I have 0.8 millimeter
elastic so that will fit fine. I wouldn’t go any finer than this I actually first
tried the point six millimeter and was not
impressed, it broke even as I was pre- stretching it whereas the point eight
seems to be holding together fine. You don’t have to use elastic if you don’t
want to you could certainly use a finding with a clasp in which case I
would make sure you have your finding first before you even start to put
together your beads have your findings so that you can space your holes
according to the finding – but I’m going to use elastic – but another thing to
think about with this kind of a design is what about making a neck piece
instead of a bracelet? That’s kind of pretty and this of course shows you all
sorts of possibilities for shapes they don’t have to be rectangles, they can be
triangles diamonds teardrops ovals whatever you want they would make a
really intriguing shape just put together this way with the channel on
one end you can have a really nice neck piece they don’t all have to be the same
size the same length the same width. I did make a few extras which was good
because this one isn’t cut quite straight so I was able to eliminate that.
I think for my final string I’m going to add some little tiny copper beads in
between each I think it will tie them all in together and make it fit just
about right. You’ll of course want to do a test fit but this seemed to work out
pretty well. One last thing kind of many of our least
favorite but sanding. I am going to sand the top of all of the mokume gane pieces
and the sides all four of these edges of all of my pieces. If you want to learn
more about these sanding pads I’ll have a link to Cindy Leitz, The Polymer Clay
tutor’s video where she shows how to make these and I have found this to be so
useful it’s made me actually do sanding on things whereas before I would have
avoided it. Once you’re done sanding all the way down you probably don’t have to
go to five thousand I think two thousand is probably fine this just happens to be
the grit that I bought it was an automotive sanding package of grits and
so I go down to this and then the final step is to buff it. If you have a dremel
that you can buff with that’s fantastic my husband gave me his to try out I’m
gonna have to do that soon but I found also with a piece of denim and some
serious elbow grease you can actually get a really nice shine on these and
then it’s a nice natural shine – it doesn’t look fake –
I guess gloppy like sometimes a brush on finish looks – I just don’t really care
for those looks and it’s always part of the polymer. So there you go I hope you
enjoyed this project and that maybe you’ll pull out some veneers from your
stash and make something beautiful for yourself or for a gift. Thanks so much
for watching, happy creating.

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